Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 120 of 202

Thread: Stewart System Paint

  1. #81
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    chugiak AK
    Posts
    6,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Iflylower View Post
    Ok, how do you avoid it?
    no idea with water borne....

    with solvents based,.... don't over accelerate, and/or don't over thin(carrier)...??????

  2. #82
    MisterL19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Newburyport Ma.
    Posts
    8
    Post Thanks / Like
    ive been up north ski flying for the weekend, so ive been absent, the only thing i have a hard time understanding is if the water (thats the reducing agent) is whats trapped, how come the blisters only develope once they get rained on? remember, the topcoat is almost a year old prior to having been put outside in the weather. i really love the concept of this system, the glue and eco fill are great, and as previously mentioned, i love washing my gun in warm water at the sink, i need to find an answer before i continue though.

    p.s. does anyone know of any AWB-2500's for sale?

    talk soon
    steve noyes
    9788360361

  3. #83

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Millinocket,Me.
    Posts
    100
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ok guys, I have been avoiding responding to this thread because I have no experience with the water-born paint systems. However, I will offer some food for thought simply because I wonder if it has any bearing. I have considerable experience with Aerothane, Randthane, and Superflite paints. I can tell you that under the right conditions (humidity,temp, or what,I don't know), you can't keep a floor wet painting the solvent-based urethanes; they will absorb water as fast as you can put it down. If the paints you folks are talking about do that, how can you not have a lot of water contained in the paint as it attempts to dry? I don't know if it means anything or just continues to add unanswered questions to the problem. I look forward as most of you do to good answers because I would like to try some myself; but not yet. Reid

  4. #84

    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    25
    Post Thanks / Like
    Dave,
    How do you paint one side of something and not get lots of overspray on it when doing the other side. I saw them do that on the Superflite video and still haven't figured that out.

  5. #85

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    377
    Post Thanks / Like

    Rolling Stewart Systems.

    My apologies for the thread creep, but since this thread now seems to have everyone's attention I have a question.

    Has anyone here tried rolling SS top coat? Doug Stewart says it can be done, but he hasn't done it himself and can't really offer much advice. He says some of his customers roll on the ecopoly and get really good results.

    I kinda got the impression that it worked best in humid climates, he might have mentioned Missouri; that sounds a lot like the sort of climate we have here in Auckland.

    Any comments would be appreciated.

    I'm still at a bit of a loss at what causes the bubbling. Mike MCS and Steve P. keep coming up with hypotheses but nothing concrete seems to be floating to the top.

    I've found this thread very informative. I'll lap up anything new!

    Cheers,
    Andrew.

  6. #86
    d.grimm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    toledo, oh
    Posts
    415
    Post Thanks / Like
    Andrew,
    I had to do the interior fabric of a completed Vagabond and decided to roll the SS topcoats.
    I used a 4 in sponge roller and it came out great. I used the same mixing instructions as spraying.
    There are some pictures under the Steve's Skylight thread at www.Shortwingpipers.org
    Dave

  7. #87
    Hardtailjohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Marion, MT
    Posts
    341
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    no idea with water borne....

    with solvents based,.... don't over accelerate, and/or don't over thin(carrier)...??????
    The same holds true with Stewarts.... as well as don't try to put too much on at each coat! That's the biggest problem I have seen with people using it...and I'm right in there too....you can't hurry this stuff by putting on a heavier coat or playing with the mixture! Those directions are there for a reason...trust me, I know.

    140 Driver, the reason that I'd say it wasn't the paint's fault, is that if it was, then the whole area that was painted should be affected, not just a few small areas. Like Snowyriver said in the very next post, he knew he was going to have a problem there.... it only takes a little bit of contamination to show sometimes....such as a bare hand touching the surface, too much pressure when tack-ragging (I've seen that a bunch of times!), someone's sleeve brushing the surface, etc..... it can happen.

