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AirPigz
11-04-2016, 09:35 AM
First, I wondered if anyone has some weld-on float fittings available they would like to sell... fuselage will be blasted soon and want to get those on before long.

This is my first post here and will hopefully cover my 6 month full-time restoration of N9460D, a 1959 PA-18A. I'm In northern Indiana and I'm doing the work for a brother of mine out in California.

I wondered if I could get some feedback from some members here: current plan is to retain the flat top fuselage that this A model was built with, partly to keep the vintage heritage alive with this airframe, and partly because the aluminum hatch door on the fuselage top is in such great condition.

I was curious to see how people feel about the flat top fuse and that hatch, which opens right down into the baggage area. Do you like it's look and/or its unique nature... or do you hate everything about it?

Would appreciate some feedback - thanx!

Martt Clupper
AirPigz
Indiana

28288

28287

RaisedByWolves
11-04-2016, 10:01 AM
I think it's pretty cool if you guys kept it.


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AirPigz
11-04-2016, 10:16 AM
Thanx for the feedback Tom

Dave Calkins
11-04-2016, 10:38 AM
Keep it Ag

aktango58
11-04-2016, 10:38 AM
Might work well for in-law flights...

just add ejection seat below!:wink:


In talking to others that have flown the flat tops, they all say the planes are faster, and even a bit lighter. Folks really like the rear seat and flat floor set up.

The down sides I can see with the hatch would be weight, and if you are in rain and it leaks, your stuff will be wet.

cubdriver2
11-04-2016, 11:15 AM
Does Javron make float fittings?

Glenn

cubpilot2
11-04-2016, 01:21 PM
Atlee Dodge has the float fittings and the STC

I prefer the A model for all of the reasons mentioned. ( some bias due to currently owning two)

Inspect the hatch area tubing carefully during your inspection as they are notorious for moisture getting into the tubing through the 30+ riv-nuts under the hatch. The moisture will find its way into the lower aft supports and diagonal bracing of the structure corroding out the inside at the lower 2 inches or so . I usually get rid of the hatch's and replace all of the tubing that had the holes drilled for riv-nuts. I have seen these holes welded shut before but they will leave several ugly "warts" showing through the fabric.

To eliminate the hatch and the aluminum frame you will need to add bracing for the large "bay". It is a structural modification and field approvals are extremely hard to get. In the days of simple field approvals you would find X bracing or a single diagonal tube.

The only current option that I have found is to use an old STC originated by Flanagan that replaced the hatch and added Plexiglas for the aft area similar to the L21. I did not want the weight of the glass and was able to get a field approved exception to the STC to only use the structural reinforcement part and cover with fabric. Cub Crafters owns the STC.

I have pdf copies of the modifications drawings for you to review but you would have to work with CC for the approvals. (I had to make the copies and sent them to Vera at CC as they had lost their originals. )

tempdoug
11-04-2016, 01:33 PM
http://www.bushwhackerair.com/cubparts.html are they still around??

AirPigz
11-04-2016, 01:43 PM
Thanx for the input. I've seen several sources for float fittings, just thought I might find someone with a set and looking to sell them.

The aluminum hatch and the tubes with rivnuts are in crazy good condition, so the plan had been to install the hatch going forward. The airframe only has 2000 hours TT and the fuselage looks like it's about 5 years old even tho I'm sure it's the original 59 fuse. This great overall condition is another reason we're thinking of sticking with the original configuration... plus, I could see having access to the baggage from above being handy once or twice in the next 20 years : )

cubpilot2
11-04-2016, 02:32 PM
The aluminum hatch and the tubes with rivnuts are in crazy good condition, so the plan had been to install the hatch going forward. The airframe only has 2000 hours TT and the fuselage looks like it's about 5 years old even tho I'm sure it's the original 59 fuse. This great overall condition is another reason we're thinking of sticking with the original configuration... plus, I could see having access to the baggage from above being handy once or twice in the next 20 years : )[/QUOTE]

That's great. It must have never been a sprayer; or has lived in a hangar most of its life.
I would still do a "punch test" on the lower tubing even though the outside looks good. (near the flap cable pulleys).

Good luck with the project.

RaisedByWolves
11-04-2016, 05:20 PM
http://www.airframesalaska.com/PA-18-Super-Cub-Float-Fittings-p/af59078-1.htm

They fit nice, the atlee fittings require some heat forming

AirPigz
11-04-2016, 07:20 PM
Thank you for the input and feedback so far, I appreciate it. I'm sure enjoying the project immensely and I look forward to more input from all the experience found here.

Here's a pic of the fuselage on a simple wooden rotisserie I built. My workspace is in a loft space in a large hangar... the nose pivot is attached to the outer wall, which makes it all very solid.

Martt Clupper
AirPigz
Indiana

28292

Piper Pete
11-04-2016, 08:22 PM
Martt,
Leave it ag. You don't see many like that any more.
My Dad bought a new 1954 A model which they sprayed with,but after the first year they removed the tank behind the seat and replaced it with a 90 gal Sorenson belly tank. They did not like the thought of a crash with that full tank behind your back.
Are those license stickers on the tail for South Dakota? It may have been close to where I live at one time.
Piper Pete

cubscout
11-04-2016, 08:56 PM
I like it. And can personally verify that it's much easier to load a large, heavy Kelty packframe through the hatch than through the door and over the seat.

Thanks. cubscout

AirPigz
11-22-2016, 09:19 AM
I wondered if anyone has the 4 seat springs (about 20" long) that go in the back of the front seat. I have all the springs for the rear seat, and don't need the ones for the front seat bottom since I'm gonna move the battery there, but I think I'd like to have the springs in the back of that front seat.

Please let me know if you have some to sell - thanx!

Btw, just got back from Lock Haven and the 3-day workshop with Clyde Smith (The Cub Doctor) - what a fantastic experience! I maintain a club operated J-3 that will soon need some aft fuselage attention, and then I'm restoring this Super Cub, so the info, help, and encouragement from Clyde was just awesome. I highly recommend Clyde and his Cub Restoration Services operation.

RaisedByWolves
11-22-2016, 09:24 AM
I wondered if anyone has the 4 seat springs (about 20" long) that go in the back of the front seat. I have all the springs for the rear seat, and don't need the ones for the front seat bottom since I'm gonna move the battery there, but I think I'd like to have the springs in the back of that front seat.

Please let me know if you have some to sell - thanx!

Btw, just got back from Lock Haven and the 3-day workshop with Clyde Smith (The Cub Doctor) - what a fantastic experience! I maintain a club operated J-3 that will soon need some aft fuselage attention, and then I'm restoring this Super Cub, so the info, help, and encouragement from Clyde was just awesome. I highly recommend Clyde and his Cub Restoration Services operation.

I got some, I took them out of my seats. Covered the back and bottom of the front seat with fabric.


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AirPigz
11-22-2016, 09:35 AM
I got some, I took them out of my seats. Covered the back and bottom of the front seat with fabric.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I sent you a message Tom

tcraft128
11-22-2016, 09:47 AM
I would drool over a fully restored Ag cub with spray system installed. If done correctly, it would win awards.

PIPER J5.5
11-22-2016, 10:04 AM
Is that a rain guage on top of the sky light?

AirPigz
11-22-2016, 10:25 AM
I would drool over a fully restored Ag cub with spray system installed. If done correctly, it would win awards.

The plan is to retain much of the basic look that an A model has, but many of the ag oriented details will be removed. I agree tho that a full ag set up would be cool to see.

AirPigz
11-22-2016, 10:27 AM
Is that a rain guage on top of the sky light?

I rigged up a temporary fuel tank so I could run the engine some before I started the fuselage tear down. Worked great.

Grant
11-22-2016, 12:43 PM
Don't fall off of the loft when working up there... That scares me just looking at it....

AirPigz
11-22-2016, 01:23 PM
Don't fall off of the loft when working up there... That scares me just looking at it....

I admit I'm a little weird... I like having that edge there : )

Won't be there much longer tho as a full wall will be in place before long.

AirPigz
11-22-2016, 01:33 PM
Here's how the fuselage looks currently, essentially ready for sandblasting. I've just got a few ag tabs to remove first, and a few small alterations to get figured out and on hand up before I lower it down and have it blasted.

Also, a pic of the stainless firewall and flange that I helped Clyde Smith build for this airplane (right there in Lock Haven!) yesterday after the workshop ended in Sunday. I loaded it up and headed back to Indiana right after it was finished.

28502

28503

mike mcs repair
11-22-2016, 01:38 PM
best to send it to sand blaster FIRST before investing any time in it...

very sad when half the tubes turn out to be rusted from inside and blast through at blaster... and you end up having to fix them too, when you should have bailed and bought a new one... been there done that ONCE......

AirPigz
11-22-2016, 01:41 PM
best to send it to sand blaster FIRST before investing any time in it...

very sad when half the tubes turn out to be rusted from inside and blast through at blaster... and you end up having to fix them too, when you should have bailed and bought a new one... been there done that ONCE......

Understood, and I agree, but this fuselage is in amazingly good condition... looks about 15 years old. I haven't found the first spot to be concerned with yet.

PA-22/20-160
11-22-2016, 05:03 PM
I'll second what Mike is trying to tell you, I've got a 55A that has 1900 hrs on it and lived in New Mexico all of its life it looked mint when I got it and was is good shape but you will be surprised by the way rust can hide. You are going to sandblast anyway so might as well get it done and find out what you have, easier to fix everything at one time or go new then to repair sandblast then find more to repair. You will find the rivnuts in the hopper lid let water in and rust the tubes from the inside out and won't know until sand punches holes though.

