Super Cub Gadgets & Gear

[SuperCub MD]

There is a lot of discusion being scattered around about different gear that is used by Super Cub types when using their planes for their intended purpose. How about a little gear review section for those of us who get out and use this stuff? Everything from wing covers and tie downs, tents and sleeping bags, rain gear and under wear, guns and fishin' poles. Thought I'd start it in the Cafe, if it takes off you could move it and split it up however you want sj, if it doesn't it will just go away.

[PA12driver]

MD! good idea, lets be specific as to brand, model # web addresses, phone numbers etc.

Perhaps one of the computer data base guru's good put out a template form to organize the data on??

Tim

[Ursa Major]

Great idea for a topic Mark.

I'll start out with the wing and engine covers on my cub. They are manufactured by Cunningham in WA state and available at Stoddards. I think Stoddards has a link to Cunningham on their web site.

The wing and tail covers are a poly mesh that you wouldn't think would prevent snow and ice from sticking, but they do. They will freeze down lightly but will easily peal off, taking most of the snow and frost with them. Being mesh, they let the wind blow through them rather than balloon. You don't have to fight the installation on a windy day like you would with non mesh wing covers. They dry quickly as well.

The wing covers have soft spoilers built in to prevent the plane flying at the tie down. On windy days, the cub sits there without bouncing around in the gusts. Some of my neighbors come close to breaking tie down ropes in heavy winds. Their wing covers often tear loose taking antennas and other bits or pieces of airplane with them. The only down side I see to mine is that you can't use them as a tent or shelter (since they are mesh) like you could with regular wing covers. I usually carry a tent so that has not been a concern.

The engine cover is very heavy duty and well insulated. It appears to be thicker than most of the other similar types available. It uses bungee fitted rubber balls fitting through loops to secure around the cowl. They can easily be installed while wearing heavy mittens. Fit and finish are excellent. If interested, take a look at the photos on page 77 and 78 of the supercub gallery. I'm sold on them.

[djfraudman]

The Northface expedition series of tents are excellant. http://www.northface.com/index_flash.html\
Northface also makes good gore-tex pants and shells.
Also try the Therm-a-Rest Luxury sleeping pads.
http://www.rei.com/online/store/Cate...goryId=4500449

[CubCouper]

A couple things that have been on my wishlist for awhile...

Wing and tail covers from Kennon Covers http://www.kennoncovers.com of Sheridan, Wyoming. They have both solid and mesh covers I believe, as well as a variety of sunshade products too.

An engine cover from Wiggy's (http://www.wiggys.com). I saw a nicely done review in Northern Pilot I think that showed the Wiggy's cover having the best heat retention of lot reviewed. Seems like it would be a great emergency bag too.

All the research I've done has pointed me this direction, but I haven't used either product yet. Any pluses or minuses on these particular brands?

I've got a closet full from Northface clothing... love the stuff! In particular their "Extreme Gear" is great. I use a goretex mountain-light parka (?) by itself for warm weather rain, with a zip-in goretex windstopper for cool days, and a zip-in heavy fleece jacket for the real cold stuff -- wore it snowmobiling in Yellowstone at -15 even.

[Ursa Major]

I've used the Kennon mesh wing covers. There doesn't seem to be much difference between them and the Cunningham covers. Either one should do a good job.

I've not used the Wiggy's engine cover, but I have used Wiggy's sleeeping bags. They are not as sleek, light or trendy as some of the other Bags (North Face etc.) but they are an excellent value, especially in very cold weather. I've used them in a snow cave at 40 below and been comfortable. Highly recommended. Their construction allows them to be compacted for long periods of time and still return most of their original loft. All of their bags can be mated with liners or overbags to make a heavier bag for more extreme conditions.

[PA12driver]

A good Axe is important in a cub, I have tried them all (I think) I found the 3/4 Eastman axe just right, it will fit in the underseat storage area and is heavy enough to use as a sledge for driving in tie downs, and or building a new spar if necesary!