    As far as rolling it on, Dick Starks (of the Kansas City Dawn Patrol fame) used to have info on that on their website, and did an article that appeared in Kitplanes (if I remember correctly). He rolled it on his Taube and was very happy with the finish. I've seen a few samples of it being done, and I'd have sworn that they were sprayed! The only limitations I could see were around irregular areas (gear wells or something like, for example) where spraying should give easier coverage.

  8. #88
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    13,884
    Post Thanks / Like
    The Stewart manual I have gives the procedure for rolling on the finish coat.
    How do you paint one side of something and not get lots of overspray on it when doing the other side. I saw them do that on the Superflite video and still haven't figured that out.
    Best way I know ho is to paint a leading edge stripe. I have seen people tape a line on top at the leading edge of the wing as well. Hard to see since it is a high wing.

    As far as the bubbling etc. It appears to me that the atmospheric changes are affecting the top coat from underneath. I wonder if the bottom would do the same thing if it were flipped over. I speculate the finish was put on too thick or not enough time between coats and the moisture from the air and paint is entrapped. Moisture will attach itself to the paint as it leaves the gun and make the problem worse. Kinda thinking out loud here.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  9. #89
    jgerard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    894
    Post Thanks / Like
    Here are some websites with good info on the most common paint defects. It took about 5 minutes of googling to get these references. I think they cover a lot of important information that most guys never think about.

    http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/~/...Guide/tsg.ashx

    http://learnautopainting.com/auto-paint-repair/

    http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...PDSG_Home.html

    http://www.glasurit.com/en_UK/Servic...ects/index.xml

    I had a thought the other day that I wanted to share... why does nobody complain about how long it takes them to learn how to be a good welder but if the paint job goes south on the first or second attempt its the end of the world? I know I'm absolutly guity of feeling that way sometimes. And just to let everyone know I still have problems painting from time to time. And it's always because of something I did wrong.

    All paint systems are subject to issues of contamination, poor prep, and application error. The information shared on this thread is universal and I'm more than happy to do the best I can through emails and open discussions on threads like this. SC.org is lucky to have such a talented and experienced group of contributing member responding to this thread on painting.
    Diagnosing finish defects over the phone and through email is extremely difficult to do. The combined experience of those contributing here has helped to identify the most likely cause of these two different types of finish defects. Don's Cherokee has adhesion problems in localized areas and Steve's fabric aircraft parts have blisters in localized areas. The fact that they are different types of finish defects and are they occurred in localized areas and not the entire surface along with the fact that other customers using paint from the same batch did not have any problems is a real strong case for ruling out a problem with the product. If we concentrate on what factors contribute to blistering and loss of adhesion and the fact that both of these issues developed only after being exposed to 100% humidity and rain I believe we can formulate a theory of what combination of prep and application techniques contributed to the paint issues. Lets start with the blistering on Steves parts first. If everyone can use the links I included above for reference information or find more info on the web in regards to blistering I would like to hear some opinions. Steve and I have been communicating through email and have gone over many of the details in regards to his tools, setup, technique, and work environment so I it seems to me with the information that I have at this time his paint most likely was applied too soon between coats and sprayed on a little heavy - AND/OR - the environment he was painting in cured the surface of each coat to fast trapping moisture.

    It's real busy here at Stewart Systems today so I'll add more as I can later.

    Jason
    Last edited by jgerard; 03-22-2011 at 02:36 PM.

  10. #90
    jgerard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    894
    Post Thanks / Like
    When Painting the parts flat and one side at a time you have to think about the angle that your spray fan shoots across the surface. The first side you need to hold your gun slightly below the edge and shoot up at a slight angle so that there is a slight amount of over spray landing on the lower surface as you go around the edge of the part. Always go around the edge before painting the flat surface. The next day when you are ready to paint the other side of the part you are going to already have a few inches of paint past the edge and out into the open bay so now when you hold the gun and paint the second side you need to keep the gun above the surface and angle the fan so that the overspray goes past the edge and does not land on the side that you painted the day before. With waterborne paint you will not have a dry fog line at the overlap intersection around the perimeter. If you get over spray on the first side you'll have to let it cure and buff it out weeks later.