Chuck ( A-model loonie)

cubpilot2
11-22-2016, 09:17 PM
Here's how the fuselage looks currently, essentially ready for sandblasting. I've just got a few ag tabs to remove first, and a few small alterations to get figured out and on hand up before I lower it down and have it blasted.




R

Just curious, does it happen to have the "aluminized" coating on the tubing? THis could explain the good condition.
If so then you could loose it in blasting.
it will look like orange peel finish on the tubes.

AirPigz
11-23-2016, 09:00 AM
Just curious, does it happen to have the "aluminized" coating on the tubing? THis could explain the good condition.
If so then you could loose it in blasting.
it will look like orange peel finish on the tubes.

No aluminized coating, just a grayish paint with again, essentially no signs of rust.

Here's a close up pic of the two flap pulleys on left side behind the baggage area... you can see the tubing is in great shape. All of the fuselage looks like this.

The pulley's and the flap cables have since been removed, cleaned, and inspected - they now literally look like new. The cables had the expected amount of dust and dirt on them, plus some overspray paint from the black put on the inside walls of the baggage area, but after a detailed cleaning, the cable condition is perfect.

28507

Martt
N9460D

Rice farmer
11-25-2016, 11:40 PM
Our A model (9448D) was in good shape also. Just some corrosion under the battery. We retained the flat back but got rid of the hopper door. We just did the rebuild 3 years ago so let me know if I can answer any questions. Brett

AirPigz
11-26-2016, 07:13 AM
Our A model (9448D) was in good shape also. Just some corrosion under the battery. We retained the flat back but got rid of the hopper door. We just did the rebuild 3 years ago so let me know if I can answer any questions. Brett

Thanx for the info Brett, good to know yours was in great shape too. I might have questions : )

9460D is in Indiana with me for the rebuild, but it will be living in Lake County once it's done, maybe not far from you?

Martt
N9460D

Rice farmer
11-26-2016, 11:43 AM
That will be great to have another A model out here on the Left Coast! ��

cubpilot2
11-26-2016, 12:43 PM
28507

Martt
N9460D[/QUOTE]


The tube right behind the pulley leaning aft is where we find problems with the internal corrosion along with the two opposite it on the right side. The lower 1 1/2 inches will have a "dead sound" when tapped with a hammer. A light punch test will tell the story. Its common to have them look great on the outside and be ate up inside. These are critical tubes in the structure. Another hidden place for corrrosion is the aft door post tube just above the longeron under the U channel. Dirt and moisture enter from the top of the channel and typically can't escape. If your U channel is sealed at the bottom you should drill the channel to allow moisture to get out. Don't be surprised if you find a pile of rust when you do.

Looking good so far.
Good luck

AirPigz
02-25-2017, 07:34 PM
Here's an update to the PA-18A project I'm working on...

I'm running behind schedule (of course) for a variety of reasons but I'm picking up steam nicely. I thought I'd show the weld-on float fittings that I went with. They are a fairly new offering from Dakota Cub and they fit extremely well, I'm very happy with them. I just got the fuselage primed and painted (after sand blasting) and its looking really nice.

30431

30432

The second pic is a better representation of the topcoat color, which is Stewart Systems EkoCrylic in charcoal gray over their EkoPrime. I added their flattener to the topcoat for a really nice satin finish... I think it looks very classy.

It wasn't the original plan, but I've added several STC mods to the project. Under seat battery, seatbelt fuselage attach, overhead X-brace, adjustable rear seat, oversized baggage door, extended baggage area, and the 2,000# gross weight upgrade.

I'm beginning to put things back in the fuselage and also have the left wing opened up and doing work there. Planning to accelerate the work and hit it hard in the next couple months.

Martt Clupper
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D

supercub
02-25-2017, 08:30 PM
I wonder if there was ever a working ag cub on floats? or for that matter any working sprayer on floats, other then the Seats the Forest Service is using.

AirPigz
02-25-2017, 08:43 PM
I wonder if there was ever a working ag cub on floats? or for that matter any working sprayer on floats, other then the Seats the Forest Service is using.

While I've been familiar with Super Cubs in general since I was a teen in the mid 70's, i admit that i didn't even know about the 'A' model until this restoration opportunity came along last Fall. I haven't found very many pix on the net of ag Super Cubs either... I wish there was just to get a better feel for the history. And it would be interesting to know if there was ever any applicating done with one on floats!

Rice farmer
02-26-2017, 01:53 AM
Ive seen an old video of several A models working in Columbia I think. Maybe on YouTube or Vimeo.

AirPigz
02-26-2017, 10:40 AM
Ive seen an old video of several A models working in Columbia I think. Maybe on YouTube or Vimeo.

I didn't try checking videos... I think I found the one you mentioned. There was a really good view of opening the hatch in the video, that was cool for me to see. Thanx for the video info.

Rice farmer
02-26-2017, 03:06 PM
The video I was referring to is Exteme Cropdusting 1957. Hopefully you already found it. Brett

S2D
02-26-2017, 04:50 PM
I would drool over a fully restored Ag cub with spray system installed. If done correctly, it would win awards.

I had one a for a while. 52 model I bought from a tobacco sprayer in KY. totally complete as an A model Sprayer. I did one mosquito spray job with it and realized I never wanted to spray in one so I sold it and we stripped everything out. would have been a great candidate for an original restoration.

Cubus Maximus
02-26-2017, 05:33 PM
Local A's

http://www.supercub.org/photopost/data/500/L1B0601.jpg

https://www.backcountrypilot.org/images/originalphotos/53/401/59e0c5b83bddea8b77e026bb.jpg

https://www.backcountrypilot.org/images/originalphotos/53/2065/6ed5162e305996ca2707d85e.jpg

AirPigz
02-26-2017, 05:55 PM
Thanx for the pix... it's interesting for me to see the flat backs. I think they actually look very nice on these examples. I'm leaving the flat back and the hopper door in place and I think on a fresh airplane it's gonna look really good.

Martt

PA-22/20-160
02-26-2017, 10:00 PM
Here's another style of flat back without the hopper lid and glass added 30470

AirPigz
02-26-2017, 10:15 PM
Looks nice PA-22/20-160, is that a project of yours?

PA-22/20-160
02-26-2017, 10:44 PM
Looks nice PA-22/20-160, is that a project of yours?
Yes I'm finally getting to work on my own plane

cubpilot2
02-27-2017, 01:12 AM
Here's another style of flat back without the hopper lid and glass added 30470
Chuck: I see you went ahead with the Flanagan STC. Looking good!

PA-22/20-160
02-27-2017, 08:28 AM
Chuck: I see you went ahead with the Flanagan STC. Looking good!
I did and thanks again for the help with the drawings, Flanagan must have had stock in the rivnut company there must be 200 of them just to hold the glass.

Cub junkie
02-27-2017, 08:48 AM
Is this STC from James Flanagan of Independence ,MO ?

PA-22/20-160
02-27-2017, 10:04 AM
Is this STC from James Flanagan of Independence ,MO ?
Don't know if he's the one that got the Stc but cubcrafters owns it now but they don't really support it.

Cub junkie
02-27-2017, 10:22 AM
In the '60's James Flanagan did maintenance work on my fathers pipeline patrollers. He had a PA18 around he called the Super Bear. I was told he had several STC's. He kind of went off the grid and I'm sure he is long deceased. Just curious.

MainlandCub
02-27-2017, 10:10 PM
Here's another style of flat back without the hopper lid and glass added 30470

Any chance of some more pictures of the portion of the fuse where the glass will go? I am building an experimental that will be a PA-18A / L21 hybrid in this area and looking for ideas on how to attach the "glass".

Thanks,
Andrew.

PA-22/20-160
02-28-2017, 09:52 PM
Here you go
30485

AirPigz
03-17-2017, 08:12 AM
Here are some new pix of my progress on N9460D.

30667
New floorboards built


30668
Floorboards after mahogany stain. My attempt at tight holes around the front seat belt attach fittings didn't work so I decided to generously enlarge them and will put aluminum plates over.

30669
New instrument panel holes cut

30670
RAM mount for iPad

30671
Test fit of iPad with mock panel and old windshield in place... should work perfectly (borrowed iPad has had a hard life)

With a quick twist of the RAM mount clamp you'll be able to remove everything except for the 2-1/2" black ball plate that will be mounted in a 3-1/8" hole. This way an iPad is in a great spot for use, but can be removed easily to fit the 'vintage' look.


Martt
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D
1959 PA-18A

cubpilot2
03-17-2017, 11:32 PM
Looking good Martt

Curious: Are you going to leave the two stubs that stick out above the rear seat?
Those were attachments for 1/4 inch rods that extended down to a fixture to "cradle" the hopper.
I would cut those off as they will only mess up your interior panels and get in your way.
I also get rid of most other tabs that held the ag stuff, such as the outside agitator mounts on the left side.
I like the floorboard extension also which are well worth the time!

take care

AirPigz
03-18-2017, 05:24 AM
Looking good Martt

Curious: Are you going to leave the two stubs that stick out above the rear seat?
Those were attachments for 1/4 inch rods that extended down to a fixture to "cradle" the hopper.
I would cut those off as they will only mess up your interior panels and get in your way.
I also get rid of most other tabs that held the ag stuff, such as the outside agitator mounts on the left side.
I like the floorboard extension also which are well worth the time!

take care

Thanx... I did cut off the misc tabs you mention but so far have decided to leave the big lugs as a nod to this airplane's ag roots. They had rubber donuts that went over them that dressed them up and made them non hazardous to the person in the rear. I'll be fitting the interior panels again soon (and covering them with a light leather) and will consider your suggestion once I see what they look like once again in a finished condition.

