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Thread: Building a Javron Cub

  1. #2161
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    DJ - It was about mid range.


    A couple of more thoughts.....

    I added a Princeton Capacitance Fuel Probe to the fuel pod. This sends a quantity indication to my GRT (I'm pretty sure it would work with other Electronic flight displays like Garmin or Dynon). I tried this system in the wing tanks but it did not work well in that application. The tanks are too flat, the probe was only about 4". The fuel pod is deeper, the probe is about 9 " and seems to be working great so far. It is nice to have that input, rather than just relying on timing the pump.

    I rebuilt the oil cooler baffling, but did not have time to move the cooler off the rear baffling and to the front as I had originally planned. I tightened everything up, and used more 427 high temp sealant hoping for an incremental improvement. So far that seems to be the case. CHT's seem to be about 10 to 15 degrees cooler and should be adequate for another season.

    I had trouble with one of my mags during the test flying this last couple of weeks. Excessive RPM drop but not related to just one cyl. I did a lot of trouble shooting, but finally decided it was one of my Pmags. Turns out it was one that was under water so I'm sure it is not the fault of Emag Ignition. In fact I must say that Brad and company have been truly outstanding in their support and customer service. I highly recommend the product (Pmags) and the company. I am having both Pmags overhauled and also getting a new harness just to be on the safe side.


    This is the race from the main wheel on the floats. Two years ago it was new. Last year it had some very minor pitting but was still perfectly serviceable. This year the bearings and races from all four wheels are totally shot. If you have amphibs, you need to be doing a LOT of maintenance. I do not do salt water either, I can't imagine the wear and tear from that.

    I purchased a set of the Acme Aero Gen4 Black Ops shocks. I have not had a chance to try them yet. But here are a couple of weights for you.

    Bungee gear leg - 3.61 pds
    Die spring gear leg - 4.47 pds
    Acme Aero Blk Ops - 7.34

    So, from bungee gear to Black Ops will add 7.2 pounds. Can't brake if you are bouncing down the gravel bar so it will be worth it, but just wanted you to know.


    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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  2. #2162
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Bill, just curious what brand those races were?

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  3. #2163
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    Wheel bearings on amphibs are basically sacrificial.

    MTV

  4. #2164
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvivion View Post
    Wheel bearings on amphibs are basically sacrificial.

    MTV
    I got 10+ years out of the ones on my boat trailer?

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  5. #2165
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post



    Bill
    please note, the rust is not from USE or salt, but sitting basically in one spot for a long time.... just like dirty corrosive engine oil... best to change it and run it before parking it for a long while.....

  6. #2166
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Just saw MCS (Mikes) post above. He has it right. Don't let it sit.

    Glenn - Timken

    I doubt your boat trailer was in the water anywhere near as long as my floats were. Lets see....lets say you launch and recover 12 times a year. (summers are pretty short where you live). 5 minutes in the water for each event. That is 120 minutes per year in the water, so 2 hours a year x 10 years equal 20 hours. Round it up to get 24 hours, adds up to 1 day your trailer bearings were under water over a 10 year period.

    When the airplane is beached the main wheel bearings are under water, the nose bearings are in and out of the water. I would conservatively say my main wheel bearings were under water 120 days in the last two years. I have to agree with MTV on this one my friend. I think the key would be to repack the bearings as SOON as the "float season" is over, rather than letting them sit all winter. I have no doubt that contributed to this problem. Lesson learned for me.

    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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  7. #2167
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    Why I run CP bearings & races in mine and keep the axle cavity full of grease (via drilled axle and zerk) to keep the water out as best I can... and when I block her in the fall I pump fresh grease through to get all the wet goo stuff out. On year 13 with mine..
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  8. #2168
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post



    This is the race from the main wheel on the floats. Two years ago it was new. Last year it had some very minor pitting but was still perfectly serviceable. This year the bearings and races from all four wheels are totally shot. If you have amphibs, you need to be doing a LOT of maintenance. I do not do salt water either, I can't imagine the wear and tear from that.




    Bill
    In my experience a pit is reason for replacement because next time it is going to be trash. Have not seen one quite as bad as yours before but have seen some pretty nasty tail wheel bearings and races.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  9. #2169

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    I can’t imagine a worse bearing environment that my Go-Devil long tail mud motor had, hunted in semi-salty water for 12 years and never had a lower bearing or race failure. Always used Silkolene from my Enduro Motorcycle days... it’s nasty clingy to work with but is an amayzing product.

    http://www.silkolene.com/motorcycle/...ro-rg2-grease/
    Last edited by OLDCROWE; 04-30-2018 at 08:25 AM.
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!
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  10. #2170

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    Bill,

    Interested to hear your take on the Acmes. I didn't know there was a Acme Black Ops Gen 4 version. Thought Gen 3 was the latest?

