tools, jigs, fixtures, and other neat stuff

[mike mcs repair]

no fancy jig needed for putting the twist in flaps and ailerons, and its guaranteed to match wing twist...just make sure WING twist is proper before doing this...

you do this before you rivet along spar(or remove rivets).. pictures were taking midway through project after some riveting was done...

simple just a bunch of strait sticks/bars, and some washers and bolts...









note there is a 3/16" space taped to striat edges, to help miss trailing edge skin/screws on wing and help lay flat on ribs.. also why there are 3 washer on top of strait edge, to make gap same...

[mike mcs repair]

putting flap gap fairing on square/strait?

the trailing edge of wing is usually not strait... so i make a chalk line hidden under where fairings will be and then measure off this line to mark where fairing really goes...

[Marty57]

I needed the pulley cage and attach fittings for the aileron pulleys on my 2+2 wing; stock PA 18 parts. Well, being cheap and enjoying the process, I decided to make my own. The attach fitting has a double joggle necessary to fit the bolt to the spar and attach to the much smaller cage. The stock part has a double joggle. The part is pretty inexpensive but I would have to order it, wait, pay shipping, etc. So I made my own. The double joggle was tricky but a couple pieces of oak, a band saw, a press and finished parts.

First the block to form the double joggle:
joggle block.jpg

Then the press:

press.jpg

Finished parts with parts before bending:

finished 1.jpg

Finished attached to cage:

finished 2.jpg

All the cages and brackets (one extra) ready to prime:

all done.jpg

The cage with the attach fitting is listed from Univair for $68; 4 needed with shipping about $280. My cost about $10 worth of steel (including ones I first screwed up). Yes it took me some time but a great way to spend a couple of furlough days from work! Amazing what you can make from a little bit of oak. The point is parts can sometimes be fabricated with some not-to-fancy tools.

[Steve Pierce]

Nice, I like that idea.

[D.A.]

Not near as clever as the offerings from the rest of you, but it's quick, easy, cheap and works great. One 8' 4X4 cut in half, one allthread, two lawn mower wheels and a hand full of hardware. The 4X4s bolt to the engine mount pads. The height is just perfect, rolls easy and doesn't take up anymore width than the frame itself. To me it seemed easier to bolt to the engine mount pads rather than the normal gear attach fittings.

[qsmx440]

[QUOTE=Marty57;503038]I needed the pulley cage and attach fittings for the aileron pulleys on my 2+2 wing; stock PA 18 parts. Well, being cheap and enjoying the process, I decided to make my own. The attach fitting has a double joggle necessary to fit the bolt to the spar and attach to the much smaller cage. The stock part has a double joggle. The part is pretty inexpensive but I would have to order it, wait, pay shipping, etc. So I made my own. The double joggle was tricky but a couple pieces of oak, a band saw, a press and finished parts.

Marty do you plan to plate these parts or paint? I have been considering one of those plating kits but have never done it yet.

[Marty57]

I painted the cages. I decided to use Eco Prime and will top coat with Epoxy. I bought a gallon of the Eco Prime and debated about switching to Epoxy prime but am using what I have. I used a cheap air brush from Harbor Freight (thanks Christian for the suggestion) Everything made recently ( 30 or so pieces ) is currently "oven baking" in my attic; the heat is good for something.
Marty.

[qsmx440]

Thanks Marty.

[D.A.]

With a couple 2X4 cross pieces, the temp gear becomes a rotator.

[mike mcs repair]

With a couple 2X4 cross pieces, the temp gear becomes a rotator.

that's way to simple very nice....

you get extra credit if it gets wheels on all sides now

[kevin]

DA, I did the same thing. The only thing I don't like about it is it is bulky and a little hard to rotate, at least it is for me, but it works good.

I bought an engine stand from Harbor Freight. I'm planning on using it during the fabric process. It needs a wider stance for stability so I will have to modify it to work. I think it will be easier than the 2x4 method.

[D.A.]

DA, I did the same thing...

So Kevin, on my build thread I stated that someone else on the forum had done the 2X4 thing but I couldn't remember who it was. Was it you that posted pictures of cross 2X4s? I gotta give credit where credit is due.

[jimboflying]

I decided to make a gang tool setup for my lathe work. I then decided I needed to have controlable coolant for each tool so I put together this setup with toggle switches and needle valves for volume control. DSCN0092.JPGDSCN0091.JPG

[mike mcs repair]

I decided to make a gang tool setup for my lathe work. I then decided I needed to have controlable coolant for each tool so I put together this setup with toggle switches and needle valves for volume

wow....

taking notes here!!!!!!!!!!

[12 Geezer]

http://www.sterlingmachinery.com/res...s=turret+lathe

[kevin]

So Kevin, on my build thread I stated that someone else on the forum had done the 2X4 thing but I couldn't remember who it was. Was it you that posted pictures of cross 2X4s? I gotta give credit where credit is due.