While this airplane seems to have the full ag set up, I'm guessing it did very little, if any, actual ag work. I found no corrosion, and even the flat top hopper door, which is also being retained to acknowledge this airplane's roots, doesn't have any dents or even scratches in it.

More pix soon as I keep knocking out projects so I can get on to fabric work : )

Martt

BC12D-4-85
03-18-2017, 10:52 AM
I removed the hopper door and installed light tinted plexiglass for the dogs that rode back there. Seemed to please them and made finding things in winter easier.

GAP

AirPigz
03-18-2017, 11:24 AM
I removed the hopper door and installed light tinted plexiglass for the dogs that rode back there. Seemed to please them and made finding things in winter easier.

GAP

I can see that being a nice set up for sure, and can definitely see the dogs liking it : )

Last Saturday morning I arrived at the local airport as a friend was warming up in his T-Craft... that turned into me getting to make a takeoff and landing in it with him and his little dog that he was gonna take for her first ride. She was in the baggage and then had her front paws on my shoulder right after takeoff. She seemed to enjoy the ride. Made for a really enjoyable 20 minutes of right seat flying on a 20 morning in northern Indiana.

Martt

30679

30680

30681

BC12D-4-85
03-18-2017, 02:22 PM
Good thread and great airplane project! I had two 150 Cubs (one an "A" N1189C and one regular N7777D) and flew two others. I prefer the "A". Takes off short, climbs high, goes fast, stalls slow. The rear baggage area and flat floor made for convenient cargo hauling. My worst mistake in aviation was trading it off for a PA-12-180. Oh well, we all stumble at times.

But now that you've been Taylorcraftize'd you may throw rocks at the Cub...not really but they are worth a ride in sometime or owning as a second plane.

Gary

Cub junkie
03-18-2017, 02:43 PM
I'm as far south in Indiana as you are north Airpigz. Winter really hasn't kicked our butts down here this year. Lucky I guess. I love old T crafts. Mine was also a '40 except a BL65 N29634 just a little newer than the one in your pic. Wish I would have kept it, like many that got away.

AirPigz
03-18-2017, 03:55 PM
Good thread and great airplane project! I had two 150 Cubs (one an "A" N1189C and one regular N7777D) and flew two others. I prefer the "A". Takes off short, climbs high, goes fast, stalls slow. The rear baggage area and flat floor made for convenient cargo hauling. My worst mistake in aviation was trading it off for a PA-12-180. Oh well, we all stumble at times.

But now that you've been Taylorcraftize'd you may throw rocks at the Cub...not really but they are worth a ride in sometime or owning as a second plane.

Gary

Good to hear that the 'A' model served you so well, too bad you don't still have it. My Cub experience is with a 90hp Clipped Wing J-3 back when I was a 18/19 years old around 1980, and then currently with a full span J-3 in a local flying club.

N9460D is my first direct exposure to a Super Cub, but I'm really enjoying everything I'm learning about it. It'll be really interesting to look closely at regular PA-18 in the future to compare the 'A' model differences that I know have my head wrapped around.

And I have a bit of T-Craft experience from back in the day, a friend in the 70's and 80's had one with an A75 and a Beech Roby prop... I think they're great airplanes, and sure agree that one would make an excellent second airplane. But I learned at 13 in a 7KCAB Citabria, so tandem seats and a stick are just what feel right to me.

I'm restoring the Super Cub for a brother I have in California, but hopefully I'll be doing a Clipped Wing Cub before too long to keep for myself : )

Martt

AirPigz
03-18-2017, 03:59 PM
I'm as far south in Indiana as you are north Airpigz. Winter really hasn't kicked our butts down here this year. Lucky I guess. I love old T crafts. Mine was also a '40 except a BL65 N29634 just a little newer than the one in your pic. Wish I would have kept it, like many that got away.

We've sure been up and down and all around with the weather this winter, but all things considered, it hasn't been all that bad.

Cool to hear you have T-Craft stories as well... just too bad you don't have one anymore.

Martt

PerryB
03-18-2017, 04:02 PM
But I learned at 13 in a 7KCAB Citabria, so tandem seats and a stick are just what feel right to me.


Martt

Anything else is an unnatural act.

BC12D-4-85
03-18-2017, 04:19 PM
There's many experienced Cub drivers and builders here but I'm not one...experienced in owning 9 aircraft and flying some others on the job yes, but not a Cub expert.

My -18 "A" was rebuilt by Pete Sanders in Helena, MT. after a wreck and I flew it back to Fairbanks in September 1987. I did the following: Light electricals and battery; bare panel and interior; Atlee Dodge simple baggage; stock 150 engine and 80/40 prop; stock fuel; Hendricks squared tips and ailerons at stock Cub span; flap gap seals over flaps and ailerons; flaps extended into fuselage; VG's on wings; stock Cub wing rigging. Weighed 1087# but could have been lighter with a lighter fabric job and stock wings. Would fly down to 28 GPS under cruise power in level flight. Next time I'd leave the wing stock but did like the aileron seals, and VG's especially on floats.

It was a 4 hour plane plus reserve and had a 150 mile radius plus reserve for reasonable winds at 90 wheels/skis/floats. I guess If were building one today like you I'd set the plans based upon how it was intended to be used most of the time. Nice-to-have mods that rarely get needed can add weight and expense. If I had one goal it'd be light weight first, then whatever else I'd be using 90% of the time. My advice would be keep it simple.

Gary

skywagon8a
03-19-2017, 06:25 AM
I too had a T-craft BC12-D N43803 as my first airplane, visibility is terrible had to duck down to see out the side windows. Was almost run over by a Lockheed P-3 because of it. I could hear and smell his kerosene when he went by the windshield. Bought it as a wreck for $400 and turned in my first 337 at the FSDO on it while on the way to get my Airframe practical to complete my A&P. Flew it over 200 hours the first year, kept it hangared, all on an income of $25 a week.


.. flap gap seals over flaps and ailerons; ....but did like the aileron seals,..
Gary
Gary please explain "flap gap seals". Are you referring to the required sheet metal which is screwed to the trailing edge? Or something else? Please describe what you mean by "aileron seals".

BC12D-4-85
03-19-2017, 11:37 AM
I too had a T-craft BC12-D N43803 as my first airplane, visibility is terrible had to duck down to see out the side windows. Was almost run over by a Lockheed P-3 because of it. I could hear and smell his kerosene when he went by the windshield. Bought it as a wreck for $400 and turned in my first 337 at the FSDO on it while on the way to get my Airframe practical to complete my A&P. Flew it over 200 hours the first year, kept it hangared, all on an income of $25 a week.


Gary please explain "flap gap seals". Are you referring to the required sheet metal which is screwed to the trailing edge? Or something else? Please describe what you mean by "aileron seals".

Thread drift and apologies to Martt but I'll respond:

#1: Learning in a low power light wing loading plane like J-3's, Champs, Taylorcrafts I believe helps develop the respect for performers...like Supercubs and C-185's. Even limiting the power to say 100 and using no flaps sometimes in a PA-18 can reignite the respect for flying the wing and high density altitude and heavy ops. My Taylorcraft with a skylight and clear Lexan covered seaplane doors has better visibility.

#2: I did several temporary experimental wing mods to my PA-18A. One I liked at low airspeed for better aileron control and maybe lower stall (?) was extending the existing upper factory flap gap seals outboard over the ailerons. They can be duplicated on a roll and then bent back on a brake to match the factory design. I installed them like the flap seals but with 1/8" clearance between the up deflected aileron and the new seal similar to the flapped portions with the flaps retracted. A Maule wing has a similar close fit over their ailerons unlike Piper. I believe it helps seal the aileron/wing gap and improves the flow over the deflected aileron similar to the flaps. I found them effective in slow flight. I'd do it again but it's not an approved mod. I also end-plated the outboard ends of the flaps similar to flat endplates on some Ag planes that extend the form of the airfoil. There was some additional lift to be had as determined by roll away at flap deflection from the only one with them installed. I then put them on both flaps. I'd do it again (inboard and outboard ends) for myself but it's not an approved mod.

#3 My first PA-18 and later PA-12-180 had stock flaps and ailerons with extended Hendricks/D&N tips. Terrible roll control when slow that could have been improved by extending the ailerons to the point where they didn't have to fight the tip vortex. The PA-12 had a Crosswinds cuff and stall fence. I had them removed and preferred the stock airfoil. In the end I like a factory wing with some of the help I've described.

#4 If we were as curious as Fred Weick was (https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19930083935.pdf) maybe we'd learn something about the airflow circulation about a wing with and without modifications. The example is a Taylorcraft but the process applies to all. His life as an aeronautical engineer described in this book is worth a read (https://www.amazon.com/GROUND-UP-Fred-Weick/dp/0874749506).

GAP

bubb2
03-19-2017, 01:05 PM
I have a 1953 PA-18A-135 I found in a barn in Kansas. The aircraft had last been flown in 1978. It has 1200 TTSN. The fabric was unable to pass inspection so the owner took the wings off and brought them to an IA to recover. He then removed all the fabric off the fuselage. When the owner checked with the IA about his wings he discovered the wings had been stolen. He did find a pair of replacement wings in trade-a-plane. Those wings were on a brand new PA-18 being ferried from the Piper factory. The airplane was ground looped resulting in dented leading edge skins on both wings. The owner of the new cub did not want any damage history so those wings were replaced with new ones. The damaged ones were repaired and sold to the owner of the PA-18A. Those original wings have about 10 hour TTSN. They are still in the silver in the areas where the leading edge skins were replaced. As I have another airplane this has been a slow project of "parts collection" to get to the point of re-assembly. The fuselage has been completed with all the Alaskan mods. I went with the L21 glass and got a field approval for x'ing the hopper bay. I did find rust from water entering from the rivnuts and a little in the tail section that I attribute to the use of chemicals in AG operations. The guy I bought it from did not use if for AG but never had the airworthiness certificate change to standard. The aircraft is still listed by the FAA as restricted.