    Andrew


    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    DJ - It was about mid range.


    A couple of more thoughts.....

    I added a Princeton Capacitance Fuel Probe to the fuel pod. This sends a quantity indication to my GRT (I'm pretty sure it would work with other Electronic flight displays like Garmin or Dynon). I tried this system in the wing tanks but it did not work well in that application. The tanks are too flat, the probe was only about 4". The fuel pod is deeper, the probe is about 9 " and seems to be working great so far. It is nice to have that input, rather than just relying on timing the pump.

    I rebuilt the oil cooler baffling, but did not have time to move the cooler off the rear baffling and to the front as I had originally planned. I tightened everything up, and used more 427 high temp sealant hoping for an incremental improvement. So far that seems to be the case. CHT's seem to be about 10 to 15 degrees cooler and should be adequate for another season.

    I had trouble with one of my mags during the test flying this last couple of weeks. Excessive RPM drop but not related to just one cyl. I did a lot of trouble shooting, but finally decided it was one of my Pmags. Turns out it was one that was under water so I'm sure it is not the fault of Emag Ignition. In fact I must say that Brad and company have been truly outstanding in their support and customer service. I highly recommend the product (Pmags) and the company. I am having both Pmags overhauled and also getting a new harness just to be on the safe side.


    This is the race from the main wheel on the floats. Two years ago it was new. Last year it had some very minor pitting but was still perfectly serviceable. This year the bearings and races from all four wheels are totally shot. If you have amphibs, you need to be doing a LOT of maintenance. I do not do salt water either, I can't imagine the wear and tear from that.

    I purchased a set of the Acme Aero Gen4 Black Ops shocks. I have not had a chance to try them yet. But here are a couple of weights for you.

    Bungee gear leg - 3.61 pds
    Die spring gear leg - 4.47 pds
    Acme Aero Blk Ops - 7.34

    So, from bungee gear to Black Ops will add 7.2 pounds. Can't brake if you are bouncing down the gravel bar so it will be worth it, but just wanted you to know.


    Hope this helps

    Bill

  11. #2171
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Andrew - ya might be right. It is the latest version whatever that is. Gen 3.... gen 4.........."220 - 221 whatever it takes".....LOL

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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  12. #2172
    cubpilot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDCROWE View Post
    I can’t imagine a worse bearing environment that my Go-Devil long tail mud motor had, hunted in semi-salty water for 12 years and never had a lower bearing or race failure. Always used Silkolene from my Enduro Motorcycle days... it’s nasty clingy to work with but is an amayzing product.

    http://www.silkolene.com/motorcycle/...ro-rg2-grease/
    This stuff sounds great.

    I know that we are all supposed to use "approved" lubricants but I know a guy, that knows a guy, that got really tired of replacing wheel bearings; especially on tail-wheels. Said individual will now only use the good old fashioned "boat trailer wheel bearing grease" on all bearings of his cub; packed tightly. His bearings and tail wheels life span increased amazingly. Doesn't work so good in really cold weather thou.....a-bit stiff.
    Ed
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  13. #2173

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    Jet boat drive bearings only survive because we pump grease through them at the end of every day it’s used. Stop doing that and you learn quickly how to rebuild the jet bearings on the riverbank. Sorta like trailer bearings with Bearing Buddy caps.

  14. #2174

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    Texas Refinery Corp. 880 C&C. Available at Reeves- after using this grease, we went from goodness knows how many bearing changes on the fleet of private and 135 planes we maintain, to maybe 2 a year- those usually on new planes not running this grease. Also may or may not have been used and recommended by a very reputable prop shop as being far superior to approved greases(aeroshell 5, 6, 22, etc.) for greasing Hartzell props...
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  15. #2175
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    For what it's worth.....my friend Mark (MMR) on the site (computer researcher extraordinaire) found the bearings, races and seals at half price for what I paid sourcing them locally. Go to Summit Racing for a much better price and free shipping for orders over 99 bucks. I've used them before and had great service. I paid about 470, Summit had them for 229. But sometimes ya need it now. Ouch....

    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  16. #2176
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    For what it's worth.....my friend Mark (MMR) on the site (computer researcher extraordinaire) found the bearings, races and seals at half price for what I paid sourcing them locally. Go to Summit Racing for a much better price and free shipping for orders over 99 bucks. I've used them before and had great service. I paid about 470, Summit had them for 229. But sometimes ya need it now. Ouch....