Wasn't me D.A. I don't know how to post pictures.......yet.

[Ursa Major]

fuse stand.jpg

This one maybe?

[Binty]

A simple 30 degree Tube cutting template to use when you cant use a mitre/drop saw.
104_PANA-P1040186_P1040186.JPG

104_PANA-P1040187_P1040187.JPG

[mike mcs repair]

I had an epiphany today....

and after a 25 lb bag of material from AIH(Alaska Industrial Hardware), it sits, half done on the lathe

look for a cool tool(s) tomorrow.....

or an...

ya IdioT! that's exactly why no one does it that way!!!!!!!



I thinks it will qualify NEW cool tool category!!.........



PS.. my 85 yr old stepfather Windy came over today and sorted out the 7 blue organizer cabinets I sent through the mail 19 years ago when we sold the Air taxi in Naknek......

do you have ANY idea what FULL small hardware organizers cabinets contents look like after a trip through the US mail????

that is EXACTLY why they have sat,

pushed back to the back of the shelves for 19 years.....

[mike mcs repair]

I had an epiphany today....

and after a 25 lb bag of material from AIH(Alaska Industrial Hardware), it sits, half done on the lathe

look for a cool tool(s) tomorrow.....

or an...

ya IdioT! that's exactly why no one does it that way!!!!!!!



I thinks it will qualify NEW cool tool category!!.........

well, It's a work in progress.... but I like it....

I was gonna make some new steel rolling dies like shown in post #67 in the kydex thread

EDIT: replaced link with better one

http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...l=1#post503509

well, it seems I cleaned the 2 1/2" bar stock to some hidden corner of my shop

so plan 'B'.... got looking at those washers from post 67 in other thread... and it hit me...

instead of making MANY single use die sets, why not make a bunch of thin pieces from washers and PVC pipe... and then stack them on roller however to make unlimited patterns.....
(think old erector set...)

so This is mostly a tool so I put it in this thread...

you can probably make one with a drill press and a file if you dont have a lathe...

[mike mcs repair]

and another old idea finished

http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...l=1#post512661

[Iflylower]

Wow, I love this idea to stiffen up those kydex interior side panels. I installed mine flat, but I'd like to add some rigidity to them. I bet you could joggle where one panel meets another with your setup.

Mostly, I'm happy with the kydex

[mike mcs repair]

Wow, I love this idea to stiffen up those kydex interior side panels. I installed mine flat, but I'd like to add some rigidity to them. I bet you could joggle where one panel meets another with your setup.

Mostly, I'm happy with the kydex

they will change size/shrink when you bead them, so you must do that step before cutting them to size....

ya that new wide bead makes them real strong!!

look in the kydex thread for my joint seam, NO CHANCE of it getting snagged, and super stiff...

[Steve Pierce]

Was reading the latest copy of The Cub Clues when I saw a neat article by Marvin Hoppenworth who is the guy behind the pedal planes like a built Lee several years ago. He had some pictures of his fuselage mover, wing rotator and tail feather paint fixture. I had been looking at different designs of tail feather fixtures and liked his the best. Dana at the Cub Club sent me a picture and I worked off of that. Got it finished today and it works really nice.
DSCF0127.jpg DSCF0128.JPG DSCF0131.JPG DSCF0132.JPG DSCF0133.JPG DSCF0134.JPG

[mike mcs repair]

Was reading the latest copy of The Cub Clues when I saw a neat article by Marvin Hoppenworth who is the guy behind the pedal planes like a built Lee several years ago. He had some pictures of his fuselage mover, wing rotator and tail feather paint fixture. I had been looking at different designs of tail feather fixtures and liked his the best. Dana at the Cub Club sent me a picture and I worked off of that. Got it finished today and it works really nice.
DSCF0127.jpg DSCF0128.JPG DSCF0131.JPG DSCF0132.JPG DSCF0133.JPG DSCF0134.JPG

I like it!

will have to build one, much less space than the 2 saw horses I stand them on now....

maybe I make it a ceiling hanging one?

[R. JOHNSON]

Here's a variation of that we use to turn tail feathers. https://picasaweb.google.com/ryanajo...42184191048306

Ryan

[kevin]

That is one pretty Taylorcraft.

[ekimneirbo]

Here are some ideas for a woorkbench that can serve several purposes. Most builders build rather narrow benches to serve as jig tables for welding. I took a different tact and built something more permanent that could later be used as a bench for other work. I wanted a flat surface and admittedly have some overkill in this bench......but I figure there are probably a few other toolaholics out there who may be as anal as me.

To me, wood is the devils material. It never seems to be as straight or flat as it appeared at the store once I offload it from my truck. I like metal better, but there are some ideas here that might be of interest even to a wood builder.

