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Thread: Breather Separators

  1. #41
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmboy View Post
    Since you revived this thread again, it seems to me that the first thing is to find ways to ensure proper operating temperatures, and then see the best way to address the venting. Just like a diesel needs 190 degrees, gas needs at least 160. My C-90's sweet spot seems to be 190-195 for the perfect combination of oil pressure and temperature. If you push over 200 oil pressure starts decreasing, and if you are under 160 oil pressure is cranked.

    On skiboats that run on private lakes as a bouyhead tractor, the oil change needs to be done at 25 hours instead of 50 because the engine will "make oil". Meaning that although the engine temp gets up to 160, the oil never reaches operating temp to burn off the blow-by, and therefore the oil level will increase on the dipstick due to the lack of burn-off.

    (Tournament type of private ski lakes are often just long enough for a ski course, and the boat will run 15-16 seconds at 34/36 mph, and then back to idle. Even doing this all day will never get the oil hot enough to burn off contaminants)

    Baffles, operating cowl vents, duct tape, foam inserts..... get it to temp.

    pb
    My C90 11 never made any heat with the flat prop it had. On a 90F day even hauling a ski diver to 10.5 at WOT all the way it never got past 165F. Zero F day I could fly all day and it never got to 100F. It got wrecked at 2200hrs and didn't have any corrosion inside. Flew almost every day April thru Oct and weekends after time change for winter. Don't worry about oil temps if you fly it regularly.

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  2. #42
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    I guess I'm old school. My perception is just that, my perception. I like them at my operating temp.


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  3. #43
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmboy View Post
    I guess I'm old school. My perception is just that, my perception. I like them at my operating temp.


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
    Then I guess your staying home below 20F?

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  4. #44
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Then I guess your staying home below 20F?

    Glenn
    Lol! Why no, coming out of bloody cold/windy Wisconsin at 20 gave me good temps with 2 strips of duct tape. When it warmed up into the high 20's I stopped and removed one strip.

    Seems like it worked pretty well.

  5. #45
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmboy View Post
    Lol! Why no, coming out of bloody cold/windy Wisconsin at 20 gave me good temps with 2 strips of duct tape. When it warmed up into the high 20's I stopped and removed one strip.

    Seems like it worked pretty well.
    I saw that your blocking air to the cylinder base with tape. I don't like that idea, not saying its wrong but not for me.

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  6. #46
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    Yup, we all have our methods.
    I believe I am restricting the volume entering the cowl rather than blocking any part or area. Even with proper baffles in place the rear cylinders have dramatically less "direct airflow" than the front cylinders. There is lots of area behind the nose cowl for air movement before reaching the case or cylinder bases. By slowing down the volume of cold air my perception is that the under cowl temp can rise to a more appropriate level.

    I apologize for the serious thread drift but I wanted to explain my reasoning in case others found any value.


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