    You can roll it but I have no experience doing that either. It's going to be trial and error and you should practice different techniques before going after real airplane parts. We can point you in the right direction and describe what you should be looking for when rolling but you're going to have to practice and experiment.

    Jason

  11. #91
    dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    985
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Aeronca65ca View Post
    Well I don't really care what you believe I was just giving him a recommendation because if he has any problems with the paint laying down correctly it would be better to find it now than after he has the plane together. That is all. I wasn't saying anything else Steve just based on my experience with the product I would have liked to have found the problems prior to putting the plane back together so I could have repainted it.
    Aeronca65ca - DQ'd

  12. #92
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    chugiak AK
    Posts
    6,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by jgerard View Post
    .... why does nobody complain about how long it takes them to learn how to be a good welder but if the paint job goes south on the first or second attempt its the end of the world?...
    Jason
    great analogy....

    speaking of welding... my new welders rules are much different than how i learned 20+ years ago... some opposite!
    just because i could do it right on the old machines don't mean thats the right way with these new machines!!!

  13. #93
    Dave Calkins's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    4,685
    Post Thanks / Like
    me, me, me, me, I wanna be DQ'ed.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #94
    dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    985
    Post Thanks / Like
    We don't want to hijack the thread Dave, we'll deal with you later on the JC thread.

  15. #95
    SteveE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Jenks, OK
    Posts
    3,130
    Post Thanks / Like
    Gosh Dave,, that pic keeps showing up. IS that real,,, or did some ass photoshop it.

  16. #96
    Dave Calkins's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    4,685
    Post Thanks / Like
    I think some ass is hanging out in that photo.

    I also agree with Lodi Dave......some ass spends alot of time in photoshop.

    Also, some Aeronca guy is a bit deficient in the respect department. Thereby.....DQ'ed unless he can make a sufficient apology!

  17. #97
    snowyriver
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    121
    Post Thanks / Like
    On a last (?) comment, I just learned from Jason that you shouldn't use plastic to mask off over Stewart paint (any catylized paint). Apparently this is common knowledge but I didn't know. On my wings which I painted and put in a cradle, I draped plastic over them and it got up against the 2 day old paint in some places and stuck (bonded). When I noticed it a month later and removed it there was a cloudy area on the paint that you could see but not feel. I'm guessing that it won't buff out. So...no plastic! Craig

  18. #98

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Valdez, Alaska
    Posts
    501
    Post Thanks / Like
    Snowy...you serious.my wings have been covered with 3 mil vis for months...never read that anywhere? fuse is also covered in plastic now...painted it a week or two ago...
    Kids are worth WHATEVER it takes!---Spence Rogers

  19. #99
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    chugiak AK
    Posts
    6,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by snowyriver View Post
    On a last (?) comment, I just learned from Jason that you shouldn't use plastic to mask off over Stewart paint (any catylized paint). Apparently this is common knowledge but I didn't know. On my wings which I painted and put in a cradle, I draped plastic over them and it got up against the 2 day old paint in some places and stuck (bonded). When I noticed it a month later and removed it there was a cloudy area on the paint that you could see but not feel. I'm guessing that it won't buff out. So...no plastic! Craig
    back when I started out learning, it is quite sad to go to assemble your project and find all those pieces you finished, and stacked touching each other have now bonded themselves together where they touched, and it pulls off right down to raw fabric......(this was durathane, like the old superflite)

    I am also leery on plastic,(will imprint/pattern where it touches if left long) or any thing on fresh paint, since most polyurethanes are still curing and getting all their good traits for like a month....(even longer if you shoot in cold area, or reused paint you put in freezer)

  20. #100
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Brooklyn, Wa
    Posts
    1,950
    Post Thanks / Like
    The Stewart manual sez do not mask with plastic, in the masking for trim section. It also sez to allow at least 24 hours from painting to putting tape on. I got away with 18 hours, so was able to finish painting my wings on Sunday - - -
    Gordon

    N4328M
    My SPOT: tinyurl.com/N4328M (case sensitive)

  21. #101
    snowyriver
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    121
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nope. I wasn't kidding. Apparently that info is not in the viseos. I don't have a manual. Jason told me that it is "common knowledge". Wasn't to me. Luckily I just have several small places on the top of one wing where it tried to bond. It looks kind of milky and you can't feel it. I wonder if it will buff out. J5Ron, I hope you luck out and I'd get that plastic off there ASAP.




