AirPigz
03-25-2017, 11:13 PM
Made a lot of progress in the last 2 weeks:
Flap pulleys and cables installed
Floorboards complete and installed
Rudder and brake pedals installed
Interior panels trimmed and prepped for lightweight leather covering
Extended baggage nearly completed
New trim cable, new jackscrew and yoke installed
Fabricated new rudder and elevator cables
Flat top stringers back in place
Various misc projects

30711

30712

30713

30714

30715

(help! what's the trick to get tall pix to orient properly?)

Hoping to keep the pace up to finish fuselage work and then get the wings prepped for cover soon as well so I can move on to fabric work.

Martt
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D
1959 PA-18A

ak49flyer
03-26-2017, 01:53 AM
Why is one hook on the Atlee baggage facing the opposite way? Might make it fun if you ever need to pull it out...

AirPigz
03-26-2017, 03:10 AM
Why is one hook on the Atlee baggage facing the opposite way? Might make it fun if you ever need to pull it out...

That's the way the attach brackets were installed (they are the one part of the kit that's pre-built) and I assumed that's how they were supposed to be, but doing a Google search shows them installed pointing the same direction. I also just checked the associated paperwork and I see that it shows them pointing the same direction too.

As it turns out, it doesn't change anything ultimately because I simply pivoted the entire box to get one bracket over the tube and then the other, and that same procedure would be used if it ever needs removed.

Martt

AirPigz
04-01-2017, 10:33 PM
The Fuselage of N9460D is about 2 days of work away from being ready for the fabric work to start, but I'm gonna move to the wings now to install the 2,000# gross weight rear spar pieces next. Hopefully I'll be onto all the fabric work by mid April.

A few days back I carefully cleaned the master brake cylinders which had black paint and decades of ick on them... they cleaned up really nice!

30760

30761

30762

And here's a pic I found on the internet at the beginning of the project that shows a British registered Super Cub with essentially the same factory paint scheme that the project airplane had on it, and it's what I'll be painting it in once covered. The end goal is to have a pretty clean and very vintage looking flat top Super Cub.

30763

Martt
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D
1959 PA-18A

Cub junkie
04-01-2017, 10:41 PM
That's a great paint scheme. Cub Crafters, take notes.

AirPigz
04-01-2017, 10:56 PM
That's a great paint scheme. Cub Crafters, take notes.

I sure like it. After looking at a boatload of Super Cub pix in the last 8 months I haven't seen any that I like as much as that old factory scheme.

Plus, I'm be adding the flattener to the Stewart Systems EkoPoly paint, and that'll give it a great vintage look. It won't be 'flat', it'll just have a great satin look. I used it on the EkoCrylic on the fuselage tubing and the sheen is very rich and classy looking to me.

Martt

skywagon8a
04-02-2017, 04:57 AM
A few days back I carefully cleaned the master brake cylinders which had black paint and decades of ick on them... they cleaned up really nice!

30762

Did you disassemble the master cylinders to inspect or replace the rubber bladders? Old ones can fail suddenly without notice. By your description they haven't been apart for years. When they do there is no brake NONE. And if you happen to be in a tight spot at the time you could learn a few new four letter words along with a further emptying of your wallet and a hat from sj.

AirPigz
04-02-2017, 05:16 AM
Did you disassemble the master cylinders to inspect or replace the rubber bladders? Old ones can fail suddenly without notice. By your description they haven't been apart for years. When they do there is no brake NONE. And if you happen to be in a tight spot at the time you could learn a few new four letter words along with a further emptying of your wallet and a hat from sj.

I haven't yet, but it's on the list.

Martt

Steve's Aircraft (Brian)
04-03-2017, 02:37 PM
30712



Looking at this photo your front brake pedals are twisted / bent... The two arms are supposed to be parallel... The way they are now you will have less than half your brake travel before the pedal end contacts your floorboards and not give you full brake pressure...

You need to go from this
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j474/cougarcat1969/17425996_10154174561980216_3496467504577923313_n.j pg?t=1491161578

To this
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j474/cougarcat1969/17309080_10154174562220216_1593479143465452432_n.j pg?t=1491161566

Inner sleeve the tube when done for more strength.

Brian.

Steve Pierce
04-03-2017, 07:37 PM
New O'rings in the parking brake valves as well. I use NAS Allen head screws on the brake cylinder diaphragms, makes it way easier to replace later on down the road when everything is installed and covered.

AirPigz
04-03-2017, 08:29 PM
Looking at this photo your front brake pedals are twisted / bent... The two arms are supposed to be parallel... The way they are now you will have less than half your brake travel before the pedal end contacts your floorboards and not give you full brake pressure...



Thank you for this info. I never considered that the brake pedal tube could/would twist that much over time. Thanx for the pictures too.

I might have come to that conclusion once I got everything rigged up, but much easier to deal with now : )

Martt

AirPigz
04-03-2017, 08:31 PM
New O'rings in the parking brake valves as well. I use NAS Allen head screws on the brake cylinder diaphragms, makes it way easier to replace later on down the road when everything is installed and covered.

Sounds like good advice on both counts... thank you.

Martt

MainlandCub
04-03-2017, 11:08 PM
And here's a pic I found on the internet at the beginning of the project that shows a British registered Super Cub with essentially the same factory paint scheme that the project airplane had on it, and it's what I'll be painting it in once covered. The end goal is to have a pretty clean and very vintage looking flat top Super Cub.

30763

Martt
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D
1959 PA-18A

Yeah, I like that scheme too. I masked this from the Piper drawing available from the Cub Club. I changed it a bit by reducing the size of the registration letters, carrying the stripe past the rego and leaving the scribble off the fin and rudder. This one is a PA-18A too.

Andrew.

MainlandCub
04-03-2017, 11:13 PM
And here's a pic of my brake pedal jig. Might give you some ideas.

Andrew.

AirPigz
04-04-2017, 04:51 AM
Yeah, I like that scheme too. I masked this from the Piper drawing available from the Cub Club. I changed it a bit by reducing the size of the registration letters, carrying the stripe past the rego and leaving the scribble off the fin and rudder. This one is a PA-18A too.

Andrew.

ZK-BOX looks really nice. I like the idea of reducing the size of the registration numbers like you did... just enough to soften their impact some but not so much that it's obvious that they've been changed. I might do the same.

I'm considering taking that small stripe and carrying it around the rear window rather than flying it on past the window. I haven't done any drawing yet to prove that it looks good but it seems like a good idea. It will essentially just outline all the glass that way.

And for me, I really like the scribble on the tail, but was considering giving it a slight design change to make it a little more dynamic. The changes would be small enough that you won't realize it's different than original, but hopefully it would look more impressive.

Thanx again for the brake pedal info!

Martt

AirPigz
04-11-2017, 09:49 PM
I built a simple jig for putting the set in some leading edge skins today. Worked great!

It's just some 3/4" OSB cut 11.75" high by 58", supported by some 2x4 braces that put the OSB at a slight angle. I used 2" schedule 40 pvc pipe, which is 2.375" in outside diameter. The OSB is spaced right at the pipe diameter at the bottom of the trough (floor level) and about 1-1/2" wider at the top where the aluminum first enters. I'm working in a loft area of a hangar that has an OSB subfloor, so I simply screwed the braces directly to the floor and then the OSB trough walls are just laying against the braces with no fasteners so there's no risk of damaging the aluminum as it slides down.

Takes just a few seconds for a person at each end of the pipe to carefully push down, watching a few marks on the aluminum and working carefully, to put the bend in the nose.

The whole thing went far better than I expected... in fact, couldn't have gone any better. I got one section of the new leading edge installed then, and the nose radius seemed to be just perfect.

30868

30869

30870

30871
(this pic is displaying upside down - don't know why)

30872

30873

Martt Clupper
Warsaw, Indiana
1959 PA-18A
N9460D

AirPigz
04-22-2017, 09:20 PM
Aileron hinge question:

I pulled the old fabric off the right wing and hope to blast on thru it fairly quickly now that I've got one behind me. The left wing got 3 new leading edge sections, new tip ribs (full and nose) along with new tip bow, new cables, and the Wip 2,000# mods.

On the right wing, the middle aileron hinge (with the horn) has an issue and it needs removed and repaired/replaced. Does anyone have experience with removing the 4 rivets that attach it thru the spar and to the horn? Is there a legal way to do that and re-install it with Cherry Max rivets?

I appreciate any input -

31044

Martt Clupper
Warsaw, Indiana
1959 PA-18A
N9460D

Steve Pierce
04-22-2017, 10:07 PM
Those are steel rivets. I drill them out , make my repairs, blast, prime paint and shoot four new rivets in. Univair has them.

