Less than 15 minutes later we slide sideways to the north a little before a gentle right bank lines us up on final for Noorvik’s sole dirt runway a mile and a half ahead of us and just beyond the lights of the village. As we cross the Kobuk and sail across the top of town at no more than 250 feet I am puzzled looking ahead in the darkness. For while the approach end of the dirt runway 11 is marked with a flare pot on each corner, the far end is only illuminated by one, which appears from here to be on the left side.
Judging from the crab angle and the ride down final the wind isn’t THAT bad that it should’ve blown one out. As I think this to myself the fourth smudge pot, marking the other corner of the runway illuminates and I realize that the village agent had only this minute lit it. He had barely beaten us to the runway which is no surprise. Morning time in the villages in winter is NOT exactly a hopping busy time.
We plop down withing fifteen to twenty feet of the end of the runway (it is said that if you place a sheet of notebook paper on the ground and weight it with a couple of rocks Jonesy will hit the PAPER on touchdown nine outta’ ten times supposedly) and Jonesy rolls the throttle handles forward to unlatch the reverse locks and SNAPS the throttles almost full aftwards launching the propellor blades to maximum reverse angle.
This literally causes the cockpit and cabin occupants (if there WERE any on this leg) to lurch slightly forward.
Just as quickly as the engines begin to increase to MAX thrust Jonesy slides the throttles forward, almost, but not quite out of reverse. The nose comes back upward off the (almost) bottom of it’s strut and the remaining forty or so knots of airspeed drops away quickly.
As Jonesy completes the transition from landing to rollout I watch for him to release the control wheel and grasp the nosewheel steering tiller which is quite INconveniently mounted on the left side of the yoke co-mounted with the control wheel.
I crank the control wheel hard left into the left quartering crosswind holding the yoke neutral as Jonesy steers the Twatter over to the right side of the dirt strip so that he might have the advantage of using the WHOLE seventy or so foot width of the runway to make our taxying course reversal. It is exTREMEly rare outside of either Anchorage or Fairbanks to find what might be termed a TAXIWAY anywhere in the state. You turn around and taxi back on the runways. Even in OME, OTZ and BRW. And at one end or the other of any given runway you will find “the ramp” or what passes as one in the villages.
Sure enough, just as we begin our U-turn, our landing lights illuminate Willie Morrison, the village agent for our airline, hurtling at damn near flying speed down the trail just off the side of the runway so as to beat us back to our parking spot. Behind him his sled bounces slightly up and down in the air, it’s only tied and bungeed contents it appears being a half a dozen mail sacks and three or four wrapped boxes....presumably more mail for town and points beyond.
Halfway through the turn, as the prop blast and the now becoming a quartering TAILwind fight for control of the huge elevator I decide the battle in favor of down elevator with my side of the yoke and hold it there until we again turn the aircraft into the wind on the “ramp”. The ramp which comfortably provides room for us to get the entire aircraft and wingspan OFF to the side of the runway is crowded with a dozen people and half as many snow machines and sleds. The addition of the Twin Otter literally fills it I note as I PRAY that not even HALF of these people want to get on. Otherwise Jonesy and I are gonna’ be humpin’ the whole damn load to rearrange the remaining mail and cargo to accomodate more than the three passsengers whose seats will be available along the back wall after we unload the Noorvik stuff.
Jonesy shuts down the left engine immediately but leaves the right engine turning to make the heat and engine generator provided electricity last as long as possible whilst I fill out the log book and fish out the appropriate paperworks co-mail envelopes, et al that must get off here.
Finally after hanging up my David Clarks on the overhead hook, unclipping my harness and zipping up my snowsuit I turn to Jonesy to tell him I’m ready and he can kill the other engine.
My mouth just hangs open as I watch Jonesy recorking his thermos and spy the styrofoam cup on the glareshield, steam rising slowly from it and the scent of good coffee just now reaching my nose. Sliding the dented and road weary HUGE thermos back to it’s resting place behind his seat he reaches into his breast pocket. Ten seconds later he’s sucking down a good drag on a freshly lit Winston and reaching for his coffee cup. Just aft and outside my door, four feet away, the right propellor continues to thrash the cold morning air in it’s fully feathered position.
Jonesy has started to raise his coffee cup to his lips but has sensed a lack of movement from the right seat for some many seconds now. Turning his head to the right he lays his eyes upon my motionless countenance, mouth still dumbly hanging open. Lowering the coffee cup only slightly, the old guy finally utters his SECOND word since first firing up the engines almost thirty minutes ago. With an accusatory tone in his voice I hear him say....”Well??!!”
As slow-witted as I may be sometimes...it FINALLY dawns on me that my name for THIS trip is Manuel. As in MANUEL LABOR!!
Biting my tongue I reach behind me and find the door handle and hold it open as I descend quite carefully and with a good grip on the doorframe as well. The frozen snow covered ground SHOULDN’T be slippery at this temperature...BUT I am taking NO chances as I step into the brisk northeast wind and the air stirred up by the propellor whishwhishwhish WHISHIHG the air only a couple of feet from my left shoulder now. Slamming the door shut with a good latching of the door handle I walk around the nose. Time to go to WORK again.