    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Summit's shipping is extremely fast, and reasonable

  17. #2177
    mvivion's Avatar
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    Has anyone tried to fit Aerocet’s sealed bearings to other amphibs? Size the same?

    MTV

  18. #2178
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Just a quick update. The annual condition inspection and all repairs, mods, etc were completed and we are already into the new season.



    Enroute through Montana. Dan Lilja met up with me and escorted me for a ways through his beautiful territory. Dan took this shot.


    I spent a little time in the Idaho backcountry. After flying into JC I spent a little time in the back seat of my friends Cub as we explored and played. The trip was too short to justify swapping from floats to wheels. I will head North to Alaska in a couple of days on floats. Lord willing I will head back to Alaska later this summer on wheels.



    Building is fun but so is this..........what it is all about. Using the Cub to go to cool places.


    Don't give up or quit guys........it is worth it.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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  19. #2179
    Lowrider
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    Bill,

    I see you're in the neighborhood at Felts. We're just over the hills at Sandpoint and also at Hackney North of CDA a bit. Great area for an airplane!

    Fly Safe!!
    Somewhere along the way I have lost the ability to act politically correct. If you should find it, please feel free to keep it.

    There are no new ways to crash an airplane no matter how hard you may try!
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  20. #2180
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Folks

    I hope to keep you builders (and everyone else) motivated. I was able to spend pretty much the whole month of June in Alaska on floats again this year. It just never gets old. I was also Blessed to have a few friends join me, with a special treat this year. The Cub is doing great. On the way home I climbed to 12.5K, on amphibs, loaded heavy, to get a smooth ride and tailwinds. Love that performance. The Supercub is an amazing airplane. A few pictures I hope you will enjoy.



    On Admirality Island at the Big Shaheen Cabin



    Jay DeRosier, owner at Javron, that made my kit, came up and spent a week. His third summer up there with me. Jay is a pleasure to fly with and a good man.



    Then, our resident Doc, that has helped so many people..... a great man and a good friend....... came up for a week of flying and relaxing.



    My special treat. Docs lovely wife Julie came up for a couple of days. I am privileged to say I gave her a tour of Misty Fiords, her first floatplane ride and water landing. She stayed with us in the SE Heckman cabin for a night. I think she enjoyed it, and maybe we can get her back next year for a longer visit.



    And my last guest for the season was Mark. He owns a carbon cub on floats and has done this trip in his cub. It was fun to fly together and swap notes and techniques. So three friends came up this year for about a week each. It was a privilege for me to share my Cub and this Alaska adventure with them all.



    Inside the Alexander Lake Cabin. A great cabin with a nice beach for the plane, and a great view.



    Swan Lake Cabin



    Taken at Walker Lake in Misty Fiords. Mark is fishing way in the background.

    It was a great trip this year. With the fuel pod I was able to fly non-stop from Washington to Ketchikan, overflying Canada, thus avoiding the customs hassles. It was a long flight, about 6 hours, but worth it. The weather was good this year....only a few days of low ceilings and rain. There really is not much new that you can't glean from my threads "Floats to Alaska -2016" and 2017, so I'm not going to do a whole thread.
    Here are a couple of short videos of the trip. I am still working on a video of my trip with Doc and Mark. I'll add those here when I get them done.














    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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  21. #2181

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    May the Bird of Paradise fly up your nose!

  22. #2182
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    Hope this helps

    Bill

    Well yeah!

    Give me another year, or maybe two....

    I was intrigued by the nonstop to Ketchikan. I hadn't thought about doing it that way. It's only 887 miles from where I live in SE Washington.

    Thanks for the dream material.

    Vic
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  23. #2183
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Had a fish spotter customer who would go birchwood to Washington?? direct if things went right. Belly tank, Atlee tanks, and? Made the Feds go hmmm. On wheels.


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

  24. #2184
    cubman's Avatar
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    Terrific Adventure!

    These are spectacular videos Bill. Thank you very much for helping keep me motivated. Jay certainly enjoyed the adventure. Can't wait to see the videos of the August trip up North.

  25. #2185
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    I am honored and humbled by the opportunity Bill gave me with the 7 days in SE AK. I will start a thread on the trip when I get the chance to edit some photos, as were it not for his kindness I would be looking at this thread dreaming about seeing this part of our Country.

    Here are a few...

