Pre Heaters
- Thread starter Ursa Major
- Start date
Excellent choice and with a 1000w Honda generator your can pre-heat most anywhere.
mvivion
SPONSOR
Bozeman,MT
For years I regularly used the Tanis system on a couple of airplanes. Then I worked a couple planes with the Reiff systems installed. I really liked both systems for reliable, safe pre heat. I installed a Reiff system on my personal plane. these engines were regularly started outside at temps regularly below -20 F, and often as low as -40F after proper pre heat.
Ive also pre heated with a half dozen other "tools", none of which were as good, safe and reliable as the Reiff or Tanis systems in my opinion.
A couple of points:
As Stewart discovered, Reiff and Tanis each sell two different temperature rated systems. In cold temps, I want SERIOUS heat.....be sure to order the "high heat" version, whether dealing with Tanis or Reiff. The lower rated systems aren't worth the trouble.
If you have or ever plan to install a graphic engine monitor, buy a Reiff system, not a Tanis system. The Tanis probes occupy the cylinder head bayonet receptacles. If you have a multi probe CHT, the CHT probes will have to be exchanged for spark plug gasket sensors, which are NOT accurate, and generally a PITA.
As Dave posted earlier, the cylinder bands on the Reiff system works better than the Tanis probes, in my opinion.
If you're thinking about installing just a silicone heat pad, install one that's designed to be installed on an aircraft engine, and that is thermostatically controlled. E Z Heat is a good one. Understand that it'll take a bit longer to heat your engine than a full system but.....
A good, close fitted engine cover is really helpful in heating. And if you're parked somewhere and want the motor to stay warm. Sleeping bag, moving blankets, etc all help as well, but a good engine cover is the ticket.
Take your time heating......it's a slow process, and remember, it's the CORE of that engine you want nice and warm, not just the parts you can touch.
MTV
Ive also pre heated with a half dozen other "tools", none of which were as good, safe and reliable as the Reiff or Tanis systems in my opinion.
A couple of points:
As Stewart discovered, Reiff and Tanis each sell two different temperature rated systems. In cold temps, I want SERIOUS heat.....be sure to order the "high heat" version, whether dealing with Tanis or Reiff. The lower rated systems aren't worth the trouble.
If you have or ever plan to install a graphic engine monitor, buy a Reiff system, not a Tanis system. The Tanis probes occupy the cylinder head bayonet receptacles. If you have a multi probe CHT, the CHT probes will have to be exchanged for spark plug gasket sensors, which are NOT accurate, and generally a PITA.
As Dave posted earlier, the cylinder bands on the Reiff system works better than the Tanis probes, in my opinion.
If you're thinking about installing just a silicone heat pad, install one that's designed to be installed on an aircraft engine, and that is thermostatically controlled. E Z Heat is a good one. Understand that it'll take a bit longer to heat your engine than a full system but.....
A good, close fitted engine cover is really helpful in heating. And if you're parked somewhere and want the motor to stay warm. Sleeping bag, moving blankets, etc all help as well, but a good engine cover is the ticket.
Take your time heating......it's a slow process, and remember, it's the CORE of that engine you want nice and warm, not just the parts you can touch.
MTV
cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
I use a 100w light bulb in a drop light, 2 if it goes below -10 at night and an engine cover.
Glenn
Glenn
nanook
MEMBER
northern alaska
This is an 11 year old thread! The lightbulb in the trouble light reminded me of this green A&P that showed up to work on a job almost 30 years ago. We had 5 single Otters on wheel skis working a seismic survey in Alaska. I was replacing a cracked exhaust pipe on the 1340 and the green guy was doing 100hr stuff. When I glanced underneath the engine the new guy had the fuel strainer just about free with a trouble light hooked below. I yelled don't pull the strainer till you move that light! He did anyway and when the ice cold avgas hit that old style light bulb it exploded. The shocked look on that guys face was something to behold, because the fuel didn't ignite and he realized that he should be dead-cooked-to-well-done...
The simplest way to preheat without installing a bunch of expensive stuff on your engine is a 900W "Little Buddy" heater. The 1000W Honda runs it just fine out in the field. Just put it low under the cowling and throw the engine blanket on.
The simplest way to preheat without installing a bunch of expensive stuff on your engine is a 900W "Little Buddy" heater. The 1000W Honda runs it just fine out in the field. Just put it low under the cowling and throw the engine blanket on.
B
Barnstormer
The Tanis probes on my 185 replace one of the rocker cover bolts, so they don't interfere with the sensors for my EDM. Looks like their 4-cylinder kits do the same. To quote Tanis "This preheat kit is compatible with all engine monitor systems as the threaded heat elements can replace either a rocker cover screw or intake bolt fasteners."
Perhaps Tanis made a change to their design some years back.
Attachments
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I have a tanis on my Super Cub and recently broke a probe wire off a heating element while doing maintenance. While talking to Tanis I askd about installing an engine monitor and found out they have heater elements that go in the rocker cover screw holes.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I didn't read far enough before I posted. Thanks Phil.
