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Super Cub Questions - Help needed

Lampies

Registered User
Porterville
Hi folks

Since my last thread, we have decided to go the Experimental route on our Super Cub project. We are slowly getting somewhere so the bigger decisions has to be made. If anyone can assist, I have the following questions

1-Extended Landing gear

I know there has been quite a lot of threads covering all the pros and cons regarding the extended gear. I've been looking specially at the 6" extended. My questions are, since I want the extra AoA, ground clearance for a big prop and the looks factor, is it worth while installing the 6" on the Cub? What suspension do you prefer for the longer arm? What long terms negative affects does this gear have on your airframe? Does anybody have plans for a jig to build these yourself of where can I buy professional built 6" extendeds and for how much?

2-The Engine

We have the Dynafocal Engine Mount. We are planning on a Lyc O-360. My Questions are, which O-360 do you prefer and why? What installation tips should I keep in mind when installing? How many value do I add when installing the 360 on the Cub for future resale value?


3-The propeller

Since we are planning to go the O-360 route, the Pawnee 84" looks like a good option. Since it is pitched at 42", should it be repitched for a climb prop for the Cub? How abundant are these pawnee props compared to the 90"? Does the Pawnee prop fit the 0360 or do you need an adapter? Tyres are currently the 8.50x6 on standard gear. Will the prop clearance be enough for the Pawnee prop? And how will the clearance be when standing on 26" and 6" extended? And then also, what is the cost of a Pawnee prop?


4-Vortex Generators

Also a very famous few words on this website. As I can see for myself, the effects this VGs has on your aircraft is remarkable. My questions are, do you get different sizes of VGs and how do the different sizes affected stall speed and the angle? Where is the best place to buy and how much will it cost?


5-Weight Saving

Since it is an original Cub, the frame is basically as light as it can be, but weight can be saved by the add ons you install. The Cub is still in project state so it is a good time to start with the weight saving while we can. Where are good areas to start with weight saving and what can we do?


All the input will be appreciated

fly safe

Lampies
 
This sounds as though you are starting with a certified Cub. If so, you had better have a talk with the FAA or a DAR before you turn this into just a pile of parts. Many threads here have discussed this topic.

There are STCs for the extended gear, engine and vortex generators. Your prop choice is not approved on the 0-360 in accordance with the prop TC due to vibration issues.
 
Welcome, i would start by using the search feature on the home page. Good discussions on 6" gear. engine choices, props, VGs and weight reduction. There is a lot of great information on this website. I think you can learn a lot from what is here and ask questions you might have after reading the threads on the associated threads. I don't think you will get as much information on a request for information on this many subjects and especially since there is so much already posted on these subjects.
 
Adding anything for "the looks factor" and then saying you are wanting to stay light does not make any sense.:banghead:
 
Just curious here but, in your last thread you asked about an L21 project without a data plate and were given a lot of sound advise about the inability to go experimental. So did you acquire that fuselage and still believe you can build it experimental?
 
Bob

We have not yet bought the Cub. A lot of water should still flow. The current owner is busy with the registration along with the CAA. In South Africa we have a category called Not Type Certified Aircraft (which is not exactly the same as the FAA's Experimental Category). Aircraft that you will find in this category are Veterans, Ex-Military/Warbird, Homebuilt, Restorations, etc etc. so this aircraft will be registered in the NTCA Category. But like I said, a lot of water! The reason for this topic was to see the diffident opinions from people who knows what they are talking about, on what can be installed on this aircraft and if that specific installation is possible

L
 
To the original post....

1- I wouldn't favor 6" gear. I prefer 3" heavy duty gear. Additional AOA from big tires is more than adequate. Extended gear is primarily used to allow 82" props with skis but the HD 3" has become fairly standard. Atlee Dodge makes 6" ext gear. You'll need new shock struts, too. Powder coated you'll be around $2K USD.

2- The 360 I notice most is the A4M. Probably because that's what Cubcrafters used. If you're experimental I'd recommend looking at an 0-340.

3- At 180hp I'd choose a Catto composite propellor.

4- VGs? Micro Aerodynamics. Easy choice.

5- Weight saving? The very best place to start would be to use the 0-340 and Catto prop. 95% of your pursuit would be accomplished right there.
 
if that specific installation is possible

L

on non type certificate aircraft anything is possible.

The question becomes what is practical, safe, and fits the mission you intend to use, (can not believe I got the mission statement before SB!).

I remember Atlee telling me he quit selling 6" gear because there were lots of attach fitting failures with the long arm. 3" HD is pretty standard for most folks. If you need more, put 35" tires on.

Engine and prop are big weight items, great advice above. Also read through Bill Rusk's "Building a Javron Cub" to see his weight measures.

Easy couple of places to keep it light: less dinner for pilots, and not adding stuff because "I might some day want this". Mission specific for weight.

Also, check out Randy Appling's Carbon leading edges, baggage and floor boards.
 
One thing that will help is to define the mission of the plane. Is this just a weekend fun plane short flights with light load to know runways/smooth gravel bars, or Is this a long haul 8hr a day plus machine carrying heavy loads into rough country. Do you want a super STOL monster? Do you want to fly faster than 100mph? As you build do not take shortcuts and just get it done. Gear and prop are easy to change out if you don't like something. Tanks, extended baggage, instruments, and wing shape/size are a lot harder to change so think ahead. How old/nimble are you and your passengers? climbing into a jacked up cub can be a pain for the older high milage crowd. Everything is a trade off, no right or wrong just try to figure out what you want to do with the plane first (not always easy ) than build to fit.
Steve is correct doing a search will give you a lot better info. But I have java in hand so!! Extended gear call Jay and see if he has it, 6 in gear on skis is hard on the airframe if you don't stay straight,. Dynafocal mount will cost you a few extra lbs. O360 you need to decide if you want a constant speed or fix pitch prop. Any money you put into the plane should be considered lost forever the only way to get it back is to fly it out of the plane. Pawnee is a great prop 84/42 is a climb prop around 5 grand. They are great for heavy work cutting through brush and rough work. If you are not doing hard core bush work than a cato or whirlwind is better. Standard gear on 850X6 is to short for a pawnee. Micro VGs are designed for a power on landing/approach that is what I would recommend if you do them lots of exp ones out there. Weight is very important in the STOL competition world. No electrical system, fabric interior, lightweight/mimal floor, are great for weight loss but not so good if you want to load/unload lots of gear and equipment daily. Belly Pod? put the tabs in now. Floats? I have a heavy working cub, that carries sled dogs, propane bottles, lumber, camping/hunting gear, and what ever else I can get in it so a full metal interior and belly pod for me. I am not that smooth of a pilot so 31in Bushwheel with 3 inch gear is the ticket.
The thread by Bill Rusk covers most all the points. If I was to build an experimental it would be quite similar to his. Another thing to consider is finding parts after you bend it. If you use some one off part and break 200 miles on the other side of nowhere how long is it going to take to get a new part ???? No right or wrong just things to think about.
DENNY
 
Lampies, you might consider posting your location, the fact you are working with a different set of regulations as well as differences in sourcing parts everyone here can do a better job of answering your questions and offering guidance that will be of more use to you.
 
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