    Apparently

  22. #102
    Iflylower's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    1,259
    Post Thanks / Like
    I don't know how plastic does what it does, but it's not good. I taped a 5 year cured wing to do some touch up on the leading edge, and there were milky marks where the plastic touched the wing. WAS NOT Stewarts, but I learned my plastic lesson. Not cool. Yep, I've heard common knowledge. Wasn't to me at the time. Paper now.
    If you're lucky enough to fly, you're lucky enough

    "There are three things in life that people like to stare at: a flowing stream, a crackling fire and a Zamboni clearing the ice." Charlie Brown

  23. #103
    Iflylower's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    1,259
    Post Thanks / Like
    I would love a tips n tricks video from Stewarts. Probably not their responsibility, but I watched the vids a few times and still managed to "paint" myself into corners with questions.

    Ie.
    Covering difficult profiles
    Alternate fuel tank bay solutions - I've heard cover, paint, cutout and cutout, tape, paint
    How to handle top wing pulley
    How to double wrap leading edge - two piece your wing - main, then full aileron out to wing tip. Etc.
    ... And many others I can't remember.
    If you're lucky enough to fly, you're lucky enough

    "There are three things in life that people like to stare at: a flowing stream, a crackling fire and a Zamboni clearing the ice." Charlie Brown

  24. #104
    Hardtailjohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Marion, MT
    Posts
    341
    Post Thanks / Like
    With new paint (especially, but even paint that's not quite so new) there are fumes exiting. This is called "gassing out", and if you cover that with plastic, they can't escape....so they are trapped and react with the surface they're covering. Paper wont do that, as it "breathes" a little. It doesn't matter what brand of paint, but some take a bit longer to completely "gas out" than others. If you really want results, roll them out into the sunshine while still covered with the plastic.....

  25. #105
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    chugiak AK
    Posts
    6,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by snowyriver View Post
    .... I don't have a manual. ......
    and how can you sign it off that you did it in accordance with the stc, following the instructions ??????????

  26. #106
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Brooklyn, Wa
    Posts
    1,950
    Post Thanks / Like
    The manual is online, on the Stewart's website. And the back portion of it is Tips n Tricks - not part of the "official, approved" document, is what I'm guessing - -
    Gordon

    N4328M
    My SPOT: tinyurl.com/N4328M (case sensitive)

  27. #107
    aktango58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    18AA
    Posts
    6,137
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mike,

    Cal is non-certified!

    Jason: bad analogy I think... I can cover my gorilla weld(strong but(t) ugly) with paint, but try covering paint with a weld!!!!!!

    Just run your weld through the swamp, and it is out of sight and hidden in dirt...

    But put your wing tip through the brush to hide the ONLY dust flake on the plane and all you get are more imperfections!

    So maybe, the solution is to hire a profesional... er, perfesional... um xpert and not be so critical!
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!

  28. #108
    Iflylower's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    1,259
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey George, mike's comment was not directed at me... I have two manuals and I use them, with notes in them too. And, I carry them on trips for reference and planning.




    Quote Originally Posted by 12 Geezer View Post
    The manual is online, on the Stewart's website. And the back portion of it is Tips n Tricks - not part of the "official, approved" document, is what I'm guessing - -

    Tips n tricks are not in the printed manual that I'm looking at. Online they are mostly hints to oil the inside of your frame. The Stewarts vids are outstanding, I just was able to come up with some Q's not covered and learned the hard way. The resin I suggested it as tips n tricks are the methods would not be stc required just a good idea.