B
Barnstormer
I came across this product in a thread at Alaska Outdoors Supersite forum. Have no personal knowledge of the product. Anyone have any experience with it?
http://www.maxpreheat.com
http://www.maxpreheat.com
My own preheat preference is tailored to my preheat requirements and experience. Reiff is the clear fav among my flying friends who don't have hangars, especially those who park around me in the no-electricity neighborhoods at Lake Hood strip and at the cabin. Start the generator and walk away for a couple of hours. It beats the heck out of the other choices for my set of conditions.
mvivion
SPONSOR
Bozeman,MT
The Tanis probes on my 185 replace one of the rocker cover bolts, so they don't interfere with the sensors for my EDM. Looks like their 4-cylinder kits do the same. To quote Tanis "This preheat kit is compatible with all engine monitor systems as the threaded heat elements can replace either a rocker cover screw or intake bolt fasteners."
Perhaps Tanis made a change to their design some years back.
Phil,
Thats good news.....Glad they figured that out.....was the only beef I ever saw with Tanis systems. Glad they fixed it.
MTV
NunavutPA-12
FRIEND
67.8N,115.1W CYCO Canada
Their web-site doesn't say where the 12-volts comes from. I don't imagine that it would be wise to connect a 10-amp load to your starting battery and walk away for a few hours. Or do they expect you to carry a big 12-volt battery in the 'plane? The battery would probably weigh more than a small generator to run my Reiff system. And a 10-amp load means you only have 120-watts to heat the engine. I don't know if you'd EVER get the engine warm with so little power.
Electronics International lists a CHT probe that shares the cast-in CHT well with the Tanis cartridge heaters. Since the cubscout 'Cub came to me with full Tanis preheater (CHT wells and sump), I'm considering ordering up a set of these--I already have a panel CHT-EGT-Carb Temp instrument in my spare parts drawer. This looks like a win-win-solution, although the REIF system has a solid reputation, too. Does anyone have experience with these? Part number is P102-3/8. Here's a link to EI website:
http://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/cht-catalog-web-ok.pdf
Thanks. cubscout
http://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/cht-catalog-web-ok.pdf
Thanks. cubscout
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I think this is it. I need to do this and install a CHT.
http://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/P-102-38.pdf
http://buy-ei.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/P-102-38.pdf
SkwentnaMan
Registered User
Wasilla,AK
Yes Tanis has changed the probes, they now can go into the intake tube screws or rocker cover screws in both 4 and 6 cylinder engines. One thing I really like about the Tanis is the 1000 watt Honda will run it no problem, only uses about 250 watts. Also you can leave it plugged in for days with no issue and very little electric cost. Say you want to go flying and you plug in the night before and weather or something comes up not a big deal to keep plunged in, or if you just fly on the weekends, plug in when you leave and engine is warm when you come back.
NunavutPA-12
FRIEND
67.8N,115.1W CYCO Canada
I have a total of 625 watts on my engine with the Reiff system (100-watts on the cylinders, 200-watts on the oil sump and 25-watts on the oil cooler). The 1000-watt Yamaha runs it all without any problem and it heats the engine in less than four hours at -50 wind chill temperatures with an insulated engine cover.
I run a 6 cylinder Reiff turbo xp with 2 sump pads on my 180 with a 1000w Honda with ease...
Last edited:
cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
Thanks, Steve: That's the link I was actually looking for. The other E.I. link has some good general background on CHT measurement.
Thanks. cubscout
RaisedByWolves
FRIEND
Tx
Tractor supply has a 150w heat lamp bulb.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
I read it last night and learned a lot. Thanks for the link.
Crash
GONE WEST
Nikiski Alaska
Best pre-heater (if you have power) ever made! Slip it inside the cowling with an engine blanket. It as a 70F degree thermal cut off built into the cord, leave it on 24/7. I've used it down to -40 degrees on my C-180. No big bundle of wires and connectors to deal with. No glued on heating pads. No weight when not in use. Only 300 watts to run
Tanis used to offer them as a "cabin" heater until they got the word guys were using them as their main engine pre-heater. They then jacked the price way up, then discontinued them when that didn't work.
http://www.supercub.org/photopost/data//769/medium/IMG_1121.JPG
Crash
Tanis used to offer them as a "cabin" heater until they got the word guys were using them as their main engine pre-heater. They then jacked the price way up, then discontinued them when that didn't work.
http://www.supercub.org/photopost/data//769/medium/IMG_1121.JPG
Crash
What's your experience with corrosion after leaving an airplane heated 24/7?
mvivion
SPONSOR
Bozeman,MT
Nope. Those Tanis heaters are very different than the Little Buddy heaters. They are a bit thinner and a bit larger in horizontal dimensions. I bought one to warm the cabin (mostly the instrument panel) of a 206 when Tanis first came out with them. A very nice heater. I used it in a couple "borrowed" airplane's that were based in Anchorage and had the "low heat" version of the Tanis engine heaters. In real cold, this worked great. Problem last I saw them was as Crash noted, they're outlandish expensive. I'll bet Tanis buys them somewhere and rebrands them. They are a very well made unit.
Ive still got a Little Buddy as a back up. And a heated hangar as primary....8)8) Did the wing covers/engine cover/pre heat dance waaaaay too many years in waaaay too much cold, with too many frost nipped fingers/nose, etc.
MTV
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