Steve Pierce
04-23-2017, 08:19 AM
I drill out the rivets in the upper and lower gusset, remove the trailing edge and spread out the two ribs to gain access to the 4 steel rivets attaching the aileron bellcrank/hinge to the aileron spar. Note that these are AN455 rivets and they are 3/32" not 1/8" like they appear from the head.
31056

AirPigz
04-23-2017, 08:27 AM
I drill out the rivets in the upper and lower gusset, remove the trailing edge and spread out the two ribs to gain access to the 4 steel rivets attaching the aileron bellcrank/hinge to the aileron spar. Note that these are AN455 rivets and they are 3/32" not 1/8" like they appear from the head.
31056

Thanx for the help... makes sense : )

Martt

MT12
04-23-2017, 12:45 PM
[/QUOTE]


My -18 "A" was rebuilt by Pete Sanders in Helena, MT. after a wreck and I flew it back to Fairbanks in September 1987. I did the following: Light electricals and battery; bare panel and interior; Atlee Dodge simple baggage; stock 150 engine and 80/40 prop; stock fuel; Hendricks squared tips and ailerons at stock Cub span; flap gap seals over flaps and ailerons; flaps extended into fuselage; VG's on wings; stock Cub wing rigging. Weighed 1087# but could have been lighter with a lighter fabric job and stock wings. Would fly down to 28 GPS under cruise power in level flight. Next time I'd leave the wing stock but did like the aileron seals, and VG's especially on floats.

[/QUOTE]

Interesting to hear about Pete Sanders, he just passed away last summer at around 92 y.o. up until a few years ago he's come out to the airport everyday and sit and watch the goings on. I bought the pa-12 project I am about to finish up from Pete and just bought a PA-18A project from his estate, N9935D. Small world (but I'd hate to paint it.

BC12D-4-85
04-23-2017, 01:06 PM
Pete was an airplane enthusiast and fine gentleman. I'm saddened to hear of his passing. His life and work will continue in the planes and people he knew.

Gary

MT12
04-23-2017, 05:13 PM
Pete was an airplane enthusiast and fine gentleman. I'm saddened to hear of his passing. His life and work will continue in the planes and people he knew.

Gary
Yes a good guy for sure and enthusiast doesn't quite capture his passion. I wasn't aware of his 18A I do know he did a 12 that ended up in AK as well.

AirPigz
05-26-2017, 04:11 PM
Does anyone know for certain what year this version of the Piper logo was first used?

31489

Btw, started fabric last Friday and got both stabs, both flaps, both ailerons, both gear legs and the rudder covered (and stitched where applicable) but still have the tapes to install. Using the Stewart System and all is going well so far.

Martt
1959 PA-18A
N9460D

AirPigz
05-27-2017, 02:53 PM
Ok, so I have it confirmed that the Piper name in that style of script was in use in 1959, so I have taken that as a base and built up 'Super Cub' in that letter style to put on the project airplane. I don't think the airplanes came out of the factory with this specific graphic on the airplane, but that's ok... not looking to be 100% authentic, just authentic to the age.

I was unable to locate a version of "Super Cub' that was using this exact style. There's one close, but it's clearly not the exact style as the 'Piper', so I made my own last night and this morning.

This pic shows what I came up with. Still a little rough on the edges, but I'll clean that up and eventually have some vinyl stencils made.

31498

Let me know what ya think...

Martt
N9460D

cubscout
05-27-2017, 03:29 PM
Martt, I like your ideas. Aerographics has most if not all of the Piper logos as stock items, either as high quality vinyl stick-ons in just about any colour, or as paint masks. They can also do custom stuff if that matters. Many folks on here have dealt with them, I'm a very satisfied customer.

www.aergraphics.com

Please show us how it comes out, looking forward to this.

Thanks. cubscout

AirPigz
05-27-2017, 04:45 PM
Martt, I like your ideas. Aerographics has most if not all of the Piper logos as stock items, either as high quality vinyl stick-ons in just about any colour, or as paint masks. They can also do custom stuff if that matters. Many folks on here have dealt with them, I'm a very satisfied customer.

www.aerographics.com

Please show us how it comes out, looking forward to this.

Thanks. cubscout

I checked out their website and I see they do have this type of Super Cub graphic... I'll look closer on a computer later and see if I like it as well as what I've done. There are a few details on mine that I might like better... might check in to having my version made by them. I appreciate the info, and I'll be sure to show what I wind up doing : )

RoggenPilot
05-29-2017, 07:34 PM
I happen to like the paint scheme 3150431504

RoggenPilot
05-29-2017, 07:41 PM
31505E31505xample of script used

cubscout
05-29-2017, 07:47 PM
DANG! That's purty. Looks like I need to try to stretch my fuel range out to Roggen . But what's that funny-lookin thing with the odd windows in the back of the hangar....

Thanks. cubscout

CamTom12
05-29-2017, 07:54 PM
Looks like a pressurized 210?

AirPigz
05-29-2017, 07:55 PM
[QUOTE=RoggenPilot;689546]I happen to like the paint scheme

Wow, thank you for sharing those pix, they are very inspiring. I just got back to finishing the fabric on the elevators at 8:30pm tonight... Those pix will keep me going!

Martt
N9460D

RoggenPilot
05-29-2017, 08:00 PM
RagAero in Placerville CA did the rebuild recover paint. I bought it in its current condition. It's now hangared at Boulder Municipal. They use that that thing behind it to go places, the poor joyless souls.

RoggenPilot
05-29-2017, 08:05 PM
It is a P210, but my other roommate is a Champ.

skipster
05-29-2017, 08:21 PM
Ok, so I have it confirmed that the Piper name in that style of script was in use in 1959, so I have taken that as a base and built up 'Super Cub' in that letter style to put on the project airplane. I don't think the airplanes came out of the factory with this specific graphic on the airplane, but that's ok... not looking to be 100% authentic, just authentic to the age.

I was unable to locate a version of "Super Cub' that was using this exact style. There's one close, but it's clearly not the exact style as the 'Piper', so I made my own last night and this morning.

This pic shows what I came up with. Still a little rough on the edges, but I'll clean that up and eventually have some vinyl stencils made.

31498

Let me know what ya think...

Martt
N9460D
That is incorrect, that style was used later. I have made up exact copy masks for the Piper script that would be correct for 1959.

skipster
05-29-2017, 08:24 PM
31514 This picture shows a brand new 1959 PA18-95 at Lock Haven factory. I have stencil/ mask to duplicate the Piper on the cowling. Click on picture

cubscout
05-29-2017, 08:35 PM
RagAero in Placerville CA did the rebuild recover paint. I bought it in its current condition. It's now hangared at Boulder Municipal. They use that that thing behind it to go places, the poor joyless souls.

Well heck, I haven't been able to get to the PRB Consular Office to get an Entry Visa to the People's Republic of Boulder. But maybe if you can sneak out some time, like some of fly-ins.... And reliable rumour that there has gotten to be a pretty good cadre of Supercubs just up the road at Longmont, with occasional visitors from Erie and Platte Valley. Except when they fly out to places like La Garita. Or so I've heard :howdy

Paint job like the one just posted of the '59 PA-18A in factory cotton I flew quite a bit in a land far ago and long, long, away. The Piper and heck, even Cessna paint designers in that era had an eye for the paint lines which really complemented the aeroplane's lines. That one would be a LOT of work to lay out, though.

Thanks. cubscout

AirPigz
05-29-2017, 08:44 PM
31514 This picture shows a brand new 1959 PA18-95 at Lock Haven factory. I have stencil/ mask to duplicate the Piper on the cowling. Click on picture

I've seen that the script 'Super Cub' wasn't put on the airplanes in 59, but I thought that style was in use with putting 'Piper' on various other of their airplanes. Do you have any definitive info on when that script style was first used? The goal isn't to be accurate to factory paint, just accurate to the time period.

Thanx.

Martt
N9460D

RoggenPilot
05-29-2017, 09:38 PM
I married a genuine PRB woman, so I get conjugal visits. I still maintain a residence in Columbine. Fortunately the bride is a Wyoming ranch girl who grew up in the back of her dads ranch Supercub

i told the airport manager at BDU that my Cub is an "electric" model, so I can hangar there. And it's got an alternator and a battery

skipster
05-30-2017, 03:34 PM
Looks like 1951 was the first time for using that script, with the horsepower (125) after it. I see "Piper" in that script beginning in 1960

AirPigz
05-30-2017, 03:45 PM
Looks like 1951 was the first time for using that script, with the horsepower (125) after it. I see "Piper" in that script beginning in 1960

Thanx for the info. That makes it work for me... again, just trying to fit the era in general.

Martt

AirPigz
06-15-2017, 09:24 PM
Here's a long update with a lot of pix.

I've been working 70 hours a week on the project trying to get done in time to make it to Oshkosh. Might make it, might not. Since starting the first fabric work on May 19th I have the flaps, ailerons, stabs, elevators, rudder and gear legs all covered, stitched, and taped. Also, as of today, I have the first wing covered, stitched, and about half taped, along with the second wing almost finished covered and will be rib stitching on Saturday. If things go as hoped, I'll be ready to start spraying fill on the 24th. I'm using the Stewart System and so far I'm really liking it. Back in the 80's I used the Ceconite process on a set of T-Craft wings, and then in the 90's I did a Citabria in Stits. I'm using Ceconite fabric this time (Stewarts doesn't make fabric) and will be doing color in their EkoPoly.


31703

Some of you might remember that my thread here started with questions about float fittings. Here's a pic of the Dakota Cub fittings that I welded on, and specifically the Super Fil that I added on either side of the weld to help smooth out the transition. My desire all along is to have the fitting look more like a part of the airplane under the fabric than they typically look. I think this will help a lot, but won't really know until it's all done.


31704

Here's a close up looking down the leading edge tape on one of the ailerons. I find that the unique nature of the EkoBond glue makes it easy getting the tapes on really straight. Some of you might wonder about that pinked edge at the near end of the aileron... I like to finish off the ends with an end cap of fabric that gets cut around the radius and then folded over, but then I cover the fold-over with a tape near the edge so you don't see any fold-overs directly. This also allows me to run that last chord-wise tape in a straight line even if the end rib isn't quite true.