    Another suggestion for tips n tricks is a quick primer on staggering knot and rib lacing. I got it now, but reviewed it on YouTube from someone else. God bless YouTube.
    If you're lucky enough to fly, you're lucky enough

    "There are three things in life that people like to stare at: a flowing stream, a crackling fire and a Zamboni clearing the ice." Charlie Brown

  29. #109

    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    2
    Post Thanks / Like

    Thumbs down Paint is a nightmare to use

    I am in the process of painting aluminum spars from a boat. Have always used traditional marine solvent based polyurethanes. Thought I would give the Stewarts Systems products a try due to the water based low VOC benefits and the great durability I have read about. Boy what a huge mistake. I started spraying the product with a turbine driven HVLP system as I don't want to buy all new equipment just to use this product, paint runs like crazy. The runs do not cure and are impossible to knock down smoothly with sandpaper. I am only painting a 13 foot boom and it took me hours of hand sanding just to get the primer coat fair enough to consider top coating. I mixed the paint by volume, don't want to and never have had to buy a digital scale to weigh any paint I have ever worked with in the past. Followed the instructions to the letter as the spar is oval shaped have to turn it during the spraying process and once again runs all over. Once again after hours of hand sanding to try and get the surface fair I am completely gun shy of ever spraying the paint again. I attempted to roll the spar with a high quality foam pad, this time the result was horrible orange peel.

    The following are my observations about this paint.

    1 It is very finicky and unless you have absolutely perfect conditions and the exact reccomended equipment you will end up with poor results.

    2 Very expensive, I have spent almost $300.00 to paint a 13' x 4" boom and I still have to re-do the job.

    3 Poor coverage, after multiple coats primer is still showing through top coat.

    4 Judging by all the problems I have read about other people trying to apply Stewarts Systems paint, my instincts are that the bugs are not worked out of their water delivered finishes. Will not be using these products again in the future.
    Last edited by seaburger; 07-29-2011 at 05:52 PM.

  30. #110
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    chugiak AK
    Posts
    6,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    wow, great first post!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by seaburger View Post

    I didn't follow any of the directions, and it didn't work!

  31. #111
    Bugs66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Spokane WA
    Posts
    2,193
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have seen orange peel on Stits, factory cars, various 2-part solvent paints. The turbine gun is the first mistake I see. That is not following directions to "letter". Most folks I see who have the most trouble with Stewarts paint are the experienced solvent paint dudes. Time to learn a new process and forget old habits. Sorry you had trouble. I would talk to Jason for advice.
    Last edited by Bugs66; 07-29-2011 at 07:49 PM.

  32. #112
    Hardtailjohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Marion, MT
    Posts
    341
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'll second what Buggs66 said!!! You DID NOT follow the directions...from what I read, you refuse to follow any of them to the letter.. amazingly enough, having used this system since the 90's, and having taught people how to use it since then... the ones that have problems are the ones that refuse to realize they don't know how to apply it! Too bad you have to come on with your first post and slam a product that you refuse to use properly. It's a great product for people who choose to use it properly.
    John

  33. #113

    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    2
    Post Thanks / Like
    As I said in the original post with the exception of using my turbine HVLP system and mixing by volume (Described in the instructions) I did follow the directions. I shouldn't have to spend hundreds of dollars to buy a compressor driven system and Delvillbiss gun to shoot a particular paint. Considering I have been able to fine tune the turbine to get excellent results with other products, I thought that I would be able to do the same with the Stewarts, (Case in point the post about using a Wagner sprayer).

    I just finished rolling the finish on for what ammounts to the eighth attempt with the highest quality foam roller and a technique that has yielded superior results in the past with other products, once again more orange peel. The problem is the paint has poor flow out and leveling properties as well as horrible covering characteristics, primer is still showing through, (Coverage has nothing to do with technique).

    As far as slamming the Stewarts Systems products when you have invested as much money and time as I have for such poor results, I feel ripped off. I maintain my position that this paint and primer is very finicky to apply in all but a perfect and ideal conditions, (How often is the average person going to be able to obtain that).

