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Breather Separators

skywagon8a said:
Interesting idea of which I would like to know more of what is inside. This type of device would need to be installed in an area which is always warm. If not the oil could congeal blocking the breather leading to other problems. Those of you who operate in very cold locations should give this some thought before making the installation. Maybe a small electric heater?

I've had a breather outlet freeze over and would not want a repeat. It blew out the screwed in dipstick on a Lycoming 0-320 with ALL of the oil blasting out RIGHT NOW.
Click to expand...

I bet that was fun!
 
Fortunately it was in a Colonial C-1 so the oil went on the tail instead of the windshield AND I was within gliding distance to an airport. Other than the mess, there was no harm done.
 
That small continentals I've seen the water separator discharge onto the exhaust pipe It looks like that works
 
There is a service bulletin on Pitts to drill a hole in the breather line. My solution is to live in Texas. Not much of a problem here.
 
Oil temps temps need to be at least 160 ° for an hour to get the condensation out of the oil. If the moisture stays, it mixes with the crap leftover from the combustion process and form acids in the oil and you get subsequent corrosion inside the engine. Getting the blowby out helps in the process. Tim
 
Since you revived this thread again, it seems to me that the first thing is to find ways to ensure proper operating temperatures, and then see the best way to address the venting. Just like a diesel needs 190 degrees, gas needs at least 160. My C-90's sweet spot seems to be 190-195 for the perfect combination of oil pressure and temperature. If you push over 200 oil pressure starts decreasing, and if you are under 160 oil pressure is cranked.

On skiboats that run on private lakes as a bouyhead tractor, the oil change needs to be done at 25 hours instead of 50 because the engine will "make oil". Meaning that although the engine temp gets up to 160, the oil never reaches operating temp to burn off the blow-by, and therefore the oil level will increase on the dipstick due to the lack of burn-off.

(Tournament type of private ski lakes are often just long enough for a ski course, and the boat will run 15-16 seconds at 34/36 mph, and then back to idle. Even doing this all day will never get the oil hot enough to burn off contaminants)

Baffles, operating cowl vents, duct tape, foam inserts..... get it to temp.

pb
 
Farmboy said:
Since you revived this thread again, it seems to me that the first thing is to find ways to ensure proper operating temperatures, and then see the best way to address the venting. Just like a diesel needs 190 degrees, gas needs at least 160. My C-90's sweet spot seems to be 190-195 for the perfect combination of oil pressure and temperature. If you push over 200 oil pressure starts decreasing, and if you are under 160 oil pressure is cranked.

On skiboats that run on private lakes as a bouyhead tractor, the oil change needs to be done at 25 hours instead of 50 because the engine will "make oil". Meaning that although the engine temp gets up to 160, the oil never reaches operating temp to burn off the blow-by, and therefore the oil level will increase on the dipstick due to the lack of burn-off.

(Tournament type of private ski lakes are often just long enough for a ski course, and the boat will run 15-16 seconds at 34/36 mph, and then back to idle. Even doing this all day will never get the oil hot enough to burn off contaminants)

Baffles, operating cowl vents, duct tape, foam inserts..... get it to temp.

pb
Click to expand...

My C90 11 never made any heat with the flat prop it had. On a 90F day even hauling a ski diver to 10.5 at WOT all the way it never got past 165F. Zero F day I could fly all day and it never got to 100F. It got wrecked at 2200hrs and didn't have any corrosion inside. Flew almost every day April thru Oct and weekends after time change for winter. Don't worry about oil temps if you fly it regularly.

Glenn
 
I guess I'm old school. My perception is just that, my perception. I like them at my operating temp.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
cubdriver2 said:
Then I guess your staying home below 20F?

Glenn
Click to expand...

Lol! Why no, coming out of bloody cold/windy Wisconsin at 20 gave me good temps with 2 strips of duct tape. When it warmed up into the high 20's I stopped and removed one strip.

Seems like it worked pretty well. :)
 
Farmboy said:
Lol! Why no, coming out of bloody cold/windy Wisconsin at 20 gave me good temps with 2 strips of duct tape. When it warmed up into the high 20's I stopped and removed one strip.

Seems like it worked pretty well. :)
Click to expand...

I saw that your blocking air to the cylinder base with tape. I don't like that idea, not saying its wrong but not for me.

Glenn
 
Yup, we all have our methods.
I believe I am restricting the volume entering the cowl rather than blocking any part or area. Even with proper baffles in place the rear cylinders have dramatically less "direct airflow" than the front cylinders. There is lots of area behind the nose cowl for air movement before reaching the case or cylinder bases. By slowing down the volume of cold air my perception is that the under cowl temp can rise to a more appropriate level.

I apologize for the serious thread drift but I wanted to explain my reasoning in case others found any value.


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
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