Generator is self exciting, alternator is not so it will need battery voltage to be able to start charging.My EarthX has gone dead a few times when the gremlins left the master on for a week. I just hand prop and it charges back up
Glenn
Generator is self exciting, alternator is not so it will need battery voltage to be able to start charging.
Sometimes alternators will self-start on a dead battery, though it may take a few minutes, depending on how much residual magnetism is left in the rotor. I see no reason why you couldn't add a tiny magnet to the alternator, say, enough to generate one amp or so without any field current applied....securing the magnet to a rotor would be the tough part. Easier and safer to carry a jump starter battery, all the field needs is two amps for a few seconds.
I would think that it would depend on whether or not there is a master battery solenoid in the circuit. If there is no solenoid there may be enough residual power left in the battery to start the alternator. If there is a solenoid then there may not be enough power to close the contactor so that the alternator will be excited.Sometimes alternators will self-start on a dead battery, though it may take a few minutes, depending on how much residual magnetism is left in the rotor. I see no reason why you couldn't add a tiny magnet to the alternator, say, enough to generate one amp or so without any field current applied....securing the magnet to a rotor would be the tough part. Easier and safer to carry a jump starter battery, all the field needs is two amps for a few seconds.
I would think that it would depend on whether or not there is a master battery solenoid in the circuit. If there is no solenoid there may be enough residual power left in the battery to start the alternator. If there is a solenoid then there may not be enough power to close the contactor so that the alternator will be excited.
Agreed, but how many systems are planned to be operated with a dead battery?Absolutely right. But, if one installs a simple momentary emergency bypass switch to bypass the master relay, then you should have enough residual voltage to excite the alternator unless the battery is absolutely stone dead. Once the alternator starts charging and the voltage comes up, the master relay will latch closed.
Could you please elaborate on that some? Thanks.The big question will be whether I go electronic. I've talked to several good engine guys in the past few days. The range of opinions about ignitions varies more than anything engine related I know of.
.... The range of opinions about ignitions varies more than anything engine related I know of.
The leaning thing applies to Pmags, too. If I go Light Speed I anticipate the Hall Effect sensors. Anyone familiar with those? I may just stick with mags and try to convert to automotive wires and plugs. Another option.
In my experience, Slick mags are still having problems with timing drift, as of one year ago. The quality of the parts seems suspect too. To be fair these were not brand new. They were a QAA rebuild with all "genuine" parts. They both drifted 7 degrees in the first 50 hours. If Bendix mags fit my lowered mount I would have them. Been there, tried that but ended up with Slicks.My recently deceased engine had dual Pmags. My next one will arrive with dual impulse Slicks. I'm not sure whether the Pmags will get a replay. If I go back to electronic ignition I'm favoring Light Speed. Simple and effective. The big question will be whether I go electronic. I've talked to several good engine guys in the past few days. The range of opinions about ignitions varies more than anything engine related I know of.
If Bendix mags fit my lowered mount I would have them. Been there, tried that but ended up with Slicks.