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I manage to it properly and am just sliding it into my left breast pocket about the time the Twatter’s knee-high Goodyears reconnect gently with Mother Earth.
The other three seated against the back wall lean out and over and exchange pleasantries as well. It is ALWAYS the way it happens and is repeated EVERY time you land at a village. Even if the villages are HUNDREDS of miles apart.
I mean...not that I got cold. Hell! I was sweating most of the trip anyway!! Although the difference when looking back thirty years versus looking back the last dozen or so MIGHT explain this “spare tire” around my middle. (More like a spare SET really!!)
...after all he’s a LEGEND (we’ll GET to that).....and try NOT to think about how damn BADLY I want a smoke and a cuppa’ hot COFFEE DAMMITT!!
(as I had begun quietly calling him to myself). Always he would be found atop the same stool smoking another Winston and drinking another cup of coffee. I figured his first stop upon re-entering the terminal at the end of a trip HAD to be the JOHN!!
ALL by MYSELF and we raced to accomplish the chores while Jonesy proceeded to the parking lot and fired up the company pick-em-up truck to allow IT’s engine and cabin to warm up....the temperature having plunged precipitously with the sun over two hours ago. Ambient must be no more than twenty or so and the wind is now blowing a steady fifteen knots out of the east. It’s gonna’ get COLD tonight.
) is an even WIDER door leading to the hotel’s bar where I expect to end up after dinner.
before raising it to his lips and draining the contents in TWO swift gulps. As he utters a long and hard sigh of satisfaction he sets the glass gently back in the spot from which he had lifted it and in a matter of five seconds the fluid level in the tumbler had been replenished. The bartender says he’ll be right back and Jonesy and I sit there in silence for a minute or so as we watch him find my rum and concoct a decent rum and coke which he brings and deposits in my bar space.
And he turns to holler at the bartender for another round before returning to the spine-chilling story he is relating to me and a half-dozen other pilots from our company and others who have come to wash the days cares and concerns away in what is generally for most of us a nightly alcoholic group hangar-flying and girl chasing ritual.
and about five minutes deep into the story as he had paused to take a sip of whiskey...having finally gotten his recalcitrent number one prop to feather....I asked just outta’ curiosity ya’ know, “So Jonesy...what wuz ya’ HAULin’??” And he turned to me and grunted one word. “Rice!”
Continuing I say “Now Nobody is gonna’ go to all THAT trouble for a load a’ rice. (Pause is met with silence from all) so WHAT was ya’ HAULin fer cryin’ out loud!!??”
I’ll give you five to one odds that Mr. Larson MUST have been riding with one of the multiple daily “scheduled airline” flight to this bustling metropolis of 280 hardy souls or so.
(MasterRod and I have passed a TIME or two.)
flew the leg that was destined to make the man....a walking legend.
and get him above the peaks again in a few short minutes after liftoff.
standing stock still watching as the bird metal bird came screaming out of the snow obscured arctic skies. And I really don’t know...’cause I don’t think they noted who screamed out the first response.
at me !!)
with a control wheel that may or may NOT be having it’s normal effects on the attached (we hope) surfaces.
and intensely focused as he “holds what he’s got”. A specific pitch attitude, power setting, and airspeed are producing a calm (for the moment) relatively relaxing period
as the Twatter descends toward the earth.
but somewhat comforted with four to five good miles of visibility in the now (again) light snow and Mother Earth no more than a mere three hundred feet away...(WHAT ! Like falling from three hundred feet and NINETY knots is gonna’ hurt LESS
than falling from three THOUSAND feet and a hundred and FORTY knots?!?!) Jonesy is now a test pilot experimenting briefly with the engines and control surfaces to discover how things are working NOW!!
The up and down movement would NORmally be limited by the wing to fuselage strut which now has an unintended kink/buckle in it allowing for an unWANTED freedom of movement.
There may have to be volumes I and II of the soon to be forthcoming "CloudDancer's Alaskan Chronicles" !!
Yeah. It'll be a peachy day for BOTH of us.
, and I'm Here to Help"

for their tutoring and guidance over the years.


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