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Thread: Covering, Stewart System

  1. #1

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    Covering, Stewart System

    A few months ago, there was a lot of chatters on the Stewart System, almost all positive, about the product.

    I am just about ready to order my covering material for a PA-11 replica and I was wandering if new info. have been received by members on the quality and the life span of the covering system by Stewart.

    Thank you for sharing your experiences.

    Gilles

  2. #2
    Bugs66's Avatar
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    I am covering mine right now with it. Great stuff. My friends Super Cub fuselage has it for over 8 years. Looks new.

    Everything is water wash up. No fumes. No hazmat.

  3. #3
    jgerard's Avatar
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    The only people that I have heard talk negatively about Stewart Systems are those that have not used it before. You have to take into consideration that everyone interperates instructions differently and there are many variables that can affect the outcome of any covering system. Have you watched the Stewart Systems DVD set with 7+hrs of video on how to cover and paint? If not contact me so I can send one to you.

    Jason Gerard

  4. #4

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    Stewart Covering system

    Thank you gentlemen for your comments on the Stewart's.

    I have in my possession, the full 7 hour video and the complete manual on the proper ways to use their product. I feel at ease with my decision to use the Stewart System especially since I will do the job in my heated garage connected to my house. I will keep you posted on how things are going. Meanwhile, if anyone has further infos, please let me know.

    Gilles

  5. #5
    DW's Avatar
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    Jason
    Are you planing to have a workshop or seminar in the near future?
    I would like to reserve a spot.

  6. #6
    jgerard's Avatar
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    Dennis, I'll put you on the list.

    Hopefully we can get a hands on class going for Dave Smiths Cub this fall.

    Jason

  7. #7

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    Jason,
    I'm hoping to start covering my TCOW kit in Sept. Could you hook me up with those DVDs? And when is your next class?
    DW, if you want to come out to take a look at my project before I cover, next month when I get home may be your last chance.
    Thanks guys.
    T

  8. #8
    DW's Avatar
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    Ted
    Yes I would like to look at your cub before cover give me a call when you get back--971-235-8605

    Dennis

  9. #9
    AntiCub's Avatar
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    If he doesn't chime in, you should PM 60below. He's just finished covering his Fuselage with it and should have some opinions for you.

    I'm just finishing up a set of kit plane wings with Polyfiber (Stitts) and after taking the Stewart's class from Jason, I sure wish I'd used that instead.

    Phil

  10. #10
    sadams's Avatar
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    I attended one of Jason's short classes at Arlington, if you get the chance take a class from him. Jason makes the process simple and is an excellent teacher.

  11. #11

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    Gosh Darn that Stewart system is Great!

    60Below and I covered his Cub fuselage with the Stewart System process and I have covered a couple of small pieces and started using it for patching and refinishing nasty paint cracks in other processes.

    The glue is fantastic. It is easy to work with, doesn't smell, doesn't make a huge mess, and best of all, it doesn't show through the fabric or make ridges that have to be ironed out.

    The "silver" dope is also easy to use, doesn't stink, sticks well...

    The Stewart Systems DVD's are great, their classes are well-organized and they really support their products with personal advice. (I have called on a Sunday and received advice and tips.)

    I am not much of a painter, so am still having some slight orange-peeling in the paint, but I am getting the hang of it. Following the Directions works really well.

    One of the really nice things about the Stewart Process is that their manual spells out that the fabric can be glued over Non-structural components. This means that the fuselage fabric on the cub can be legally glued together over the spine. I don't see that being legal in the Stits process manual. Yes, I see it done all of the time...

    Another great advantage of the Stewart System is the time saved in cleaning up cans, hands and the spray gun. Just wash in the sink, shoot a little water through the gun and put it away. Easy. No thinners, no mess.

    I patched a fuselage covered with Stits fabric using the Stits process yesterday, I had forgotten how much it stinks, makes my throat sore (even using charcoal filters) and how much extra time and thinner it takes to clean up the gun.

    While the longevity of the Stewart System in our Fairbanks climate is unknown, I don't care. At least I am not poisoning myself with those other processes' nasty heavy metals and chemicals. If I have to recover 60Below's fuselage in ten or fifteen years, that is okay.

    Vickie

  12. #12
    DW's Avatar
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    Great to hear that Vickie My tail feathers and I can't wait to take the class. looking forward to it.

