8GCBC
Registered User
Oahu
Geeze, if you waited until the oil was warmed, you could save four cycles. ;-) Just think of how much longer your prop would last!
With the hours I fly, I'll never get to zero TBO. :lol: Not by choice.
Geeze, if you waited until the oil was warmed, you could save four cycles. ;-) Just think of how much longer your prop would last!
Prop shop told me cycling the prop on the ground was hard on them. He said move it just enough to verify it is working.
Yep, verify function, and if in cold weather, it circulates some warm engine oil through the prop hub.
I've never found anyone who could tell me a legitimate reason to cycle props more than once during pre flight.
MTV
I have heard the same thing as Steve, yet I was not told why or how it damages the prop.Prop shop told me cycling the prop on the ground was hard on them. He said move it just enough to verify it is working.
Yep, verify function, and if in cold weather, it circulates some warm engine oil through the prop hub.
I've never found anyone who could tell me a legitimate reason to cycle props more than once during pre flight.
MTV
Two good reasons to cycle the prop during run up. I was taught to always cycle the prop to replace the cold oil with warm. Another reason, which I found because I did not cycle a 2B20, is that the oil can drain out of the cylinder leaving air. The prop will cycle during take off until the air is gone. You would not want this in a short field. Perhaps there is a reason not to cycle the new style props. I would like to know the reason? I will always cycle a HS prop of any size.Had an old counterweight HS that had the counterweights set up too tight and if you didn't make sure they were loose on the ground and verify by cycling before takeoff you might wind up with a fixed pitch prop. Taking off one morning in the dark, I remembered, about half way thru the light downwind takeoff roll with a full load, that I had forgotten to cycle the prop.
Never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever will I ever again abort a perfectly good takeoff roll downwind.
Still working great, on average about 70 to 100 hrs between recoats. Less then 40 bucks for that, and a couple hours work total, counting prep (soap and water wash). Still using Herk. No roughing up with sandpaper needed. The first time I used Zylene to clean, not sure it was needed, the stuff sticks great. Don't worry about hitting the sidewalls, after a few coats you'll know where you need it most, where the wear patch is.
It's like covering an expensive pair of dress shoes with cheap boots. Zero drawback that I can see, certainly nothing dangerous. These should be the last pair of Airstreaks I buy, short of something real ugly happening, it seems to eliminate wear. The sidewalls still get a workout, and I suppose the tire can still wear, but it's going to take quite a while. Mines hangared BTW.
I remember that Phil Zinck had BWs that the bed liner was peeling off a few years ago. Timmy did his tires with bed liner 8 or 10 years ago and it has held up great. Remember if it doesn't stick that great then what are you going to do next. I followed Tim's recipe. I sanded them till everything on the surface has a cross hatch pattern on it. I then cleaned then with Xylene till the while rags stayed clean. Then I scuffer then up again and cleaned them again. I rolled on 4 coats 8 hrs apart, you need to stir the can every time you pour some out. So far working great
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Herculiner-...ash=item56797010c1:g:9OQAAOSwnLdWqRWb&vxp=mtr
Glenn
And do it on the rim with the air pressure you plan to run in the tire!
I'd be interested to know how much rubber is on a new set of bushwheels. Like how much in thickness wears off before you see thread. like a half inch?
Very curious.
actually just spoke to ABW it's 3/16 standard and 1/4" with the extra treadI think more like an 1/8"
Glenn