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Thread: 0-320 cylinders 160 vs 150

  1. #1

    0-320 cylinders 160 vs 150

    Looking for info and facts, I have a 0-320 b2b 160 narrow deck with the banana plates on the base, this engine is about ready for OH.
    I have 4 fresh mattituck complete assemblies for another back burner project. So what's the real difference. Some have told me they are exactly the same other than pistons, and others have said no banana plates, no go.
    I could live with 1 good used assy. For now if I can find one but this is coming soon regardless.

  2. #2
    Narrow deck 160hp engines have higher compression pistons and cylinder base plates. The front main bearing and through studs are different as well. The new manufacture narrow deck 150 hp cylinders have fillets machined into the base and you can't install the plates over these. I have read somewhere that there was a choke in the 160 hp cylinders that is not in the 150 hp but I haven't verified that.
    Steve Pierce

    "When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it."
    Henry Ford

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce
    Narrow deck 160hp engines have higher compression pistons and cylinder base plates. The front main bearing and through studs are different as well. The new manufacture narrow deck 150 hp cylinders have fillets machined into the base and you can't install the plates over these. I have read somewhere that there was a choke in the 160 hp cylinders that is not in the 150 hp but I haven't verified that.
    My Mattituck OH Cylinders Would not have the Fillets then, and could possibly be correct? Are those Banana Plates Loose or attached to the Cylinder? I really just need one good cylinder now and would rather keep my nice fresh set for the 150 Tri pacer I have out back, I am looking at the cost of a yellow tagged assy. and find it is so close to a new Assy. that It seems crazy to not buy a new one, Then once I open that can of worms how do I not Replace all 4, Then while I'm at it How can I put 4 new Jugs on a run out lower end? Seems like I better find a great deal on a used cylinder To buy a little more time before a complete rebuild. Anyone have a nice 0-320-B2B Cylinder kicking around, I have 6 (1,100 hour) 0-470 Cylinders kicking around for trade! Or of coarse Cash.

  4. #4
    StewartB
    Guest
    I didn't know the narrow decks were designated B2B. My 0-320B2B is a wide deck 160hp.

    Scroll about 3/4 down the linked page for a good picture of the hold-down plate on a narrow deck.
    http://www.sacskyranch.com/lycoming.htm

  5. #5
    Call Mark and Marshal Gibson at Gibson Aviation. They are the cylinder go to guys. The plates act like a giant washer between the cylinder and nut.
    Steve Pierce

    "When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it."
    Henry Ford

  6. #6
    "Lycoming engines manufactured before 1964 (1971 for 540 series and 1975 for 720 series) were of narrow deck design. These engines used cylinder base hold down plates and internal-wrenching type cylinder base nuts. After these dates, Lycoming engines became "wide deck", Wide deck engines have regular hex type cylinder base nuts and a thicker cylinder base flange (approximately 3/8" thick). The thicker cylinder base flange makes the wide deck engines slightly wider than the narrow deck engine. The switch from narrow deck to wide deck did not change the model number of the engine even though cylinders and crankcases are not interchangeable. Another method you can use to distinguish narrow deck from wide deck is by the engine serial number. If the serial number ends with the letter "A" it is wide deck-; e.g. L-82374-27A."

    This is from the "Sky Ranch Engineering Manual" by John Schwaner on the operation, failure and repair of piston aircraft engines.

    150 hp narrow deck.
    Steve Pierce

    "When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it."
    Henry Ford

  7. #7
    You guys are great, So much info all backed up with Facts and even pictures.
    My Cub is a 67 Born as a 150 And later converted to the 160 Which is a narrow deck with the plates. My other rebuilt Cylinders are also narrow Deck but 150 hp. I did Call Gibson as that is Where I have purchased overhauled cylinders before. They have always been great to talk to and sent me a good Product too. I did not feel right asking them for info on some cylinders that they did not even get to rebuild. And my only reservation with just ordering one from Them this time around is that the complete assy from them with new Piston and all will run $800 and I can buy a new one for $1,100 with 0 time. I have not made any decisions yet and still need to tear this one down but expect to find cracks around the Exhaust port. If my parts are good I can buy a bare Stud assy from Gibson and Enjoy the value I always have with them but I expect to have a Worn out Piston and Tired old Valves! Well see soon enough. Keep the great info coming and thanks again.

  8. #8
    One of the big differences between the 150 and 160 cyls was the number of fins.( On the narrow deck only) The 160 had less fins because of the longer studs needed when the plates were installed.
    You'll find out right away, when you go to bolt the cyl down if its the right one.
    Also, "originally", the 160's had a choke, and the 150's didn't. that's why the 150 and 160 used different rings. The 160's needed a wider ring gap. What happened at the overhaul shop to a cyl is anybody's guess. You'd have to mike the bore to find out.

