Roger Peterson
Registered User
Sweeny, Texas
This is my first plane using SS and wondering if there is any way to cut down on the foaming when brushing the first coat of EkoFill into the fabric.
Stewart System
- Thread starter Roger Peterson
- Start date
jr.hammack
Registered User
north of willow ak.
roger,
jason the ss guru told me if it starts foaming alot ya'r bushing too hard (pressure) and too little product.
give them a call,but that helped me,also too much pressure wears the foam brush,tried a quality hair brush with good results.ss takes a differant tech.but i would do it again!!
jr.
jason the ss guru told me if it starts foaming alot ya'r bushing too hard (pressure) and too little product.
give them a call,but that helped me,also too much pressure wears the foam brush,tried a quality hair brush with good results.ss takes a differant tech.but i would do it again!!
jr.
Roger Peterson
Registered User
Sweeny, Texas
Thanks, will give that a try
jgerard
Registered User
Seattle, WA
Hi Roger,
Yeah, I would say you are trying to put too much product on at one time. Buy the finest quality foam brushes you can find. Only dip them about a 1/2" into the EkoFill ( just past the end of the tapered tip) and only push hard enough to lay the tip down flat against the fabric. Work the EkoFill quickly into the weave and do not re-wet the brush until you have worked it almost completely dry. Expect to see the blue tint of the glue through the first coat and when the first coat is dry to the touch you can brush on the second coat 90* the first one finishing the brushed x-coat. It's sometimes hard for experienced fabric guys to get used to just how much less product is required/used. To reduce the amount of foaming in the cup of EkoFill do not over-saturate the brush with product and then wipe it off on the lip of the cup. Also, as you may have noticed any bubbles you have from brushing do go away by them selves. If you start to get a lot of foaming just wipe it off the cup and brush with a paper towel. Sounds like your moving right along with the project.
Don't hesitate to call, I'm already 1000 mistakes ahead of you-
Jason
Yeah, I would say you are trying to put too much product on at one time. Buy the finest quality foam brushes you can find. Only dip them about a 1/2" into the EkoFill ( just past the end of the tapered tip) and only push hard enough to lay the tip down flat against the fabric. Work the EkoFill quickly into the weave and do not re-wet the brush until you have worked it almost completely dry. Expect to see the blue tint of the glue through the first coat and when the first coat is dry to the touch you can brush on the second coat 90* the first one finishing the brushed x-coat. It's sometimes hard for experienced fabric guys to get used to just how much less product is required/used. To reduce the amount of foaming in the cup of EkoFill do not over-saturate the brush with product and then wipe it off on the lip of the cup. Also, as you may have noticed any bubbles you have from brushing do go away by them selves. If you start to get a lot of foaming just wipe it off the cup and brush with a paper towel. Sounds like your moving right along with the project.
Don't hesitate to call, I'm already 1000 mistakes ahead of you-
Jason
Roger Peterson
Registered User
Sweeny, Texas
Just put the cross coat on with a bristle brush like Ron suggested, and it worked great. I had some real cheep foam brushes and was trying to brush it in like PolyBrush. Will take some time to retrain a old fart like me, but I will get there.
bob turner
Registered User
I have been trying to watch the DVDs. Mr. Stewart is very nice, but it is no fun watching him do both sides of the wing, over and over and over and over.
The glue looks like a major advance over anything I have yet seen. If the eco fill is as good as six coats of silver butyrate, then the Stewarts system has to be lighter. Stewarts counts one cross-coat as two coats!
My question - how much of each product does a Cub require for a minimal, but glossy, finish? I am sure it is in the video, but I am not very good at the fast forward button yet.
I have seen a glossy test panel, and was seriously impressed, but I am not impressed so far with entire aircraft that I have seen, either on the video or on the ramp. Still, this process could be the hottest process yet.
The glue looks like a major advance over anything I have yet seen. If the eco fill is as good as six coats of silver butyrate, then the Stewarts system has to be lighter. Stewarts counts one cross-coat as two coats!
My question - how much of each product does a Cub require for a minimal, but glossy, finish? I am sure it is in the video, but I am not very good at the fast forward button yet.
I have seen a glossy test panel, and was seriously impressed, but I am not impressed so far with entire aircraft that I have seen, either on the video or on the ramp. Still, this process could be the hottest process yet.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
bob turner said:
Have you tried to watch that old Ray Stits video? :lol:
Cub junkie
Registered User
My Moms basement
I think just the opposite, I like the videos. I watched(and rewatched) them on a 3 day layover in Bahrain and they kept me entertained. TV in bahrain is not very interesting. I have only worked with poly-fiber in the past and I'm looking forward to using the Stewart System. As many have commented on the glue, it does look like a much better glue than that poly-tak roping up on you. Mr. Turner, how are you not impressed with the final result? All the airplanes I have seen pictures of look beautiful and shiny. I have not seen an airplane finished with Stewart in person.
bob turner
Registered User
I never watched the Ray Stitts video - did mine in 1968, before such things existed. Still have the tail feathers in their original Stitts, and they still look ok.
Saw a finished Tri Pacer the other day - from ten feet it looked good, but close up not so hot. I think the application technique is critical. Gary's test panel has that wet look; not a hint of orange peel - but look carefully at the video where Mr. Stewart is explaining the dorsal fin of the Citabria.
If I were stuck in Bahrain, I might be able to watch six coats of paint over the entire wing, pass by pass. I think a panel would be good enough.
Saw a finished Tri Pacer the other day - from ten feet it looked good, but close up not so hot. I think the application technique is critical. Gary's test panel has that wet look; not a hint of orange peel - but look carefully at the video where Mr. Stewart is explaining the dorsal fin of the Citabria.
If I were stuck in Bahrain, I might be able to watch six coats of paint over the entire wing, pass by pass. I think a panel would be good enough.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Anyone can make any system look bad.
