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Thread: tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

  1. #481
    jimboflying's Avatar
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    I wanted to make the birdcage channel to be formed like a nose rib in the front. I first made a 3/8" plywood rib form. Then I made a forming tool to support the sides to prevent buckling as it bent while I formed the curves required . I then found that the leading edge was sharper than my forming roller so I made a 3/8" thick plate to form the leading edge area that would support the inside of the curve. Some forming and clamping was required but the combination worked out fine.
    DSC00665.jpg

  2. #482
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    So what do you do with an old roof top luggage carrier that nobody wants, has a broken hinges and is missing a key? You re-purpose it to being a sandblasting cabinet. Works great and didn't cost a dime!

    Marty57

    sandblast1.JPGsandblast2.JPGsandblast3.JPGsandblast4.JPG
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  3. #483

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    I found this neat tool to tighten the knurled nuts on P&B circuit breakers. Comes in two sizes the 5/8" version works great. Available from music stores on eBay, used for replacing the toggle switches on electric guitars.

    IMG_3801.JPGIMG_3844.JPG

  4. #484
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    OH! New toys! For years I've been swapping out the knurled nuts for hex.

    Web

  5. #485
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerodon View Post
    I found this neat tool to tighten the knurled nuts on P&B circuit breakers. Comes in two sizes the 5/8" version works great. Available from music stores on eBay, used for replacing the toggle switches on electric guitars.

    IMG_3801.JPGIMG_3844.JPG
    got a link to auction, or a better description/search term for finding it on ebay please

  6. #486

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    Here's the one I bought, can't find any more on eBay. Maybe ask that seller if he has more.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/122025647062...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Or google the part number, it is available from other suppliers: LT-4200-000

  7. #487
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    https://www.stewmac.com/Cart

    Check out the tools available here. Look at tools/wrenches especially for jack installation.

    Web

  8. #488
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  9. #489
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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  10. #490
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerodon View Post
    I found this neat tool to tighten the knurled nuts on P&B circuit breakers. Comes in two sizes the 5/8" version works great. Available from music stores on eBay, used for replacing the toggle switches on electric guitars.

    IMG_3801.JPGIMG_3844.JPG
    thanks again for the post...

    got mine in the mail today,

    well built, well worth the cost!!!

  11. #491
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Just got mine today, also. Agree 100%. Much more sturdy construction than I expected.

    Web

  12. #492
    180Marty's Avatar
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    I just made this oil seal stretcher for a Lycoming. My split seal blew out the other day even though when I applied air to the breather, the loose dip stick rattled. All the mechanics around here use the split and don't have the official tool. I used an old exhaust clamp from a 5 inch semi system that I had to tweak a little and then welded a piece of 4130 tube I had laying around. It worked good and can't imagine using screw drivers.20160912_142412.jpg20160912_142405.jpg

  13. #493
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    Here's a neat trick for making floor board pattern. I use strips of thin Luann ply and a glue gun to make patterns; very quick and simple. More details on another post. http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...l=1#post668997

    Marty

    IMG_7228.JPG
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  14. #494
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    Same technique used to make stone countertops. It has several uses.

    Nowadays they do it with dots and a computer.
    Eddie Foy
    "Put out my hand and touched the face of God"

  15. #495
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty57 View Post
    Here's a neat trick for making floor board pattern. I use strips of thin Luann ply and a glue gun to make patterns; very quick and simple. More details on another post. http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...l=1#post668997

    Marty

    IMG_7228.JPG
    neat
    I'm more a poster board and tape and long stapler kinda guy....

    a tree does die when i make a plane,

    everything gets made of poster board as a pattern at least once, before i cut the expensive stuff...

    I buy 30 sheets at a time

  16. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lefoy84 View Post
    Same technique used to make stone countertops. It has several uses.

    Nowadays they do it with dots and a computer.
    Yeah, that's where I first saw the idea; when they installed our new counter tops.

    Mike, I use lots of poster board also ..... I get mine free at Costco. The cardboard between layers of boxes at Costco is great stuff and free when it's at top of pile.

    Marty
    N367PS
    Psalm 36:7 "High and low among men find refuge in the shadow of His wing"
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  17. #497
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    I wanted to bend some thicker material so I found a DIY 20 ton press brake kit at Swagoffroad.com and welded it up. It looks good and is rated to bend up to 5/8" steel. They also sell other kits and products that I have been happy with.
    FullSizeRender.jpg

  18. #498
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimboflying View Post
    I wanted to bend some thicker material so I found a DIY 20 ton press brake kit at Swagoffroad.com and welded it up. It looks good and is rated to bend up to 5/8" steel. They also sell other kits and products that I have been happy with.
    FullSizeRender.jpg
    reasonable prices, and looks like some of them ship in flat rate boxes, which is a huge deal coming to AK

    might have to add them to the wish list, already have one of those baby presses..

    http://swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Press-Brake-Kits_c_53.html

  19. #499
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    This looks cool. It's basically a router that uses machine vision to make minor adjustments to the spindle along the x, y and z axes. Might be usable on thin aluminum for interior panels, baffling, etc. Not available for purchase yet.

    https://shapertools.com/#Origin


    Origin enables more precise cuts by automatically correcting or retracting the tool’s bit if the machine strays from the designated cutting path.