Also Tiedown ropes: I use 1/2" braided gold line (however I am told that there is now a "kevlar" rope that is even stronger and is much smaller in diameter and lighter!

Flashlights: I use LED head lamps cause they last ten times as long as a "mag light" (I do have a mag light in the seat too)

I keep a "good first aide kit in the underseat" I will photgraph mine! It has suture material, and is the best quality I could find!

Sleeping bag: I carry a Northface "snoshoe" 0 degree bag that is made of "polarguard delta" synthetic fill, it weighs 3.8 oz and will keep you warm even if it gets wet! stuffs in a 8 x18 sack uncompressed! (I used to carry a -20 down bag in the winter in AK.

I recomend Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Northface and some of the REI branded Goretex raingear. (my choice is Fleece/polyprop layered under a goretex shell. I also carry waterproof pants and wear water proof boots suitable for the un-intentional hike out.
If you can still find the "korean war era Bunny boots" they are still great for winter wear on the feet!

Tent: I used a Northface "pole sleeve oval" for over 20 years--(no longer made) replaced with their VE25

I just replace it with a (last years model) Marmot Sanctum11 4 season tent- it weigs 7 lbs and fits in the extended baggage well.

Stove: buy a MSR! they are the only ones that I know of that burn any kind of fuel the new ones will simmer (sort ah) I just today replaced my GXR with a Wisperlite Internationale multi-fuel- stove
Available from REI and other better camping equipment retailers.

Survival weapon: this is personal choice and subject to the area you fly?
AR15/AK57 for those that fly in the city??
pistol grip shotgun: bear country
SS 357mag back of seat-my choice
or as an alternative possibly a AR-7 explorer by Charter Arms 22cal
This is a plastic stock long gun where the receiver, magazine, barrel take down and store in the stock (I am checking to see if it is legal to take through Canada???????

I will post pictures as soon as I can find time to put all in a place to photograph and compress for the web.

Tim

[Clay Hammond]

Gerber makes a very nice, compact and light hand/pack axe. The handle is composite and molded to the blade, very sturdy. Good balance.

[djfraudman]

There was some discussion about what kind of gun to carry in your airplane under Supercub gatherings thread. Although I have carried a 44 mag revolver in the airplane, it's not enough gun for a bear, but better than nothing and you can alway use it to shoot your self while the bear is eating you.

A good bear gun, which is also legal in Canada, is a 12 guage shotgun with a 18 1/2 in barrel and at least 26 in overall length with sights. Use this with slugs. For example
http://www.remington.com/firearms/shotguns/870MRMAG.HTM
or
http://www.remington.com/firearms/sh...0spstcrstg.htm
or
http://www.benelliusa.com/m1_tactical/
or something similar. Slugs are quite accurate out to about 150 yards.

[SuperCub MD]

I have the Eastman axe mounted in the Cub. Those little Gerber axes are nice, ....and sharp. I had a camping companion almost take a finger off with one, which brings up the well stocked first aid kit. I have started adding some items to mine from the local Vet. They make some nice little tubes of suture adhesive for critters, handy stuff. I also throw in a roll of Vet Wrap, that is the colored bandage that you see used on horse legs. It's better than any bandage that I have ever seen for humans.

I also have the Cuningham spoiler mesh covers from Stoddards, very nice.

Along with the Therma-rest matress, also get the chair kit they make for it. It turns the matress into a comfy chair for sitting around the fire. And if you are a hunter, get your matress/chair in a camo type color, it's great for sitting in a blind.

I've got the old MSR stove too, use it for pre heating the Cub, and cookin. I like the old models with the ridged fuel tube that goes to the bottle, it's more stable.

