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What Breaks?...Common faults, not commonly known.

wing tip bow

T.J. Hinkle said:
Used to use electrical emt conduit until we found out it wasn't PMAed. :D
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TJ I ask the guestion because an A&E here in Fl. used CPVC pipe for the bow and I was wondering if that was legal. It sure look better than the wood.

ww.cubframes.com
 
I think CPVC will shatter with a sharp, yet not very hard blow? Also, I think it will creep (take on a permanent deformatin) over time with a constant, small load applied. I know the above are true for PVC, and I think so (but am not certain) for CPVC, so I'd want to do some testing before trying an install. It may work great - I'd just want to check it out thoroughly first. Elimination of corrosion and rot problems would sure be a plus.
 
wing tip bow

12 Geezer said:
I think CPVC will shatter with a sharp, yet not very hard blow? Also, I think it will creep (take on a permanent deformatin) over time with a constant, small load applied. I know the above are true for PVC, and I think so (but am not certain) for CPVC, so I'd want to do some testing before trying an install. It may work great - I'd just want to check it out thoroughly first. Elimination of corrosion and rot problems would sure be a plus.
Click to expand...

From one Geezer to another, I had a pc. of cpvc over head in my shop from 1997, wall thickness by my calliper.080, I hit it with a hammer and it did shattered, I did hit it guite hard. So I guess the answer is, don't use any thing but wood.
 
Dayum. I am afraid to look at my airplane now. It might fall apart in the chocks. Seriously, some great information here. Thanks to everyone that is contributing.
 
Try nylon washers on the Wip float hatches to cut down on electrolysis corrosion around the screw heads.

Really just needed a reason to bring back this great thread before leaving the tools at home and heading for 8D1.
 
Joe, If I leave the tools at home I need them and if I take them I don't. :eek: I'll bring them but hope I don't need 'em. I got a 3 year old that loves float planes. I bet you and he will get along good at NH. :D
 
sudden rupture of a brake diaphram while landing in a crosswind. Tailspring bolt getting loose. Internal muffler parts floating aroung and blocking exhaust. Plugged gas cap vent collapsing the gas tank.
 
The obvious one: make sure the cowling is adjusted correctly, first by ensuring that the diagonals on the bottom channels have set the nose bowl in its proper position, then by ensuring that side doors are positioned so they don't eat little smiles in that very expensive nose bowl.
 
Speaking of the cowl, it always bothered me that the front oil cooler was the 'up stop' for movement of the nose bowl, and to make it worse, the front oil cooler bracket was crooked (on every cub I looked at!), so the port side was trying to wear a hole in the nose bowl. I fixed it on mine by rewelding the bracket so that the cooler was level, and fastened two 1/8 inch thicknesses of RTV baffle material under the cooler. I don't know of any oil cooler leaks or failures, but it creeped me out, and still does.
 
Should be a law that says put the oil cooler elsewhere. Every time I look, the cowl is being eaten alive and the steel braces are cracked. Stupid thing is held by the hoses most of the time.

We have a nice 160 HP with cooler behind the left bank of cylinders. Runs really cool, according to the Piper gauge.
 
Bob, I'd like to learn where and how it runs cool....every baffle-mounted cooler I've seen up here in the high desert is HOT! :onfire:
 
What breaks

Has the "new" aluminum Niagra cooler helped reduce problems with the nose bowl mounting brackets? It's lighter by quite a bit. I've replaced two brackets and thought that the lighter cooler would help.
 
Well, if it's not as tough as the old copper oil cooler, it might be less reliable. By mounting the cooler straight and resting it on 1/4 inch of RTV baffle material, I haven't seen any wear on it, or the baffle RTV stuff....
The reason I did it that way is that RTV rubber is an elastomer....it acts like a spring in parallel with a shock absorber...so it absorbs vibration energy. If it wasn't, the rubber would be wearing away, and it's not.
 
Bolt holding clevis on flap lever was installed incorrectly.

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If your spinners screws are continuously loosening you might want to check your engine and have it dynamically balanced
 
Baffles in a Charlie Center 0-360 conversion 631 hrs both mufflers broke, one you couldn't tell and the other I saw a crack in the baffle. Both were in a spot that would NOT cover the exhaust port.

Doug

image.jpgLooking in the intake side and the baffle is broken but will not cover the exhaust port of the muffler.
image.jpgLooking up the exhaust pipe, note the cracks
 

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Colorguns said:
Baffles in a Charlie Center 0-360 conversion 631 hrs both mufflers broke, one you couldn't tell and the other I saw a crack in the baffle. Both were in a spot that would NOT cover the exhaust port.

Doug
Click to expand...

Doug, thanks for the post: Some of us are visual. Could you post pitchers?

Thanks. cubscout
 
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