31705

This is a close up of the rudder trailing edge where the fabric overlap glue joint is on the left side. I mixed up some Super Fil and applied a very thin layer with a crisp metal putty knife to help mask that overlap. I don't have a pic handy of the trailing edge tape, but I'm pretty sure once I spray fill on it you won't be able to see that overlap joint thru it.


31692

The gear legs have the 1/2" square tube welded in for the 2,000# gross weight kit (centered on the front and rear tubes) so the inner surface isn't quite as funky shaped as a standard legs. I wanted a clean way for the brake line to exit so I made some aluminum 'washers' with a circle patch over them. Seems to have turned out pretty nice.


31706

Here's a close up of a tape going over the stab stitches. I use flat rib lacing cord and the staggerwing knot. My research on the Stewarts process really pointed out that a key to making the finish process come out really nice is making sure that excess EkoBond is removed carefully and quickly from the top and edges of the tape. Of course I won't know until I start spraying, but it looks to me like the edges are really going to look nice. I also go over the pinked edges with an iron at about 250 degrees which really makes them look tidy.


31689

31690

I've watched the Stewart videos on youtube several times to pick up on the details, but I wasn't keen on using the blue paper shop towels for removing the excess EkoBond... so I thought I'd try the paper towels that we use in our home. They are cheap WalMart towels that are perfed at far less than full size (their term on the package is: 'sized 4 spills') - they sell the same towel full size so you have to look for 'sized 4 spilles'. They seem to be working fantastic. I fold them in half, and then again into quarters. That gives me 8 surfaces I can use to pick up EkoBond with by folding them as I use them. By having the towel nice and flat, the wipe is very smooth (compared to just using a towel in a wad) and I also get great mileage this way. I'm guessing I will wind up using about 6 rolls of these paper towels for the entire covering process... about $11 worth. I also don't have much trash since they are very flat once they've done their job.


31691

I work alone and often their isn't even anyone around that could help me turn the wings over, so I came up with the idea of hanging them leading edge down for the entire process. I install the fabric, stitch, tape, and will spray fill and color without ever moving the wings. I have 3 different loops in the rope they hang with that allows me to change the height by moving the carabiner. And I can move them to a different height by myself. So far, the middle position is perfect for installing fabric, stitching, and taping. I will likely move them to the highest position when I spray the leading edges. This arrangement also makes good use of the 20' x 25' space that I'm doing all the work in.


31693

I have a blue and a tan tarp on the floor anywhere that the fabric will touch. I installed heavyweight Ceconite 101 on the lower surface, running from the spar on the top of the leading edge and then around the flap and aileron well. Then the the upper surface, which is medium weigh Ceconite 102, is installed from the spar on the bottom of the leading edge (with a 3" glue joint) up an over the top of the wing to the flap and aileron well. This gives a full double layer of fabric on the leading edge, with the under layer being heavyweight. Best of all, no tapes will be in the radius of the leading edge. A 4" tape will cover the 3" glue joint on the bottom of the wing over the spar area.


31697

The first wing as I make the 3" overlap seam on the lower surface. The bottom of the wing has the heavyweight fabric lightly shrunk, and the medium weight is hanging down to the floor as I make that glue joint. I then pull it up and spring clamp in a few places as I get it in position and glued at the trailing edge and tip.


31694

Here are both layers installed on the first wing, with the 3" glue joint near the spar. The leading edges look fantastic with that double layer. I also made new skins anywhere there were dents (5 new sections total) so it looks like these leading edges are gonna look awesome.


31695

It took me 12 hours of labor to stitch the first wing. Flat cord slows the process down a bit but I think it's totally worth it. I don't like having chalk line dust on the wing so I lay out the stitch locations with a 6 foot steel rule. I made a needle out of 3/32" welding rod with the slightly bent tip. Works great. I lay on the floor to run the needle from the top to the bottom side and then back to the front for the first 5 stitches, then I stand on a step ladder and reach over the trailing edge for the rest of the stitches. I think this is much nice than bending over for every stitch... especially now that I'm 56 years old!


31696

Both wings last night just before giving up for the night. The near wing only has the bottom fabric glued, not yet shrunk.



31698

Here's the second wing today with its lower fabric lightly shrunk and the upper fabric pulled up and over as I get ready to trim and glue it in place. The 3" overlap seem can be seen near the floor.



I've made a lot of progress in the last 4 weeks, and I have the fatigue to prove it! However, I'm feeling really good about the work and I'm hopeful I can keep the pace up and have the airplane in the air before long. I welcome comments but I will say that my priority is working on the airplane, so I might not be able to respond for a while.

Martt
1959 PA-18A
N9460D

Bearhawk Builder
06-16-2017, 05:52 AM
Nicely done! As long as you wipe all the glue off or through the fabric your pinks will look great. The Ekofill is somewhat thinner than some other mid coats so it's harder to 'bury' the tapes but I find you can lightly hit the pinks with the iron after the Ekofill is sprayed if needed and then carefully sand the edges. Do this between coats and the edges look really good.

AirPigz
06-21-2017, 08:23 PM
The plan early on in the project was to cover the slightly beat up red painted interior panels with a red leather as a way of hiding imperfections and adding a great look and smell. I found a source for really nice leather at a great price and ordered a couple color samples. Both were close but one was a bit thinner with a little less texture, so I choose it.

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I got started covering and installing the panels a couple days ago (while moving various parts of the project forward at once) and the results so far have been awesome. I'm using 3M Yellow Super Trim Adhesive and I'm confident it's gonna do very well. It's $26 for a 19oz can, so it's not a cheap way to go, but cheap adhesive is rarely ever a good choice. I think the most important step is using a roller that you can really lean into to help the adhesive that you apply to both parts make really good contact. This thin leather used with this adhesive looks really nice going around the outside corners... nice tight radius.

I hammered out the bigger dents, did some straightening, and used some professional bondo designed for really small imperfections to smooth out the tiny dings. Now that some of the the panels are covered, they are almost perfectly smooth... really couldn't be any happier with the results. Once the seats are in, which will be a combo of the same red leather and a cream leather, I think it's gonna all look amazing.

And yes, I left the hopper mounting stub on both sides of the fuselage and you can see the left one pushing against the leather. I've got my reasons for leaving them, and so far I'm thinking the leather tent over them is the least noticeable solution to covering them up.

Martt
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D

Cub junkie
06-21-2017, 08:30 PM
Nice work. I know you wrote about taking this ship to Oshkosh. That would be nice but the Piper nuts would really like to see this bird at Sentimental Journey next year in my opinion.

AirPigz
06-21-2017, 09:06 PM
Nice work. I know you wrote about taking this ship to Oshkosh. That would be nice but the Piper nuts would really like to see this bird at Sentimental Journey next year in my opinion.

Thank you. The airplane will be living in California (belongs to a brother I have out there) but I might be able talk him into letting me fly it across the country to Sentimental next year. That would sure be an awesome adventure. I went to one of Clyde Smith's workshops last November and now I have Lock Haven desires : )

Martt

AirPigz
07-15-2017, 08:33 AM
I've been working 7 days a week (70+ hours a week) for the last 6 weeks... fabric work is basically done and on to some of the paint finishing now. I got the left wing sprayed a few days back and it turned looking really nice. I've now experienced the full Stewart Systems process and I really like it.


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I have little experience painting large objects, and also haven't used a real spray gun much, tho I did cover and paint a Citabria in the 90's, so I've been careful to try to research how to do things and have paid close attention to the specified Stewart's procedures. I'm using a DiVilbiss Finishline 4 waterborne gun (https://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-FLG671-FinishLine-Waterborne-Value/dp/B006ZO2ML0), and a large compressor able to supply the minimum 23psi at 13cfm. I've used the updated Stewart's procedure of brushed, thinned ekobond to fill the fabric weave instead of the previous procedure of using brushed ekofill. After 3 crosscoats of gray ekofill with some sanding I'm doing 2 crosscoats of white ekoprime and a lot of detailed sanding. The ekoprime is really great to sand and it doesn't have the somewhat clammy feel that ekofill does. Plus, the white color makes it really easy to see minor imperfections.

On the left wing I sprayed the Daytona White ekopoly base color with 6 crosscoats on the top and 4 on the bottom. This paint is applied in thin 'fog' coats to build up the color saturation, then finished with a final 'wet' coat. This procedure of really thin coats is new to me so I was a little uncertain applying it. I'm also putting in the full amount of 'flattener' in the paint (2 parts paint, 1 part flattener) and I didn't know how that would affect the look of the 'wet' coat as it was sprayed. As a result, I didn't have the wet coat as wet as it really should have been. I had full color saturation, but I did not have an even and correct sheen between the bays. It was only noticeable when the light was in the right spot, but I confirmed the problem by moving the wing outside into the sun the day after painting. So, I decided I would scuff sand the entire wing (these paints must be scuffed for adhesion) and recoat. I added 3 more crosscoats (EDIT: I had said 4 crosscoats originally but it was 3) to both the top and bottom, and made sure that the wet pass truly went on with a wet look. This recoat was done 26 hours after I had sprayed the first coats. I was pleased to see that not only did I get the even sheen I needed, but the flattener did indeed soften the gloss quite a bit from the way it looked when it was truly wet on the wing.