I think I have the same Northface bag as Tim, after a lot of hard use, the insulation is now flattened out and matted. When it was new, I could sleep outside under the stars when it was well below 0, and be very comfortable. Now I get chilled in it as soon as it gets in the single digits, even in a tent. My next bag will be good old fashioned down. Down breaks down after a lot of use too, but I haven't found anything yet that matches it for warmth and packability. I am not so happy with all the fancy new synthetics. I've gone through a lot of Gortex, like Mike said somewhere, it just wears out to fast. Give me canvas, wool, rubber and down anyday.

[CubCouper]

I carry a mid-size gym bag with the following items:

- Gerber Axe (call it a extra-large hatchet or a tiny axe -- it fits in the bag)
- folding camp shovel (also made by Gerber I think)
- tie downs -- 3 of those corkscrew dog-holder + 3 15' ropes.
- a 100' of 1/4 rope
- good first kit, augmented with some wilderness emergency gear like space blankets, wire saw, swiss army knife (with scissors!), fish hooks, flies & line, whistle, signaling mirror
- Power Bars and Beef Jerky
- 2 quarts of water
- a shaving-kit size tool bag (from Home Depot) with
a set of wrenches,
screw drivers,
pliers (vice grips),
screwdriver-type safety-wire twister,
collection of helpful parts (like a length of safety-wire, and a handful of nuts, bolts, cotter pins, and screws of common sizes),
minature bicycle pump, tire repair kit.
2"x3" piece of adhesive-backed Velcro
- small roll of duct tape
- 2 quarts of oil, a rag, and my pour spout
- 3-D cell flashlight and spare set of batteries
- 2-AA mini-mag flashlight
- LED keychain flashlight
- nomex gloves
- stocking cap
- assorted rags (white for the windshield, red for the engine)

This bag is ALWAYS in my plane. Whole setup weighs around 23-25 pounds. I rotate through this stuff all the time -- replacing the food, water, batteries, oil, etc. I figure there is enough stuff for most emergency repairs that I would know how to do, plus enough survival type gear to keep a couple people alive for 2-3 days.

If I'm going cross contry, I throw in the sleeping bag(s), tent (mine's an REI Half Dome), and MSR Whisperlite-Intl stove. This stuff is in a separate "camping" bag. I will usually wear a photographers-type vest (from Cabela's) while I'm flying longer trips -- it has a altoid-mint can size emergency kit in one pocket, pens, another LED flashlight, spare keys, etc.

I usually don't have a firearm here in Colorado, but I've been thinking about one of the 22-250/20g rifle/shotgun combinations as standard gear, maybe add a Marlin stainless guide model 45-70 if bears were a serious concern. My take on a firearm is that it is much more likely that I would use it for food than for protection, and small game is the more likely target - makes a handgun or big bore kinda overkill (pardon the pun). A 12-guage with a variety of ammo types would work well too.

Rod

[Gary Reeves]

Axe- I carry a Viet Nam Tomahawk. It makes a good ice axe too. Invest in a small saw if you want to cut enough wood to keep warm.

Although I always have my 44 mag with Garrett bear loads in the emergency grab bag, I carry a Marlin Guide Gun 45-70 Modified by Wild West Guns in Anchorage. It uses Garret plus P bear loads. They aare supposed to shoot end to end through a cape buffalo.

I change the emergency bag depending on the weather, but I keep it on the floor right behind the seat- so there might be some chance of using it.

A friend in Anchorage lined his baggage with foam and carries a wool blanket to spend the night on the duck flats - good idea.

Dittos on the mesh spoiler wing govers.

My hands sometimes get real cold: so I fly with the chemical (tea bag size) handwarmers in my gloves.

In winter I wear a Mustang snow machine survival jacket. It will float you and keep you warm in and out of the water. I have the bib pants too, but I had just been too warm to wear them.

Sat phone!

Gary

[Gary Reeves]

White out glasses!

I have found that Serengeti Summit glasses with the kinda purple lenses are the best for getting some contrast in white out or glassy water. They look like they belong on a snow boarder, but always hang in a floating foam case on my hydraulic ski pump handle. I just saw them in Costco for about $50.