  13. #13
    Bugs66's Avatar
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    Their STC also allows the Staggerwing knot which is way faster and easier than Seine.

  14. #14
    Gene's Avatar
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    Jason,

    I would be interested in attending a TCOW kit class.

    Gene

    Hey DW are planning a new project?

  15. #15

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    Stits does allow a seam on a turtleback. But I am all for learning new stuff - maybe I'll try a wing.

  16. #16
    DW's Avatar
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    Hi Gene
    I have so many projects going on that every time I start working on one of them it's new, but as far as the cub I need to do some control surface recovering and in a few years (or sooner) the wings.

    DW

  17. #17

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    dvd's

    hi all
    i'm interested in getting dvd's on the stewart covering system

    please content me with a price thank you

  18. #18
    DW's Avatar
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    Re: dvd's

    pilotski


    Send a PM to jgerard he can fix you up.

  19. #19
    glaciercub's Avatar
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    jason, sent pm

    jason

    I sent pm for tape too and would like to know about class as well


    thanks

    paul

  20. #20
    Hap's Avatar
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    Any new developments or updates from folks using Stewart Systems? We have a Champ to re-cover, thinking a wing or 2 this winter but maybe start with an elevator . . .

  21. #21
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I've got some materials in transit. Will post some pictures.
    Steve Pierce

    "When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it."
    Henry Ford

  22. #22
    d.grimm's Avatar
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    I have a friend that has built about 7 airplanes. Went to his house and looked and helped cover a stabilizer with Stewart Systems. Did it in his basement with the family upstairs. Looks great and I plan on covering
    my Vagabond wings and tail with them.
    The only downside I saw was the appearance on the inside (AcroSport).
    It will take a coat of primer on the inside of the cockpit to make it look decent.
    Dave

  23. #23
    jgerard's Avatar
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    I have been experimenting with tinting the glue the same color as the primer to eliminate the visual that you're referring to. That way everything will be grey on the back side.

    Jason

  24. #24

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    has anybody using the stewart system noticed any performance changes good or bad? i noticed in the video their is nothing like a poly brush to tie the fabric together. a friend has it on his cub from 5 yrs ago and when it gets humid his fabric sags and he swears he didn't over heat it. other wise it sure seams like a nice way to go.

  25. #25
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Since the material is water borne, I'm guessing the overspray doesn't fall as dust. Is that correct?
    Gordon

    N4328M
    My SPOT: tinyurl.com/N4328M (case sensitive)

  26. #26
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    The Stewart Systems Eko-Fill does the same job as Poly-brush and Poly-spray. It fills the weave, fire retardant, UV protection, and primer for the top coat. The products applied to ceconite type fabrics have nothing to do with weather or not they sag when cold. That is completely based on how it was shrunk. Most of the time it's because it was over heated which causes the fabric to loose it's elasticity. It's getting much harder to find a good iron that will hold it's temp. The devise used to measure the temp of the iron also needs to be properly calibrated and checked for accuracy. A lot of the inexpensive inferred thermometers need to be calibrated for shiny 'vs dark surfaces. I do not use them for setting temps on the big iron.

    Regarding overspray, Eko-fill ends up like dust on the floor after spraying. The 2-part Polyurethane top coat sticks and gets quite tacky until dry. The floor of my paint booth changes colors often

    99% of problems that people have with ALL covering and painting systems is user related not product related. I still screw things up from time to time and it's mostly because I was not following the directions.

    Jason

    Jason

  27. #27
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Ok, then I know to tarp everything I don't want overspray on! I probably will use the Stewart system when the time comes. Thanks Jason.

    Other than nasty chemicals, does anybody have comparison info between Stewart and Airtech?
    Gordon

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  28. #28
    jgerard's Avatar
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    What kind of comparison are you looking for

    Jason

  29. #29
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Whatever might be known from first-hand knowledge; such as ease of application for a low-to-medium-experience painter, durability, appearance of finish. I've read all the promo materials I could find for both, and sprayed a little Airtech on my landing gear just to see how it would go (went very well, and I haven't done a ton of painting)
    Gordon