I learned a lot in that relatively short period of time, and fortunately, my missteps were easy to fix. 24 hours after spraying the recoat of Daytona White. I started masking for the Santa Fe Red leading edge. Since I work alone and wouldn't have quick access to a helper to turn a wing over, I have done all of the wing fabric work with the wing hanging leading-edge-down. This has worked surprising well from fabric install, rib stitching, tape application, fill and sand, and color coat. I wasn't sure what to expect trying to mask a spanwise line tho hanging this way. Turned out to be a bit of a challenge but no problem at all. I first ran a line of making tape about 1/8" from the desired line, then I put a 1/4" 3M fineline #218 tape on top of the masking tape and right on the desired line. then I masked off the entire wing with thin plastic sheet and more masking tape. The curve around the tip was all eyeballed (around midnight actually) and ultimately turned out to be easier than I expected, but still a lot of work. I also had the wing hanging in the highest of the 3 positions I had in my hanging ropes, which put the leading edge high enough that I could lay under and spray the nose.

I didn't get spraying until after 1am, and by then the temperature had dropped and the humidity was rising. By the time I had the first fog coat on the humidity was 76% and rising. 75% is the stated max for spraying, so I was heading into a problem. I decided to heat the space to see if that would help, and it did. I ran the heat up to 85 degrees and got the humidity down to 70%. The ekopoly needs to tack up between fog coats, and the high humidity was really slowing that down. Once I got it back down, the tack time reduced significantly and I could get back to applying more coats relatively quickly. I'm guessing I applied around 10 fog coats of the red on the leading edge. At about 3:15am I sprayed the final wet coat and immediately pulled the fineline tape off. The edges looked fantastic, which was a huge relief.

I came back about 10am and removed the plastic sheet and masking tape and was really pleased to see how smooth the transition line was between the two colors. You can just barely feel it. Really glad I chose to pull the fineline tape right away, otherwise there would be a noticeable edge at the color change. All the masking worked out great, but I did have a few spots where the red bled under the tape when it went over a pinked tape edge. At about 2pm I used a pair of precision tweezers and a 4x magnifying glass to gently scrape the bleed under off before the paint before fully cured. The spots were small, you wouldn't have even noticed them from 10 feet away, but nice to have the line look pretty much perfect even up close.

I'm hoping to spray the base color on the fuselage today, and with what I've learned so far, I'm confident I can do a good job the first time around.

I'm very happy with the Stewart System. These colors look just right for a vintage style Super Cub, and the satin luster with the flattener added just looks fantastic.

Martt Clupper
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D

cubpilot2
07-15-2017, 02:57 PM
The wings look great!

What was your reason for using heavy wt. fabric on the lower side and medium wt. on top? Was it to reduce the "scalloping"?

I have not seen a wing covered with the fuel tank installed before. How did that work out for your stitching with the padding on the ribs?

Thanks for the detail of your experience with the Stewarts. I've been thinking of using it on my next project.

AirPigz
07-15-2017, 11:09 PM
The wings look great!

What was your reason for using heavy wt. fabric on the lower side and medium wt. on top? Was it to reduce the "scalloping"?

I have not seen a wing covered with the fuel tank installed before. How did that work out for your stitching with the padding on the ribs?

Thanks for the detail of your experience with the Stewarts. I've been thinking of using it on my next project.


I figured the tighter weave of medium weight would make the top look a little nicer, and the extra strength of heavyweight on the bottom would help keep the fabric from vibrating as much in the prop blast, would make it a little less likely to be damaged if something is thrown up at the wing by a tire, and, it also worked out nice in that I installed the fabric such that I have a full double layer of fabric covering the leading edge, and that first layer is the heavyweight fabric. I get the protection over the screws and edges with the heavyweight fabric, along with a general smooth look, but the tighter weave of medium is what you see on the outside of the leading edge. The glue joint for the two is back at the spar on the lower side, covered by a 4" tape that is centered over the spar. So, there are no tapes on the leading edge until that one over the spar on the bottom, and I have a full double layer of fabric. I wont know for certain how well that works/looks until I have the wings on the fuselage, but looking at the red leading edge as it is, no tapes there sure looks nice.

On the fuel tank: I made a special hook/needle tool to be able to stitch the tank ribs with the tank in place. The hook tool allowed me to get just over the rib (going in the hole in one side and out the hole on the other side) then I would feed the cord into the small drilled hole in the end of the hook and pull the hook back out, effectively pulling the cord over the rib. From there I'd tie the knot, then switch to the regular needle to get to the next stitch location, then use the hook tool again.

Stewarts Systems updated their installation manual in February. The revision #3 (2/01/2017) manual can be downloaded on the support page at http://www.stewartsystems.aero/support.aspx and it includes the info on using thinned ekobond to seal the weave instead of the previous method of using ekofill. The previous method required wetting the fabric to help with penetration into the weave. The current method requires that the fabric be cleaned with ekoclean, then rinsed and dried, but you don't wet the fabric before applying the thinned ekobond.

The older videos on youtube from Stewart's are very helpful in understanding the way things work with the system (I watched some of them several times) tho it's most important to read, understand, and follow the directions laid out in the revised installation manual, especially since that's where you'll find the update on sealing the weave.

Martt
N9460D

Bearhawk Builder
07-16-2017, 01:53 PM
Nice write up on the Stewart's paint process. Your results appear to be very nice. Interesting on the ekobond as a filler, I'll have to look that up. What do think the advantage is? Sound like you did everything right, watching humidity, heating when needed etc. The fog coat/wet coat process is actually an easy spray process right? Almost eliminates the risk of runs. If when you pull your tapes you have some bleed under a cloth dampened with denatured alcohol will clean it off before its cured. Just a heads up, covering fresh paint with plastic sheeting as a masking for a contrasting color can cause blushing spots. Ask how I know.

AirPigz
07-16-2017, 05:20 PM
Nice write up on the Stewart's paint process. Your results appear to be very nice. Interesting on the ekobond as a filler, I'll have to look that up. What do think the advantage is? Sound like you did everything right, watching humidity, heating when needed etc. The fog coat/wet coat process is actually an easy spray process right? Almost eliminates the risk of runs. If when you pull your tapes you have some bleed under a cloth dampened with denatured alcohol will clean it off before its cured. Just a heads up, covering fresh paint with plastic sheeting as a masking for a contrasting color can cause blushing spots. Ask how I know.

My guess on the ekobond as a weave sealer, which I've heard is how the process was instructed at some point in the past (before the change to using a brushed coat of ekofill), is that the thinned ekobond really easily permeates and encapsulates the fabric, and the ekofill appears to have needed the fabric to be wetted to get good penetration. If the fabric wasn't wetted sufficiently, I'm guessing the bond wasn't as good as it should have been. The switch back to using ekobond makes this critical step easier to get right.

I suppose the fog coat/wet coat process is pretty easy, but it's not what most of us are used to. So it becomes a bit more of a challenge when first using it. Plus, the paint goes on very thin this way which means you have to watch closely to be sure you have full color saturation everywhere.

I'll try some alcohol on the next stripes for removing any bleed under. I didn't look at all of the line details when I pulled the tapes before since it was already 3:30am and I need to be done! It was 7 hours later before I realized there were a few little bleed under spots. Don't know if the alcohol would have worked them.

Thanx for the info on the plastic making sheet.

Martt
N9460D

AirPigz
08-31-2017, 11:05 PM
Most of my project updates have been going to my facebook page, but figured I should get current here again.

I got the fuselage finished painted and moved down the stairs from the workshop loft area. 4 guys down 21 steps with not much extra clearance, but we didn't make contact anywhere, so that's good!

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Got the gear on quickly and moved the fuselage over to a neighboring hangar to finish things up. Built the boot cowl this last week and also got the second wing finish painted. Hoping to be putting the wings on soon. I'll be ready to hang the engine soon too.

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Still have the small fabric covered parts to spray ekofill and color on, but will be on that soon. Lots of details yet to go, but getting closer, and sure happy with the way she's looking : )

Martt Clupper
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D

WanaBNACub
09-02-2017, 09:29 PM
Looking really good Martt! I would say you did a fantastic job on the paint, as well as everything else!

AirPigz
09-02-2017, 09:57 PM
Looking really good Martt! I would say you did a fantastic job on the paint, as well as everything else!

Thank you for the encouraging feedback, I appreciate it! It's been a real bonus for me to have you and your project just out ahead of me to keep me moving forward, and I'm feeling the excitement that you must have now that you're so close. You've done a great job as well... truly makes for an experience of a lifetime. Be sure to triple check everything important and be careful as you prepare to be back in the air :D

Martt

Jim Hann
09-14-2017, 10:21 AM
Cub is looking good Martt! By the way, nice job on TRM, just finished listening to your episode. [emoji41]

AirPigz
09-14-2017, 11:49 AM
Cub is looking good Martt! By the way, nice job on TRM, just finished listening to your episode. [emoji41]

Thanx! I haven't been on or done a podcast for several years so that was a lot of fun. Anyone that likes The Rocketeer movie should check out The Rocketeer Minute podcast, they go over a minute of the movie at a time, and I was a guest host on episode 103 that was posted a couple days ago : http://www.rocketeerminute.com/episodes/minute-103-the-closest

I did several podcast interviews on my own site (http://www.airpigz.com) back in the day but the podcasts aren't hosted any longer, but the website is. Lots of avgeekery there, even if there's isn't much SC stuff.

Martt

AirPigz
11-07-2017, 08:36 AM
Once again I've been posting most of my updates on my personal facebook page, but figured I better post here again as I've been very thankful for the input that's come from the members here.

For a variety of reasons I'm running behind on the restoration on N9460D but I'm finally getting pretty close to completion. The inclusion of 8 STC mods that weren't in the original plan, plus doing the bulk of the work in an alternative (small) workspace have added quite a bit of time... plus, it's an airplane project, when do those EVER go to plan??