Gary

[PA12driver]

As for saw? I still like the Wyoming saw! with meat, wood and metal blade, it has has Hacksaw like handle that won't take the knuckles off as fast as the wood!

That Gerber 'hatchet' is sharp, cute and good for splinters but the Eastman is worth the weight if you ever need to really make a shelter, fix a plane, clear a strip, "make a bridge" (done that). Gun? All good posts, for survival, small rounds, and lot of them give the best odds. Ptarmigan shot with a 45/70 leave little feathers and hardly any meat.

(ditto) on the 44mag with 2 rounds, (one for bear-one for self) suggest short barrel for accurate placement against the temple!

Brake fluide in a squeeze bottle!! also extra plug-and a tube of JBweld is not a bad emg repair for muffler, intake, and even a cylinder/case crack?

Tim

[FlipFlop]

Fly Ties...

"Simple construction allows quick insertion into the ground and quick disassembly. Rugged 5/16' x 18" penetrate the hardest soils. Rods are made of stainless steel and hub of Delrin. Kit includes 3 tie down assemblies, 3 high-visibility flags and stake extraction tool."

[SuperCub MD]

The 12 gauge is probably the best all around? Bird shot for survival, slugs for big critters. 12 gauge slugs will start bouncing off even small bones beyond 50 yards, but if you are in a defensive situation, like under 20 yards, the slug still has enough velocity to hit with a lot of power. A gunsmith friend used to build custom bear guide guns. Remington pump rifles chambered in 338, barrel and stock cut down to minimum, and rigged with a under arm sling.

For saws, I have the Wyoming saw, it is nice, but not very deep for cutting larger stuff. A good old cheap bow saw cuts more wood faster, weighs about the same, just doesn't fold up as small. I may be getting old and lazy, but if I have the room, I'll bring along my little Poulan chain saw. That way I can get the camp fire wood cut fast, and spend more time hunting, fishing, or whatever I came there for.

[StewartB]

I hate my mesh covers. They should come with 100 gallons of de-ice fluid. Alaskan Wing Covers' coated covers fit tight enough that wind doesn't bother them. If it blows too hard, I take them off anyway. AWC makes a great engine cover as well. Wiggy's are too bulky. If heat retention is the issue buy a bigger heater. All engine covers make good bivy sacks for your sleeping bag. Wing covers make a good tent. I can't cover wings with my tent, so guess which goes with me.

Tie-downs. Dirt....drive-in duckbills with 1/8" SS cable attached. $6.00 apiece. The bad thing? You can't pull them out. The good thing? You can't pull them out. Ice.....REI ice screws. Easy to use, unbelievably strong.

Gun. Mossberg 12 gauge shotgun. It'll kill anything from birds to bears. If you're in a survival situation, cold, tired, injured, you aren't the best shot. With my short 12 ga., who cares.

Axe. The cute Gerbers break in the cold. Estwing's are indestructable. A hell of a good hammer, too.

Stove. MSR XGK-II multi-fuel. Heats airplanes, coffee, hands, and works great with avgas.

Snowshoes. Tubbs with bindings, not straps. There are lots of good brands, but get bindings. Straps suck after the overflow freezes to them.

Clothing. NO COTTON IN WINTER. Polypropylene, polar fleece, whatever. Don't get cold and sweaty in cotton and expect to see morning.

Flashlight. Petzl Tikka LED headlamp, or similar. You can't put a maglight in your mouth when it's 20 below. Use a headlamp style with LED's. Then you can use your hands AND see.

Crown Royal. If you've got to sit on the ground, you may as well be happy.

Safe flying!

SB

[Gary Reeves]

Great advice and ideas. I'm going to print this thread out.

The best advice I ever got was from Leon Alsworth, both on flying and surviving. PRACTICE. Practice under every condition. Give your safety gear an annual too. Make sure it works and you know how to use it.




Gary

[Dave Calkins]

Great advice.

Add a satellite phone.