  20. #500

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crash View Post
    You did the one thing I regret not doing on my last project. I missed the heat shrink. Every time I try to slide my wing covers on I'm reminded as they hang up on the little porcupines the cable tails have become. Usually get frustrated and give them a jerk, which then tears a hole in them, which raises the ole "stress level" a little higher. All for lack of 50 cent piece of heat shrink.....
    You can use self-fusing silicone rescue tape (like this) to wrap the ends where you "forgot" to use the shrink wrap. It fuses to itself very nicely, and will protect your wing covers. Available in many colors on Amazon and elsewhere.
    Jim Parker
    '65 Champion 7ECA - Flying
    ?? Bearhawk Patrol - Building

  21. #501
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    Great idea Jim! I was just kicking myself over that this weekend.

  22. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimParker256 View Post
    You can use self-fusing silicone rescue tape (like this) to wrap the ends where you "forgot" to use the shrink wrap. It fuses to itself very nicely, and will protect your wing covers. Available in many colors on Amazon and elsewhere.
    does that tape need to be heated to fuse?
    If you force it, it will fit

  23. #503

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    No. The layers of tape on the roll are separated with a 'peel ply' layer. As you unroll it, you peel that back. You stretch the tape, and lay it on top of itself. It bonds quite well. The harder you stretch it, the harder it bonds - up to a point. They say you can wrap it around leaking pipes and it will contain the leak. Haven't tried that yet. One of the best things is that this tape leaves nothing behind when you remove it — I usually cut it, because I can't unwind it once it bonds. The only downside (besides being a bit pricey) is that since it only binds to itself, you can only use it where you can "wrap" the installation area.
    Jim Parker
    '65 Champion 7ECA - Flying
    ?? Bearhawk Patrol - Building

  24. #504

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    All right here is an idea, not yet a tip since I have not tried it but that tape gives me this idea for repairing hydraulic hoses temporarily without removing them:
    1-Put a long one layer wrap of that tape over the rupture extending as far as possible past the area in both directions after cleaning. 2-Wrap as tightly as possible the tape with piano wire, guitar string, or maybe mig wire, getting the coils as close together as possible but trying to sink them into the tape AND leaving just enough room between the coils for the inner tape to pucker up just a bit to bond to the next step.
    3-Wrap an outer layer of tape to fuse to the inner layer and for low pressure your done. For higher pressures add more layers of wire alternating with layers of tape.

    Anyone think that could work for a very temporary repair?? Every summer I always break a hydraulic hose or two on my old case hoe while I'm out in my woods usually in a very inconvenient place to leave the hoe until I secure a replacement.

  25. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by qsmx440 View Post
    All right here is an idea, not yet a tip since I have not tried it but that tape gives me this idea for repairing hydraulic hoses temporarily without removing them:
    1-Put a long one layer wrap of that tape over the rupture extending as far as possible past the area in both directions after cleaning. 2-Wrap as tightly as possible the tape with piano wire, guitar string, or maybe mig wire, getting the coils as close together as possible but trying to sink them into the tape AND leaving just enough room between the coils for the inner tape to pucker up just a bit to bond to the next step.
    3-Wrap an outer layer of tape to fuse to the inner layer and for low pressure your done. For higher pressures add more layers of wire alternating with layers of tape.

    Anyone think that could work for a very temporary repair?? Every summer I always break a hydraulic hose or two on my old case hoe while I'm out in my woods usually in a very inconvenient place to leave the hoe until I secure a replacement.
    Keeping 45psi water in a pipe I think is doable, keeping 3000+ psi oil in a hose/pipe please take pictures.
    What ever you do don't put your finger over a hydo spray leak if you like to pick your nose.

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  26. #506
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    That silicone tape is handy. They make a clear version that I imagine could work really well on a cracked pitot line.

  27. #507

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    As Glenn pointed out, they claim it will work fine for water lines and even low-pressure oil lines as an "emergency only" fix. I would not use it on hi-pressure hydraulic lines, or fuel lines, even in an emergency. I do carry a roll of it in my "emergency tool kit".
    Jim Parker
    '65 Champion 7ECA - Flying
    ?? Bearhawk Patrol - Building

  28. #508

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    I just bought 4 rolls of clear, after reading an article in Kitplanes about it. Have yet to use any, but will keep it handy.from now on, both in the plane and the crane, "emergency use only". The next time I reach for a tie wrap for misc. securing of whatever, I'll try to think of using the tape instead. Can't believe it wasn't already on my radar.

  29. #509
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    Found this on eBay.......search Handee Clamp.Could be handy when fingers or needle nose pliers won't fit.
    IMG_0557.JPGIMG_0556.JPGIMG_0558.JPG
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  30. #510
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    I made this angle gauge holder to use on my lathe and tubing bender. The Wixey digital angle gauge is nice and compact and reasonable in price. Some of the specialty tool places sell a "V" attachment holder for around 65 bucks. I made this one out of floor sweepings.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  31. #511

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    I have a store bought thingie similar to that, but it also has spring loaded punch. I use it for pipe fitting, when I want to mark the pipe at whatever angle needed. You pre load the punch with it's spring, then when you get it exactly where you want it, (magnetic base, handy) you push a button and the punch fires.

  32. #512
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    This is a nifty tool for cutting 3-1/8" instrument holes. The square block is centered over the desired location in the panel, and a hole is drilled through the middle bushing. An extra-long cleco holds the block in place while the 4 corner instrument holes are drilled. The block is removed, and the fly-cutter drops into place. It leaves a nice clean hole if you keep the cutter sharp. This tool belongs to a friend who is trying to figure out where it came from. He's looking for the 2-1/4" version. Any guess as to who made it? No markings anywhere on the tool.


    IMG_8572.jpg

    IMG_8575.jpg

  33. #513
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fancypants View Post
    This is a nifty tool for cutting 3-1/8" instrument holes. The square block is centered over the desired location in the panel, and a hole is drilled through the middle bushing. An extra-long cleco holds the block in place while the 4 corner instrument holes are drilled. The block is removed, and the fly-cutter drops into place. It leaves a nice clean hole if you keep the cutter sharp. This tool belongs to a friend who is trying to figure out where it came from. He's looking for the 2-1/4" version. Any guess as to who made it? No markings anywhere on the tool.


    IMG_8572.jpg

    IMG_8575.jpg
    very interesting looking... would be a fun project to make some.... but then again, individual round holes are kinda phasing out, this current project only has a single small hole for a backup compass.... everything else is displayed in the rectangle GX3.....

    but that doesn't mean i wouldn't make me one just as a fun project... maybe use an annular cutter(my new favorite tools)

  34. #514
    jimboflying's Avatar
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    What do you use annular cutters for?

  35. #515
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    Perhaps for something like a backup ring under an inspection cover? Or a doubler behind a round hole in sheet aluminum? Mike???
    Gordon

    N4328M KTDO
    My SPOT: tinyurl.com/N4328M (case sensitive)

  36. #516

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    I redid the panel on my experimental a couple years ago, doing away with ALL the round steam gauges (Hobbs meter is now the only round gauge, even it's function is now duplicated by my GRT EIS, but i had too many hours on it to lose those bragging rights). When I was laying out the new CF panel, it occurred to me that the 2 large rectangular holes I had to cut for the EIS and the GRT MINI was going to be a piece of cake. Best of all, I later figured out (when I had to get back behind the panel) by removing the MINI (4 machine screws, self tapped into the CF, as an experiment, no nut plates etc. 600 hours later and several uses they are holding fine, saved a little weight!) I now had an access hole big enough to reach into, a real handy feature. Just something to keep in mind if laying out a new style panel, your wazoo e display can also be a great access point IF you ever need to get back in there, in my case it sure beat laying upside down under there.

  37. #517
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimboflying View Post
    What do you use annular cutters for?
    they sell little ones as "rota broaches" for sheet metal nice clean fast holes.... and mag drills use them..

    just got a bigger set and love them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0128TPLLS love them have arbors for my lathe and mill...

  38. #518
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    I love annular cutters and rota broaches. They make genuinely round holes.
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  39. #519
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    Anyone know how to permanently join epoxy fiberglass parts together with good strength afterwards?

  40. #520
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    Jimbo, both iTW Plexus and Weld-on make structural adhesives. For plexus, MA-300 is a common all purpose adhesive that will bond two pieces of fiberglass together, and the glass will break before the adhesive will.
    The adhesive creates substantial heat in the curing process, so using the proper amount is fairly important. (Enough to create a proper chemical reaction to cure, and not so much as the adhesive boils and causes an air void). We use it a lot and it works well.
    Weld-on is perhaps a more tolerant product to boiling, but we find plexus more readily available from distributors.

    Peter


    Sent from my imitation glass cockpit using SuperCub.Org mobile app
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