    A local mechanic did a top overhaul on a 125 hp some years ago. thinking it was still a straight wall, he put in the regular rings with the regular gap. the engine used oil like crazy. When Jugs were pulled off, we found out the cyls were choked and the rings were just smashing the ends together. Luckily it didn't ruin the cyl walls, but it sure could of.
    The most important aspect of this signature line is that you don't realize it doesn't say anything significant until you are done reading it & then it is too late to stop reading it....

  9. #9
    Very good info, Exactly what I was looking for. So most likely my Mattituck Fresh Cylinders will have more cooling fins and are straight no choke, I Am just thinking ahead here as the jug is not even off yet, I am thinking If The Valves and piston are good I will just order one stud assy. from Gibson like I have in the past, But if I Need to buy any piston,Valves and such I will lean toward the new Cylinder. This is where the Decisions will have to be made. My engine is high time and Currently just has an issue with one Jug, So if I can keep it affordable I will hang one jug and enjoy another year of fun. if I can't hang one stud assy I will consider a top With new But that would be a hard decision as it is high time now. Placing 4 new Jugs on an old bottom, I guess I could just do that and put off a major for some years. I don't mind not being able to use my Mattituck cylinders as they are complete with pistons and all so I would be wasting parts or splitting up a nice set that way anyhow. I will get that jug Pulled this week then I'll know what I'm looking at.
    Thanks again to everyone for all the info.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by S2D
    One of the big differences between the 150 and 160 cyls was the number of fins.( On the narrow deck only) The 160 had less fins because of the longer studs needed when the plates were installed.
    You'll find out right away, when you go to bolt the cyl down if its the right one.
    Also, "originally", the 160's had a choke, and the 150's didn't. that's why the 150 and 160 used different rings. The 160's needed a wider ring gap. What happened at the overhaul shop to a cyl is anybody's guess. You'd have to mike the bore to find out.

    A local mechanic did a top overhaul on a 125 hp some years ago. thinking it was still a straight wall, he put in the regular rings with the regular gap. the engine used oil like crazy. When Jugs were pulled off, we found out the cyls were choked and the rings were just smashing the ends together. Luckily it didn't ruin the cyl walls, but it sure could of.
    Remember my thread on high oil temps with Dave's 160. There seems to be a belief that ECI cylinder's that have a different type of cylinder metal or hardness that retain heat and is the main contributor to the excessive oil temps. Is there any truth to this theory?

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by aerialimage
    . if I can't hang one stud assy I will consider a top With new But that would be a hard decision as it is high time now. Placing 4 new Jugs on an old bottom, I guess I could just do that and put off a major for some years. . I will get that jug Pulled this week then I'll know what I'm looking at.
    The big thing, is to take a very good look at the cam while you have the cyl off. If the cam and lifters are still in very good shape, and you see no indication of leaking in the case halves, your bottom end could possibly go another 1000 hrs. you also don't say what is wrong with the bad cyl. Is it cracked ??

    I had two back cyls crack on one of my engines at 1800 hrs. Replaced them and ran the engine another 1400 hrs . Still wasn't anything wrong with the engine when I pulled it.

    My last one went to about 2800 hrs, but the cam was pretty worn out by the time I removed it. Should have done it about 400 hrs earlier
    The most important aspect of this signature line is that you don't realize it doesn't say anything significant until you are done reading it & then it is too late to stop reading it....

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Fortysix12
    Remember my thread on high oil temps with Dave's 160. There seems to be a belief that ECI cylinder's that have a different type of cylinder metal or hardness that retain heat and is the main contributor to the excessive oil temps. Is there any truth to this theory?
    could be. I know some engines run way hotter than others and some of it may be the choke/ ring gap etc. Ag-Pilot had a 150 in his old A model that always ran really hot.
    The most important aspect of this signature line is that you don't realize it doesn't say anything significant until you are done reading it & then it is too late to stop reading it....

  13. #13
    I've built 160 hp O-320s with ECI Titan Nickel cylinders with no cooling problems.
    Steve Pierce

    "When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it."
    Henry Ford

  14. #14
    Steve, was that a Wide or Narrow deck?

    In a few years I might be looking at something like that. I'me runnin' a WD, which might could simplicate things...

    Thanks. cubscout

  15. #15
    Going back a step, here is a picture of narrow deck 160hp banana plates.
    Darrel
    When a prang seems inevitable, endeavor to strike the softest, cheapest object in the vicinity, as slowly and gently as possible.— advice given to RAF pilots during W.W.II.



  16. #16

    150 vs 160

    they did make 160's in a narrow deck 0320b3b

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