Springfield Armory M6 scout .22 hornet/ .410. It's light. If chambered in .22 long rifle instead of hornet, you can carry a whole lotta rounds in your pocket.

I've been carrying a foldable pruning saw lately, along with an axe. The better pruning saws are the ones with big teeth and are ground in a manner that leaves a kerf that the rest of the blade easily flows through.
Buck or Gerber makes a good one for less than $20.

Gore makes a new material called "Dryloft". It's very lightweight and perfectly suited as a goose down sleeping bag material. It'll cost you though. I've got one from Western Mountaineering that is a "large mummy" style that actually gives a guy some foot and shoulder room in his bag. Now you can have a down bag that can't easily get wet, like the "microfiber" (nylon) bags do.

Sage RPLXI. The 10 weight 9' 6" is IT. If you haven't flexed or fished this rod, don't even talk about fly rods for salmon until you have tried this one. No, you won't want to sword fight the guy bumping elbows with you on the bank of the river, but you have a SuperCub, so get away from the crowds. Sage is selling blanks too, if you roll your own flyrods.

Water filter. The new "squeeze-bottle" styles look simple, but I'm still using my old "Pur". It does the job.

Propane torch. The self-igniting ones with a piezo-electric sparker are nice. As long as it's not minus 40 deg. F. the thing will go good. Numerous uses!!

'Nuff said.

Dave Calkins.

[Ursa Major]

Great posts. I see SB's list is pretty much the same as the one I carry with the exception of the type of wing covers and brands of shotgun and alcohol.

One additional thing that I do carry in my pocket (and in the seat back) is one of those small butane micro torches (turbo torch is one brand) that will generate a flame up to around 1300 degrees C. If you can keep it warm enough to vaporize fuel (with body heat) it will produce an incredibly hot flame which can make fire starting easier. Cabelas sells them for around 12 -15 bucks. I used to carry containers of strike anywhere matches, but found, over time that the matches would deteriorate and fail to light. Life boat matches (that wont blow out) are another good thing to have. Always have a way to start a fire.

[Ken Grindlay]

MSR stove, ditto
Anything by Marmot is awesome, including the warrenty and service.
Wiggy's bag is ok, but the service is a joke. Mine came apart in the washing machine. He essentially sent it back with a frankenstien scar and acted like it was ok...it wasn't.
I use a Walrus 1 man tent. It is definatly the cats ass. I think they were bought out by MSR and are still available.
Sage or Scott flyrod and a shotgun and a bag of rice. All you'll need.
If the above line worries you, Mountain House tastes more like food than any of the others.
Thermarest makes a new thicker mattress that is a huge improvement over the one I've been using (now I can actually sleep the 1st night out).
If you haven't tried a Cutco knife yet, get one and leave all the others behind forever! Excepting of course the leatherman that goes everywhere.
Ken

[cubdrvr]

This is one of the best threads yet !! Atta boy SB.....another Crown fan in the bunch.
I've gotten a lot of good info here and the only thing I might add is that I get these prescription items from my Doc:
1) A good iodine solution for open wounds.
2) Effective short term(5 day) antibiotic pills.
3) Pills for severe pain.
4) Beaver fever pills (No alcohol with these puppies)
In addition to all the other first aid items necessary.

Bibler tent.....packs really small & no rain fly required....easy set-up
Marmot 0 degree bag.
I agree that Therm a rest is a great ground pad.

Dave C..........My brother is looking for an M6 for me as we speak. What was your reasoning to go with the .22 hornet over the .22 LR?

[murph]

In preparation for our Ak trip in June, I've just about maxxed out my credit cards on camping gear. Now you guys are naming off stuff that I don't have. I have plenty of guns. I have a new tent and good +15 sleeping bags, MSR stove, very cute little expresso maker, saw, hatchet, water purifier, mess kits, fishing gear and on and on..........

.........but I haven't yet approached the issue of clothing and rain gear. My question is, how cold and wet is it in AK in June? I know it's a big and diverse state. But generally speaking do I need a bunch of winter gear for June?