To get the legs spaced the right distance apart (width), I welded them to some narrow strips of plate and then bolted the plates to the floor. Then I tack welded the long box tube supports to one set (one side) of the bench and leveled the ends with a Craftsman Laser Level. Just set a ruler or square in front of the laser and get a reference mark. Then move it to the other end of the rail and
raise the rail until the laser hits the same mark. Once you get one side of the jig TACKED together on the ENDs, you can work on leveling the middle. You need to make some slots to allow adjustment of the middle (20 ft long) tubes. Then do the other side and level from the first side.
(Note the 4th picture which shows the slots and adjuster screw...you can just weld it and shim the work surface a little but adjustability makes it be supported better)


Width Dimension: MDF (Multi Density Fiberboard) makes a nice flat surface and it comes in 49" widths. The extra inch makes a nice difference. When buying it from a Home Depot or Lowes, make sure they have a panel saw. Get them to cut a groove in the center of the board about 1/4 " deep. When I made mine, I cut it completely in half and installed some of the strap like is used to put bands around crates, to make a small lip. Its much easier to just have a groove cut in the MDF.
Like they say,"Hindsight is 20/20". Be sure to measure to the center of the board fomr both top and bottom so the groove is cut exactly on center. By doing this you will have a permanent centerline reference point in your jig table. With a little care and a few shims you can have an extremely flat surface. The thing about the 49" with is that it will allow you to keep the area beneath the table just slightly wider than 48' and all of your sheetmetal (aluminum) can be stored beneath the table. A second shelf can also be added that will allow storage of tubing etc.

Later in the project you can fasten uprights to each end of the table and run some tube from end to end that can hold a plumbob centered over centerline and keep other attached components in the correct place.

[jimboflying]

I decided to make a new Cleco pliers. I started with an appropriate slip joint water pump pliers, welded a plate to one of the jaws, drilled a hole the diameter of the cleco, cut out the end, milled a 1/2"seat so the cleco wouldn't slip out, polished and case hardened. It seems to work well, has a solid hold on the cleco, and long enough handles for good leverage.

DSC00269.JPGDSC00270.JPG

[Grant]

I have been using the a shopbot that we have at work and I have found it is a great tool. I have to have one so I started looking around and it seems there is a whole cottage industry of folks who have built there own, saving tons of money in the process. I found the one I'm going to build. What do you think?

KRMx02pic.jpg

There are thousands of designs online and ideas in my head of what all I can use it for. So far I have used the shop bot for most every flat piece I have needed to cut lately and I have done my floorboards with it. Lots of fun.

[Steve Pierce]

Grant, can you post some useful links. Looks like a neat tool but what I am finding is $7-15K.

[Grant]

http://www.mechmate.com
http://www.kronosrobotics.com

[Steve Pierce]

Thanks Grant. Looks like a cool project in my spare time.

[behindpropellers]

You can spend the next 20 years reading about router builds on www.cnczone.com

[Iflylower]

Wood only, or are you cutting 4130 plate?

I made a bunch of flat pieces cut from a laser. I just put a bunch of prints on a 2d cad.

What ever the step between taking my 2d cad prints and sending me parts back to weld together was pure magic. That's the part I don't really get...

[Nathan K. Hammond]

Stolen from irishfield on another thread because it's a slick setup...
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"I use an electric windshield washer pump with the inlet hose stuffed in full jug of fluid and 1/4" clear aquarium hose on the outlet. Same pump has lasted over 15 years and done many many system fills on wheels and long lines of amphibs. Here is a picture of my "system". All in one tote tray. Old battery, pump, fluid and supplies. Easy to store and everything is in one place when needed."





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nkh

[Grant]

You can do wood aluminum and steel if you do it right.

[roundrocktom]

I'm always looking for a place to set down the torch. Simple holder (tie wrap is temporary as I'd adding more tabs to the fuselage for interior panels).

The "combo tip holder and wrench" was purchased from tinmantech.com Oh so handy as I keep jumping from #1 to #2 depending on what I am welding.

Tom

meco_stand.jpgmeco3.jpg

[roundrocktom]

Little too lame, but handy.

Chunk of aluminum. I drilled two holes all the way through. Super Magnets are expoxied into those two hole. So it stays put against my plate shear. Grab some 1" wide 0.050" 4130.... and in five minutes I have 80 tabs cut out. Fast and simple. Orange paint just helps me remember it is a tool and not toss into a scrap bin! (btdt).

As the cutting blade comes down, it will slide the spacer down. Easy to slide back up.


rapid_cut_spacer3.jpgrapid_cut_spacer.jpgrapid_cut_spacer2.jpg

[roundrocktom]

Modified a cleco clamp. Easy to hold the ends of a AN742 aluminum clamp together when first starting a screw.

Clamp AN742. Use an awl to line up holes. Start screw, remove.

I have a special tool for doing this, but this is what happens when I'm trying to get something done and can not find the special tool.

modified_cleco_gripper.jpg