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  30. #30
    Hardtailjohn's Avatar
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    Jason's right on the money about user problems... another one that will get your fabric to sag is not to shrink it properly in stages. I've seen alot of people figure they could just skip the different temps and go right to the final shrink... and they have sagging problems...or like he says, they'll over temp it. One guy argued for hours about how careful he was to shrink to the right temps...but finally admitted that he'd done a bit of it with a heat gun in the hard to get to places.....
    Overspray from the topcoat is definately not going to go on dry... so cover what you don't want to have it on...'cause it's gonna be on there for a while, as it's not easy to get back off!! I've got a friend that still has it on some shop tools that were left out when he did a champ a few years ago.
    A quite a while back, there was talk on here of using the irons that they used for ski wax...did anyone go any further on that? If so, were the results good?
    John

  31. #31
    Rob's Avatar
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    12Geezer,

    My experience is limited to only one airplane with each... I can say that either is more user friendly than the "older" systems. The Stewarts system is probably a tad more user friendly and probably more so if you've never used any of the others. The glues are distinctly different than each other or the "older" stuff as well. I personally like using Airtech glue better, but as a whole so far I prefer the Stewarts system. I have no idea how either does in real long terms. My Airtech covered cub was trashed in a hail storm after just a couple years.

    Lots of systems claim to be user friendly in terms of chemical or odor. I can honestly say that if your wife was blind (or exceptionally understanding) you could get away with covering a plane with Stewarts in your living room. Unless you put you head in the container the glue has no odor... Not a big deal for the big shops, but for a do - it - yourselfer it comes in handy...

    Take care, Rob

  32. #32
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Gordon, There is some good info on Air-Tech on this site. If you put water on the floor you end up with a lot less overspray on the floor.
    Steve Pierce

    "When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it."
    Henry Ford

  33. #33
    this would be a title NimpoCub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob
    Unless you put you head in the container the glue has no odor
    That's good, but does no odor mean no harmful "stuff" in the air"?

    Dunno, I'm just wondering. I did Stitts PolyTack, and didn't find the glue overwhelming. But... the rest of the PolyCoatings were very obviously BAD for ya. As in... can't breath without the pressure mask on.
    Nimpo Lake Logan... boonie SuperCubber
    200mi (300km) from nearest stoplight... just right! - "Que hesitatus fornicatus est"

  34. #34
    Rob's Avatar
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    Hi Nimpo,

    Working with chemicals for a living had me wondering this very same thing. However the conclusion I came to is that things have to volatize to be "in the air" and being waterbourne makes the Stewarts system a lot less volatile. That's also why the overspray of the paint is still wet when it lands. Of course all of this is my opinion and could be very wrong, as could be the terminology... And of again all of this is directed towards the glue... the paint is in the air because we put it there, and you really don't want to do that indoors
    I will point out that the Stewarts ships in regular mail, no hazmat... This makes reordering that last little bit you need yesterday really nice. And confirms that at least someone else thinks it's fairly safe.

    Take care, Rob

  35. #35

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    Thank you Jason that is the answer i was hoping for. i like most am just a little nervous trying something new and our climate here is much like AK in the winter which is when my friend has his fabric get loose and i could not find anyone else in the area other then my one friend who had used it.
    thanks again.

  36. #36
    jgerard's Avatar
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    The poisons (Isocyanates) in Stewart Systems paint are encapsulated by the water that is used to reduce it to spraying viscosity. A respirator is used to keep the particulates out of your lungs. There is no need to use a fresh air breathing system with our products. It is the only Polyurethane paint that works this way, everything else is seriously poisonous.

    Jason

  37. #37
    upda lk's Avatar
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    Repairs?

    My wings are finished through cross coats of ekofill. I would like to put on some additional tapes. Clean it off with MEK?

    Thanks,

    Dave

  38. #38
    jgerard's Avatar
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    Just glue them down like you would on the bare fabric, wiping off the excess glue as normal and brush 2 coats of Eko-Fill over the top. You would never know that they were put on later. You can even just glue them down with Eko-Fill using the foam brush if you like.

    Jason

  39. #39
    d.grimm's Avatar
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    Jason,
    How do we repair it when done?
    Dave

  40. #40
    jgerard's Avatar
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    scuff it, glue it, shrink it, paint it.

    a 1" overlap is all that is required

    We have a clear glue that is great for making small repairs using the pre-painted circles you cut out of the inspection grommets. Remember that our glue works a lot like contact cement (no wet adhesion) coat both sides, let tack up, press togeather.

    Jason

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