I'm about to break the bank and overload the cub. I'm at 1905 lbs gross now and not finished(I'm on a diet, too). And Mama says I can't have any more of her milk and egg money.

murph

[StewartB]

Murph,
You will need to allow for 40 at night, and 60's days. There isn't much night, though. Cheap rain gear, like Helly Hanson Impertech is perfect. Gore tex will be fine as well, but no sense in investing that much money for June up here. It usually doesn't rain much in June. But then, it usually is cold and snowy in the winter, so who knows? Your going to need bug dope. Lots of bug dope. And cigars. A water purifier is a necessity. A soft-sided cooler. Hell, anything you forget you can buy here. You're not hauling Texas beer the whole way are you? On the serious note, it is state law that certain items be carried in airplanes while flying here. There is a summer list, and a winter list. I'll try to find them and post them for you, unless someone knows of a link. A gun and ammo are required. All you guys need to check Canadian regs for carrying guns. Check the minimum N number size requirement, also.
Sweet dreams....

http://www.dot.state.ak.us/stwdav/akfly.html (I don't see the gun requirement. Where'd it go??)
SB

[Ken Grindlay]

Murph
Get some polartec long johns and tops, goretex pants, and a goretex shell (I like my waderlength flyfishin jacket). Do not wear any cotton at all, period, anywwhere including underwear!
Take all of your stuff and pile it up. Take out everything that isn't absolutly essential. Do not take six shirts, six pantrs, four pairs of boots, etc. Wear your boots, bring a pair of hippers or waders(sims goretex waist highs are my choice). One extra polartec shirt and long johns.
Now take 1/2 of the absolutly essential stuff out. If its cute...gone. If it might come in handy...gone. If it will make life easier or more comfortable...gone.
Now take out 1/2 of the Really Absolutely Essential stuff. Depending on your starting point you may be getting close.
You should be able to get it down to 50-60 lbs, including gun, flyrod, food, etc. Not to include the stuff you wear.
I hunt moose in the Brooks range each year, living out of a backpack. I have a list of everything I take. Anybody who wants it e-mail me at kengrindlay1960@yahoo.com
Ken

[Ursa Major]

I don't see the gill net requirement either. I've been looking for the web site too. The info used to reside on the FAA and Alaska airmen sites, but I can't find it. I'll keep looking.

Murph, you should check out the FAA site www.alaska.faa.gov/ata for terminal information around Anchorage -the airspace can get kind of confusing. Be sure to print out a copy of the local area "bulletin" before you hit Anchorage- it'll help. There are also a number of Alaska aviation related links at the Alaska Airmen's assoc. web site - www.alaskaairmen.com

[StewartB]

No offense Ken, I've lived here 36 years and never worn polypro or fleece in June. A tee shirt and blue jeans are the attire of choice. If it rains, you bitch that the raincoat is too hot. The only time you'll get cold is if the wind blows. Some light silk or poly underwear might be nice for sleeping, but I use a cocoon bag instead. There's nothing like peeing naked in the middle of the night with sunglasses on. For a fun trip I wouldn't worry about weight that much, either. Bring some comfort goodies. Have fun. I like a clean set of clothes every once in a while. Towns have laundry facilities. I also like to eat steaks and drink beer when I'm fishing. Hunting camp is for lightweight stuff and freeze-dried food. Fishing is for fun.
SB

[murph]

Hey guys:

I'm sorta slow, but if you don't wear cotton underwear, what do you wear? It seems to me that cotton would feel much better than nothing under those waders.

SB, you mean y'all have beer up there? Good, that saves me about 200 lbs. Now I can take some clothes.

murph

[Dave Calkins]

I read Ken's post and found myself nearly agreeing with it, then Stewart B's, and agreeing with IT.

I suppose a good balance would be best.

You can live in cotton in Summer. Just know that if you're a sweaty type (I am) you'd best have a change of clothes.