Anyway, the engine is back on, and I painted the upper boot cowl late Saturday night and got to see what it looks like on the airplane yesterday. I think it's looking pretty nice.


The cowling has been a lot of work with paint stripping, replacing some parts, patching some holes, and trying to make the aluminum nose bowl look good. It had a significant collection of dents and dings. I hammered out about the 85% of the ugly and then used filler to dress up another 15%. I figure 95% is good enough at this point. The test fitting yesterday of it and the rest of the cowling went extremely well. I had to make several repairs to the cowling mounting arms, and with a new firewall and boot cowl, I wasn't sure how everything would come back together. Fortunately it's all fitting really well right from the start.

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Now that the lower cowl has been fitting once again, I can now get the muffler pin holes drilled and get it mounted permanently. I had the muffler overhauled and those holes aren't in place yet.

The instrument panel is complete and I'm really happy that it's perfectly living up to my vision for it. Simple, retro, and really crisp were the goals there. And the RAM mount for an iPad mini seems to be working exactly as I had hoped. Headset jacks will be up in the left wing root, and after a lot of thought I'm putting the ptt buttons on the stick just below where your hand sits. Even tho my first thought was to mount the ptt slightly left of the stick center (where your little finger is when you hand is wrapped around the stick, I eventually decided that to the right of center makes more sense. A light grip on the stick (with maybe just 3 fingers) actually puts your little finger to the right of the stick center. I'm hoping this pans out well in practice. Time will tell.

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The intercom at the far left of the panel is a Sigtronics spa-400 with their 2-1/4" round face. I removed their graphics and added the really simple retro look ones that I made. I used an image of the old 'THROTTLE' marking from the side panel to build up a custom font. The letters I built up where then converted for free on a website I found into an actual font. After building up the graphics for all the markings I had a local sign shop print them on a clear matte vinyl and then cut them out. The original plan was to have vinyl letters cut directly, but the small letters were not working with their equipment. By printing them and then cutting oversize (there's some of the clear vinyl beyond the letter edges) it all worked pretty well. I didn't expect that vinyl would stick well enough in the long run, so the plan was to clearcoat over to seal them in place. I found a rattle can matte clear coat that's actually a 2 part catalyzed polyurethane (once the plunger is pushed and the 2 parts mixed, it has a 48 hour pot life) and it worked really well. It's $25 a can, but seemed cheaper than trying to find an automotive matte clearcoat.

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I'm also planning to incorporate a bluetooth unit (https://www.crazedpilot.com/bluetooth-headset-interface-for-foreflight-garmin-pilot-audio-alerts/) that should easily allow Foreflight audio (and more importantly, music) to be fed from the iPad into the headsets without interrupting radio or intercom usage.

I made an aluminum tray to mount the handheld in. The mount has nut plates behind the throttle tunnel so it can easily be removed so the radio can just be gone if desired. I also altered the AA battery case that the Sporty's SP-400 has with a 10-32 nutplate inside (that case can't be used with AA batteries now) and have a thumb screw that comes up from underneath the radio to hold it in the tray. The thumbscrew is captured on a line so you can't lose it when you are removing or installing it. Where the radio is mounted makes it easy to see and adjust, keeps it just clear of flap handle operation, and allows the external antenna coax and other connecting wires to quickly disappear under the panel to keep the installation looking pretty clean. It and the iPad will get power from 2 individually fused 12v power ports mounted just back under the panel out of view.

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Just a couple thousand things left to do and this ole girl will be flying again : )

Martt Clupper
Open Door Flying
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D
1959 PA-18A flat top

I'm setting up shop to continue aircraft work going forward... here's the Open Door Flying facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/opendoorflying).

Indabush
11-08-2017, 09:27 PM
Nice job

Bearhawk Builder
11-12-2017, 09:00 AM
Martt, really like the simple panel. Where did you find the slip indicator? Is that custom printing?

AirPigz
11-12-2017, 10:50 PM
Martt, really like the simple panel. Where did you find the slip indicator? Is that custom printing?

Thanx... it's the vacuum turn coordinator that was in the airplane but I removed the dual venturies and had no plan to include any vacuum instruments in the restoration, so I perked up when Keystone Instruments mentioned they have modified some of them to just simply be a nice slip indicator. With the needle removed and the hash marks gone it makes a perfect place for some custom graphics. So I built up that copy of the old Piper logo and added Super Cub then too so they could silk screen those graphics on the face.

I'm a big fan of disciplined coordinated flight, so having a nice big (and very attractive) ball front and center should encourage my brother (who the airplane is for) to pay attention to his feet : )

mvivion
11-13-2017, 09:17 AM
FYI, Reiker makes a couple different sizes of slip/skid instruments. Their relatively small height allows you to mount them high on the panel where they’ll do the most good and not interfere with other instruments.

MTV

AirPigz
04-28-2018, 08:30 AM
I've been bad about updating the project here, with most of the updates going on facebook, but figured it was time.

Income for my full-time work on the project came to an end in early November 2017, so my work slowed to a drip at that point. Plus, we had essentially a 6 month winter in northern Indiana this year, so it was harder to deal with the cold than in normal years. However, I've been working on it when I can and I'm hopefully just a few weeks away from first flight at this point. Still have access covers and wing root fairing to finish up, and a boatload of paperwork.

I've been taxiing some in the last week and everything is going extremely well, once I got a leaky left brake solved. The engine only has 100 hours since major, but it didn't run much in the last 10 years. So far so good tho. Starts great and runs great.

I obsessed quite a bit about the changes I made to the original Piper paint scheme, and so far I'm very happy with the way it's looking. Every change I came up with is looking exactly like I had hoped. And the Stewart's Santa Fe Red and Daytona White are just awesome. Plus, I couldn't be any happier with what adding the flattener did to the sheen... I'm unusual in that I just don't like glossy airplanes, and the satin finish here is a huge winner for me.

I just painted the red on the rudder and cowl doors a couple days ago, these pix are from right after they were mounted. The general shape of the white on the cowl door, and the size and shape of the radius at the leading edge came out just perfect in my opinion. I'll probably add 'Super Cub' on the cowl door, but for now I'm leaving some details like that undone so I can get completed more quickly. I'm also very happy with the decision to retain the flat top and hopper door... they add a very cool element to the airplane, and the hopper door literally looks like brand new now that it's been stripped and painted.

My brother in California who owns the airplane is gonna let me keep it in Indiana until OSH so I can fly it up there. Then we'll meet there and head west to get it back home for him. I'm sure looking forward to flying this ole girl instead of working on her!

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Martt Clupper
Open Door Flying LLC
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D
1959 PA-18A flat top

Rice farmer
04-28-2018, 10:18 AM
Awesome Martt. Im a bit jealous of the paint scheme. It will be great to have another flat top here in California!

AirPigz
04-28-2018, 10:44 AM
Awesome Martt. Im a bit jealous of the paint scheme. It will be great to have another flat top here in California!

I hope you don't mind that I'm glad to hear you're a little jealous of the paint : )

When we get it out there around the first of August, we'll have to try to meet up if possible. It'll be over at Lakeport, in Lake County. Where exactly are you at?

Rice farmer
04-28-2018, 05:17 PM
We are between Sacramento and Yuba City. CA 07. I probably won’t make OSH this year so see you in August.

daedgerton
04-28-2018, 06:49 PM
So nice... really love the A models... I really liked the Flannagan STC for the windows but think it is really cool that you redid the hopper door and kept it "Ag"... Would love to get my hands on an "A" model project!

AirPigz
04-28-2018, 07:19 PM
So nice... really love the A models... I really liked the Flannagan STC for the windows but think it is really cool that you redid the hopper door and kept it "Ag"... Would love to get my hands on an "A" model project!

Thank you for your comment... I felt right from the start that keeping the hopper door was a good idea, but now that it's nearly done, I think it's just an awesome element. It's what'll make this airplane stand out, and will make it a real conversation piece everywhere it goes : )

AirPigz
06-25-2018, 07:41 AM
The good ole flat top N9460D has finally flown once again! Sunday evening I made 3 takeoffs and landings, which is actually the first time I've ever flown a Super Cub, and everything went absolutely great.

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I had hoped to get her finished 10 days ago and then make the trip to Sentimental Journey, but 2 days before first flight the left mag stop working. Turns put that the impulse coupling had a variety of issues, but I got that repaired and got her off the ground last evening.

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I now have a few small improvement tasks to get done between now and OSH, then I'll be flying her up there for the week, and then my half brother (the owner) will meet me there and we'll fly on out to California where he lives. Should be quite the adventure!

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The project took a lot longer and costs more than expected, so I guess you could say it was right on track. I figure I had the equivalent of 13 months of full time work in it. The original plan was for 6 months, but I underestimated the amount of work (especially since I had never worked on a Super Cub before) and then we added 8 STC mods after the project started which added a lot of time. There was also several unseen damage issues that added more time. All in all, I'm pleased with the time it took to get it done. Total project duration was around 20 months because income for my work on it ended in October 2017 and I had to go back to my regular job for income.

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I couldn't happier that the we kept the hopper door and flat top for this airplane. It makes it really unique and should make for lots of interesting conversion.

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I'm hopeful I get to do another Super Cub restoration, especially a vintage feel one like this, tho would be nice to mix the vintage with bush, with some nice big tires : )

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Look for the ole flat top at OSH18!

Martt Clupper
Open Door Flying LLC
Warsaw, Indiana
N9460D
1959 PA-18A flat top

daedgerton
06-25-2018, 10:34 AM
Gorgeous! Hope to see it in person at KOSH!

supercub
06-25-2018, 10:51 AM
Nice, and like the originality.