    Motoring away from a cabin using Bill's amazing Suzuki boat motor. Amazingly small, fits nicely into the back of his Javron Cub.
    IMG_2379.jpg

    Does this man look relaxed, or what?!
    IMG_2388.jpg

    Bill reflecting on a days excursions into this beautiful area...
    IMG_2429.jpg

    Julie was treated to perhaps the most beautiful first float plane flight EVER. She loved it, shown here sporting her zip-off pants (she hates these things, but they are pretty nice when it gets hot, then cooler). Her first flight was touring Misty Fjords and the spectacular scenery near Ketchikan AK.
    IMG_2543.jpg

    Bill and Julie just before buttoning up the doors to fly back from the SE Heckman cabin back to Ketchikan.
    IMG_2563.JPG

    More to come...

    Thanks, Bill! And thanks, Jay, for the terrific kit you provided Bill.

    Randy
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  26. #2186
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    Fun to meet Bill and Doc Randy at PAGS, a real chance encounter. Gentlemen, the both of them. Hope to meet up again one day with some more time.
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  27. #2187
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Folks

    It took me longer than I anticipated but here is the video of my time in Alaska with our very own Doc. "Medical Matters" Randy Corfman. We had a great time this year, as always, and it was even better this year as his lovely wife Julie joined us for a couple of days.
    .......about 4 1/2 minutes long. I hope you enjoy






    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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  28. #2188

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    Bill, will you adopt me?
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  29. #2189
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Folks

    Although my CHT's are under 400 degrees about 98 or 99 percent of the time I am always looking for ways to improve things. Like a lot of homebuilders I used the Vans RV6 baffle kit. This is a good place to start with the baffling but it has a couple of things that don't seem to work so great on a slow Cub compared to an RV-XX going almost three times as fast.
    Here is a thread on a modification to the Vans baffling that helps.

    http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...ght=Bugs66+CHT

    Here are my notes and pictures on the same subject

    http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...l=1#post631215

    So.......here is another mod that might help your CHT's. The #2 cyl has very shallow fins on the front. In addition, it has a seam down the center of those fins that almost completely blocks airflow from the top half of the cyl to the bottom half (in the front). Vans baffles have a ramp that directs the airflow towards the top of the cyl and the baffle goes right up against the fins. Basically this prevents ANY air from going down around the front lower part of the cyl. Jay DeRosier advised me to drop the baffle to get slightly below the seam and also to move the baffle away from the fins and to have a gap in there. After I got back from Alaska, I have been pretty busy with work and life, but I finally had a chance to modify the #2 baffle to his recommendation. Flew it today and BAM!!! #2 cyl dropped 30 plus degrees without affecting the other cylinders. Prior to the mod #2 was always my hottest cyl by about 20 to 25 degrees. Fully leaned out (lean of peak) at 2400 RPM I would see something like 1) 349, 2) 376 3) 365 4) 364 with an OAT of 60
    After this mod I saw 1) 377 2) 365 3) 384 4) 385 again fully leaned out and now the OAT was 85 in the air and 95 on the ground. So #2 went from my hottest to my coolest



    In this picture you can see where I put a bend in the ramp to flatten it out and get it below the center line seam in the cyl



    This is pretty crude but it shows the gap (about 3/4") between the baffle and the cyl fins. Now that I know this works I will clean it up and make better baffles this winter, but it will have to work for my next trip. My #1 cyl has a HUGE ramp that covers most of the cyl and it still runs much cooler than #3 and #4 so this mod will not apply to my #1 cyl. Sometimes I think we make the baffle so tight to the cyls we don't leave enough room for the air. I understand the need to seal the top from the bottom to get differential but these two mods indicate that we also need some room around the baffles for the air to get in and around things.

    I will be the first to admit that the issue of baffles is "black magic" and what works for one engine has no affect on the next one. And I have played around a little and had some mods that did not work very well or had little affect. My plenum only gave a marginal improvement, but opening up the area behind #3 and opening up the gap in front of #2 seems to have helped me. Just thought I would pass it on for you to consider.

    Hope this helps

    On another note.......



    I have the Sandia Aerospace STX165 transponder. It needed service and the guys at Sandia were outstanding. They called it in warranty even though it is 2 years old, and even paid for the shipping. Very quick (which I needed) and always returned my calls etc. I was very impressed and recommend you consider this unit/company.

    I think the airplane is ready for the next adventure. I put the Acme Aero Gen3 Black Ops shocks on but I have not had much time to play with them to report the results. So far they seem to fit and work exactly as hoped for.


    Hope this helps

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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