You can buy any of what you'll need here, too, so no worries at all.

I agree with Stewart wholeheartedly, Fishing is for fun, and you can afford a little weight in the niceties. Think about a camp chair WITH a back on it so you can be comfortable. Don't bring any fishing tackle. You'll need to get set-up with what works for a specific spot anyway. consider bringing fly AND spin or cast gear. Better yet, buy something good when you arrive.

Cubdrvr, the M6 in hornet and .410 was a gift from my dad. I guess he thought higher velocity AND more punch would be more the American way. I'd suggest .22 LR for a more all-around survival gun.

I have the list of stuff required by the State of Alaska for ops. here. I'll have to transcribe it though, so will wait 'til later tonight.

I'm getting excited for you guys to make the big hop.

Dave Calkins.

[Ursa Major]

I found the link describing survival gear requirements. Try http://www.alaska.faa.gov/flytoak/fl....htm#emergency

Yes murph we do have beer, and in my opinion, its a whole lot better than Lone Star or Pearl. Some of the local stuff is pretty tasty. Before you fly into some of the villages you do need to check on their status. Some villages are "dry" and importation of alcohol (even for private consumption) is illegal. You can be jailed for "bootlegging". Ask at FSS for information on village status.

[PA12driver]

Now I know why they made the Beaver! I agree with you all! especially on the loading part. My proceedure for the cub goes something like this!

get a piece of paper make up the list of stuff you think you would like to take (in addition to the basic survival gear!) Pack it where it goes(always in the same place)

start making piles: Clothes, food, campgear, photography, batteries, etc.
then when you think you got it all, pile it in a few milk crates (preweighed) and weigh the whole pile! add that to the empty weight, plus your fat a@@#s, full fuel, (including gas cans if necessary)

If the whole shitery weighs less then 2000lbs you are good to go! Now the fun begins, Sort the crap out again, lightest stuff to the heaviest stuff. (as for me in my PA12 the 3 fives are going to get strapped to the rear seat or on the floor behind the rear brakes.

Put the lightest stuff you don't have to get to in the Extended baggage and work your way forward. (don't get carried away, clear in the back!) you should have already flown your plane (alot) with this kinda load if you are going on this trip (loaded).

as you load you will start to realize alot of stuff you (can live with out!) so throw it in a seperate pile. packing a cub is an Art not a science-- you got to get real good at filling spaces up and forgetting all those cute little bags--Garbage sacks work good, and stuff sacks!-- Critical to remember is to secure the load as you go!

I don't worry about speed, as that was forgotten when I bought my first cub! so I don't have a problem putting the fishing rod, gun or something else long and bulky out on the strut. I would suggest anyone thinking of making a long trip in a cub, practice loading up and take the kind of stuff you think you would use, out for a few days and sort out what works and what doesn't.

Just like flying the plane, gear planning and loading take practice too.
If you are planning to fly up with someone with you (Murph) you will need to really buy lightweight and share as much as you can!

Plan on cooking in one pot! and take minimal clothes to be comfortable-- It is a fact that the bugs like clean guys better then ones that "are one with the woods". Again as was said by others, alot of the stuff you need that you forgot, or is "Alaska specific" you can get up there!

the essentials are Dry feet, dry ass, and food and Beer!( I mean liquids) the stove of choice is obvious MSR that will burn AVgas!
Here are a few pictures of some good gear!
I will in the next couple weeks pull my friends "stock cub" in the hanger with all the gear he take for a week at a time in the cub "with his 220lb DAD. I will pull it all out and photograph it--I think it may help some folks?

Oh How I love the Freightliner--only problem is I can overload it pretty easily! The Supercub usually runs out of "physical space" before weight becomes an issue! (if one guy can pick up the tail with busting a nut it will fly)





Lightweight Gortex boots that are a joy to fly in!


Not necessary in June!


Stove of Choice or the GXR model that was mentioned also!

(packe up shot of the Marmot "Sanctum11 tent")-Great little tent if you can find one!

[murph]

Great post, Tim. We've made a preliminary weight at 1905, but we don't yet have raingear or hiking boots included. I'm hoping the new re-cover on the plane will get me below 1050 empty wt.

murph

[PA12driver]

murph! that will be an awefully light cub!! I am impressed, my 29's only weigh 33lbs each? How is the plane coming?

Tim

[StewartB]

Since we've established there is a difference between going really light and not light, a couple of other comfort items come to mind. A cot. There isn't a ground pad made that compares to a cot, and there are some compact, light cots out there. Smooth, level ground can be hard to find. A tent footprint, since Alaskan ground is wet even when it's dry. Rope to sling your food up in a tree so the bears try to knock the tree down at night, instead of your camp. Did I mention bug dope?
SB

[jk]

Good Stuff!! Here's my two cents....if its a survival situation the best "tool" is whats on top of your shoulders. Let the panic or the sacred feeling get you for a minute and then sit down and deal with it! Knowledge and then tools. If its camping ( huntin and fishin) don't sweat the little stuff, enjoy it and make do. Be creative. Speedy Sticher, an awl based sewing system thats works on all stuff from wings to tents or whatever , even fishin. Black electrician tape, a muzzelcover making waiters out off your pants. H20 proof. I tend to slow down my reation process to think of the concequences of my actions before they become bad, you know like always cutting away from your limbs or never use your knee to cut and whittile that fishin pole or hot dog stick. The little stuff all seem to add up to one big ah shitt... and last not least a little bit bigger bottle of crown to celebrate landing that 65lb king on a 6 weight with the fly you tied.. Big bulls in the cross hairs and tight lines forever.... a 44 will take down bears...

[mmr]

VERY GOOD POINT !
Always think in the realm of action versus reaction

Mark

[Anne]

I've got a great 2-person tent from Eureka - with the nylon ground tarp and rainfly it's only 5 lbs. The rainfly includes a little vestibule, which is a nice place to put wet or dirty shoes. Eureka's very reasonably priced, easy to put up, and durable.

I used to use a 3/4 length Thermarest, but now that I'm a little older, I use 2 of them, one on top of the other. They pack down very small and light, and are easy to inflate (they inflate themselves, then you add a little bit to fully inflate it).

I use a down pillow at home, and when it's lost a lot of its feathers and I buy a new one, I just save the old one for camping. I used to stuff a sweatshirt in a little bitty flannel pillowcase that I had made, but the down pillow is a lot nicer.

A Coleman Peak 1 stove is the best. It puts out the most heat per unit of fuel, and has a built-in windbreak. Easy to light and adjust, too.

When you put the fishing rod on the struts, do you strap the bare rod to them, or do you somehow strap on a tube then put the rod in the tube? Do you put it near the fuselage or farther out? If you use a tube, how do you attach it?

Anne.

[mrpolaris]

These are all great posts.
I have purchased some great equioment in the last year.
A good site I found for close out prices on camping gear is sierratradingpost.com I found a 40.00 foot print for my tent for 9.95
I like the SOG tool a lot better than the leatherman Small Co. in Lynnwood WA. Lot smother Better material. As far as the Sage rod I agree 100% but I rether go for the 5-6WT personal Preference.
My qustion for everyone is do you have lists of what you cary in your tool kit?
Tim I looked up the MRS stoves but the only one I found that burns any fuel is the MSR XGK is this the one you mean.
O almost forgot CROWN & JACK a must for survival. Lots less #s than beer
Mark

[mmr]

I personally like the good old air mattress.
When you're packing lite, you can always
count on being "lite headed".

Mark

[Dave Calkins]

If you can afford it, and who can't?.....look at the tags and only buy American.

Some of the very nice, high end camping gear is Made in CHINA.

Yes, we're bankrolling them.

Western Mountaineering sleeping bags are THE best. Made in USA.