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Push rod tubes leaking oil.

texmex

texmex

MEMBER
Hanging Rock, Australia.
C180J with an O-470 R.

Last weekend I (a friend and I with him being the master and me the learner) put six reconditioned, zero timed, cylinders on an O-470R with about 1400 hours on it. The smoothness and performance has improved out of sight.

But there is some oil leakage from about three push rod tubes. Two of which are crank case end.

I put these tubes in which was easy enough as the exhaust and induction systems were off.

So three questions;

How easy is it to remove the tubes with both the exhaust and induction on? (Yes I'll have to remove the rocker arms and push rods)

What's the best tool for the push rod tube springs? I tried with some success, using the big arsed flat blad screw driver pushing down on the springs yesterday.

What's the best gaskets for the job?

Thanks,
Texmex.
 
"REAL" gaskets are the popular choice but you may seal your leaks by compressing the spring and rotating the tubes a little to re-seat them.
 
I use a light coat of Hylomar on the inside and outside diameter of the seal. If you compress the spring and use .025 safety wire to tie the coils so it stays compressed you can get them in easier. It's not as nice as the right tool, but I had to do this more than a few times out in the field.
John
 
Hardtailjohn said:
I use a light coat of Hylomar on the inside and outside diameter of the seal. If you compress the spring and use .025 safety wire to tie the coils so it stays compressed you can get them in easier. It's not as nice as the right tool, but I had to do this more than a few times out in the field.
John
Click to expand...

thats that blue stuff that doesn't harden??
I tried that ONCE.
Seemed like a good idea beforehand.

Leaked crazy bad.

Oil it so it can slide to fit.
 
Thanks guys.

What's the best tool for the job of pushing down on the spring end? The big flat bladder screw driver slips about a bit.

I did oil them, with clean engine oil before hand.
 
wirsig said:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/gasket08-13615.php?clickkey=4640464
Click to expand...


In the spirit of saving a few bucks, that tool is exactly the same as the Briggs and Stratton valve spring compressor. I now have one of each. They are at the limit of what they can do with the push rod tubes. Strategically applied safety wire on the tool will help contain the tendency to pop off the spring.
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...minqju5qmh1wivdjbpch2ziwn3eaqyaiabegl6hvd_bwe
 
3/4" open end wrench on the shoulder of the tube where the spring rides, push to compress the spring and pull the rocker end of the push rod tube down and remove. A bit harder going back together without the compressor tool and spring holder.
 
That tool is for the small Continentals with the Real Gasket pushrod kit. Don't think it fits the big Continentals. I have two different tools for that but have used safety wire to compress the springs. Not sure what the shipping would be to Australia but I try to stay away from anything except 4 cylinder Lycomings.
 
Wirsig and N85260 thanks for the input. Apart from what Steve says I don't think you could use that tool with the exhaust and inlet systems attached. Could be wrong on that though.

3/4 open wrench (spanner in my language :)) , great idea.

If you have a photo of what you use Steve that'd be great.
 
These are the tools I have for the pushrod housing springs on Continentals. The Real Gasket tool looks wide enough to work on a big Continental.
ef8c7e530589fb4a0f6ae73ec6913ba7.jpg
0fd5f277ce06d89bf4449ebeabf4bf09.jpg


Sent from my SM-N900V using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
Thanks Steve. On the top photo the long black tool is what I used to put them in. But there was no exhaust nor inlet systems assembled.

I'm thinking if the twisting and attempted re-seat doesn't work. Remove the push rod. 3/4 wrench and remove the tube, and start over again. Probably with the lock wire so as to be able to remove it in the tight space.

Thanks all for the discussion. It's midnight hear so good night.
 
mike mcs repair said:
thats that blue stuff that doesn't harden??
I tried that ONCE.
Seemed like a good idea beforehand.

Leaked crazy bad.

Oil it so it can slide to fit.
Click to expand...


Never had a leak after I started using that stuff. We ran a bunch of Cont. IO360's as well as 470's and 520's...used it on all of them with great results.
JH
 
texmex said:
Thanks guys.
What's the best tool for the job of pushing down on the spring end? The big flat bladder screw driver slips about a bit.
Click to expand...

I use a properly sized crows foot on a long extension. That made pretty easy work of the pushrod tube springs and left room to get in around the tool to do what you need to do.

-Cub Builder
 
Mike, will that tool work with the intake and exhaust in place?

I've just ordered some real gaskets and see that tool also for sale on their web site. I assume you compress the spring in the vice beforehand. Then place the tool over it???

.025 safety
Click to expand...

Hardtailjohn. I used 32 thou lock wire which was a little tricky getting the spring over the tube. 25 thou would be easier, but the power in those springs frightens me. Springs and bungees are not for the faint hearted.
 
Dennis,
Get to Moorabbin I have the tools here you can burrow. Probably can be done in situ but would be quicker dropping everything off. You can also see what's going where before you let the springs go. Easier than doing it a third time.
John
 
Thanks Wal,

You maybe sorry. ;-)

I ordered 'Real Gaskets' last night. I need to talk to Tim about doing the prop so I may come down and do all at once.

Cheers.
 
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