  34. #114
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    chugiak AK
    Posts
    6,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by seaburger View Post
    As I said in the original post with the exception of using my turbine HVLP system and mixing by volume (Described in the instructions) I did follow the directions. I shouldn't have to spend hundreds of dollars to buy a compressor driven system and Delvillbiss gun to shoot a particular paint. Considering I have been able to fine tune the turbine to get excellent results with other products, I thought that I would be able to do the same with the Stewarts, (Case in point the post about using a Wagner sprayer).

    I just finished rolling the finish on for what ammounts to the eighth attempt with the highest quality foam roller and a technique that has yielded superior results in the past with other products, once again more orange peel. The problem is the paint has poor flow out and leveling properties as well as horrible covering characteristics, primer is still showing through, (Coverage has nothing to do with technique).

    As far as slamming the Stewarts Systems products when you have invested as much money and time as I have for such poor results, I feel ripped off. I maintain my position that this paint and primer is very finicky to apply in all but a perfect and ideal conditions, (How often is the average person going to be able to obtain that).
    simply amazing....

    you once again refuse follow the directions, and are baffled that it does not work!!!!!

    I doubt anyone will be able to ever help you.... since you will not follow the basic directions....

  35. #115
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    3,816
    Post Thanks / Like
    1/ You need to use a light colored primer to get the top coat coverage.
    2/ What was the temperature when you were doing the application? It must be 70 degrees minimum, hotter is better. Then you will get the flow out. Otherwise it will be as you describe.
    N1PA

  36. #116
    snowyriver
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    121
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well, I bought the $160 gun they reccomend and used my Lowe's air compressor. I have little or no paint exp. I followed the directions to the letter and it might have been 70 degrees in my booth but I doubt it. I had amazing results, not perfect but very nice. Technique has everything to do with coverage. Before I broke my wing into "10 minute paintable" areas I went longer than ten minutes and had some minor peel. Using a watch fixed this. Clean up was easy, customer service was great and I saved money over what I would have spent had I used PPG. I'll use it again. My .02 Craig

  37. #117

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    482
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you want to know how well the paint works ask 5 rivers

  38. #118
    fobjob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Salt Lake City, Utah
    Posts
    1,516
    Post Thanks / Like
    I can't find the dang .pdf file I was reading about this, but it would appear that solvent (water) entrapment can be prevented by ensuring proper air circulation within the paint booth, to allow drying of the water before the paint starts to skin over....

  39. #119

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,469
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sort of a change of subject, but worth the comment. I have been doing minor repairs using Stewarts glue and Ekofill. I always have a test panel handy, and the other day glued one tape with Super Seam Cement, another with Stewarts. The difference in pull strength is noticeable. Stewarts won hands-down. Then I took the pulled Stewarts tape, and ironed it back on an area of dried glue, and pulled it immediately. Double the strength of the plain old dried overnight Stewarts.

    The Ekofill seems to sand better than the butyrate silver. I get my pinked edges disappearing rather quickly.

    I have not the personality nor the equipment to spray the finish coats, but my buddies are laying in the factory spec gun and compressor, and both do have the personalities to precisely measure materials and time. I will be watching with a Sam Adams in hand, and will report.

    'Till then, my patches have all survived with solvent based spot-finish.

  40. #120
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    chugiak AK
    Posts
    6,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by fobjob View Post
    I can't find the dang .pdf file I was reading about this, but it would appear that solvent (water) entrapment can be prevented by ensuring proper air circulation within the paint booth, to allow drying of the water before the paint starts to skin over....
    have not tried it yet..(but have some now to play with ).......

    but I was thinking just the opposite..... to much airflow/heat will skin a paint.... which is what I use with dopes/normal paint when I have an OH SH1T moment that's about to sag or run... I hit it with just air.....

    but like I said, never tried yet.. just thinking out loud....

    good jason question!

Similar Threads

  1. Stewart system
    By Grizzley in forum Tips and Tricks
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 03-15-2011, 10:29 AM
  2. Stewart's system tips
    By cgoldy in forum Experimental Cubs
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-17-2010, 06:31 AM
  3. Stewart System
    By Roger Peterson in forum Cafe Supercub
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-16-2010, 06:23 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •