mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
I Like it! might have to make something like that.....
got me thinking now.... maybe based off a vise grip....
tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff
- Thread starter mike mcs repair
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I Like it! might have to make something like that.....
got me thinking now.... maybe based off a vise grip....
flybynite
FOUNDER
Eagan, Minnesota
Woodenboat magazine had one a number of years back that used a vise grip. It used a small clamp style without the swivel pads. Don't recall what provided the third clamping point for the bottom of the loop but I'll try to find a picture.
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
flybynite
FOUNDER
Eagan, Minnesota
Found it. Grooves ground into jaws to fit the wire. Wooden block serves as third point.
Also... "economy" vise for 1/8"-5/8" wire http://www.elishawebb.com/SplicingVise.htm $235
or homemade version
Wayne
Also... "economy" vise for 1/8"-5/8" wire http://www.elishawebb.com/SplicingVise.htm $235
or homemade version
Wayne
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
thanks for looking this up!!
the swivel jaws probably would work better... with a grove in them???? gonna have to try this
irishfield
Registered User
Penetanguishene, Ontario Canada
fancypants
FOUNDER
IL
I'm planning to replace my aileron cables this winter and had an idea kicking around in my head for a small, lightweight clamp that could easily be used to do the crimping in-place on the plane. It involved a spring clamp and a threaded adjustable foot to hold pressure on the bottom of the eye like all the other tools people have shared here. Once I sat down to build the contraption, I realized I had really overcomplicated it, and decided to simplify things quite a bit.
For 1/8" cable, 3/4" PVC pipe slit down the middle with a circular notch to hold the thimble in place seems to work pretty well. If you have to get an eyebolt/turnbuckle on there too, like at the aileron horn attach points, you might have to drill out the pipe opposite the slit to let it dangle out the bottom. Here's my "prototype":
If that's too rustic, this "external ring clamp" might do the trick for $20.
I was coveting this marvelous piece of engineering last time I was down in Graham, but I think the PVC will do the trick for me.
For 1/8" cable, 3/4" PVC pipe slit down the middle with a circular notch to hold the thimble in place seems to work pretty well. If you have to get an eyebolt/turnbuckle on there too, like at the aileron horn attach points, you might have to drill out the pipe opposite the slit to let it dangle out the bottom. Here's my "prototype":
If that's too rustic, this "external ring clamp" might do the trick for $20.
I was coveting this marvelous piece of engineering last time I was down in Graham, but I think the PVC will do the trick for me.
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cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
Most times I just use my hands but heres my holder.
Glenn
Glenn
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
heres my quick first try at it... some room for improvement.. that felt is just to make up for the fact i cut wood to short
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
in the other thread here http://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...are-on-Fuel-Lines&highlight=tubing+flair+tool
talked about tools to put a bulb in aluminum tube like the real Parker ones bellow http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=AP145
but I had always thought of converting a tubing cutter, and had collected many, just never got around to trying, so here try #1, it works... you could make it with a hacksaw and a drill... I also made new grooved rollers, but you might have one that already has grooved rollers for cutting right at a flair...
the donor... still useable as cutter, just put the old parts back in..
talked about tools to put a bulb in aluminum tube like the real Parker ones bellow http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=AP145
but I had always thought of converting a tubing cutter, and had collected many, just never got around to trying, so here try #1, it works... you could make it with a hacksaw and a drill... I also made new grooved rollers, but you might have one that already has grooved rollers for cutting right at a flair...
the donor... still useable as cutter, just put the old parts back in..
Steve's Aircraft (Brian)
FRIEND
White City, Oregon
Time to look for one of those style cutters.... Thanks for the inspiration Mike...
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
also if you don't have the means to make the dies, you can buy the beading dies here http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/main.aspx
Part Number: 12-342-20-6 for 3/8 tube
Part Number: 12-342-16 for 1/4" tube
Part Number: 12-342-20-6 for 3/8 tube
Part Number: 12-342-16 for 1/4" tube
jimboflying
MEMBER
My version of the cable clamp with previous inspiration provided here. To cut the groove in the paddles I clamped a thin sheet of aluminum between the jaws and then used a 1/8" drill to drill down through the sheet and also groove the paddle plates. I then took a long bolt and the large hex nut and clamped it in the jaws with the nut touching the base of the vise grips and welded that in place. I then grooved the round head screw. This screw provided the top support and adjustment for the cable and fish eye. I used the small vise grip size. 
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irishfield
Registered User
Penetanguishene, Ontario Canada
Simple and it works Oliver... and as you've shown can be used in a tight spot. Like I said, all I've ever used and I've swaged a LOT of cables in the past 20+ years.
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
Copper electrical "split bolts" (at a real electrical supply house, where the contractors go) of the appropriate size are what we used rigging hang gliders and ultralights, (think LOTS of cable). Light pressure, not enough to deform the cable, and they hold real good, making trial fits easy, and if you already have the nico in place, you then make the swedge and then remove the split bolt. They take all the drama out of a rigging job, we also used to cleanly cut off those little splayed ends of the thimbles, to get a snugger fit, never saw one of those vices before.
cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
I grind the ears off also.
Glenn
Glenn
irishfield
Registered User
Penetanguishene, Ontario Canada
Yep.. you always should clip the thimble points!
While adjusting, hold the clamp in your palm, gently relax a little clamp pressure and pull on the "tail"of excess cable, it'll snug the whole operation up including shorten the cable if desired.
Re. Thimbles, I found if you slightly squeeze the little "splayed ends" togrther they'll suck into the sleeve on the second crimp helping to really marry the thimble to the sleeve.
Re. Thimbles, I found if you slightly squeeze the little "splayed ends" togrther they'll suck into the sleeve on the second crimp helping to really marry the thimble to the sleeve.
courierguy
MEMBER
Inkom, Idaho
We were using 3/32 cable, buying it by the 1000' reel, so a single squeeze on the nico. I like that tucking the points in trick though. Also glad to hear others cut the points off. Those split bolts hold so reliably and well I actually flew with them holding the flying wires together on a hang glider, when I was doing some major modding, though I did take care to not get more then a few feet above the ground.
Decades later I was doing some electrical work and needed to attach some wires in a removable fashion.... and I remembered my long ago earlier use of the split bolt, and what do you know, they work good on electrical wire also, ha ha.
Decades later I was doing some electrical work and needed to attach some wires in a removable fashion.... and I remembered my long ago earlier use of the split bolt, and what do you know, they work good on electrical wire also, ha ha.
Crash
GONE WEST
Nikiski Alaska
That is very clever. I still have my first old Speed Shade that I might pull the guts out and make one of these. Also....I know we're not doing a lot of welding this way. But just FYI....
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23650770
http://www.irpa.net/irpa10/cdrom/01049.pdf
Crash
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
never never EVER!!
you slightly squeeze the tips with some cutters so they fit in copper nico press sleeve....
if you remove the tips the sleeve will fall out in uses like ski check cable as it stretches eyelet shape
irishfield
Registered User
Penetanguishene, Ontario Canada
I was taught to clip the very tip off the points so they don't go in the nico and cause a stress point on the cable. The way I do it, the thimble ends up tight to the nico, without pinching in on the cable and I've never had a thimble come loose (and I've rigged a sload of skis). Just looked and it's also how AC43 spells it out, so I'll go with that.
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cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
Glenn
Larry G
Registered User
Minocqua WI
Next time I have to do that I will put on like a painters hood. My face was a little sore the next day. Not sure if that would help for UV
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
I really like your version!!!
