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Get heat in supercub

C

Clifford

Registered User
Lebanon NH
Have exp supercub, have conventional heat muff next to firewall but don't seem to get much heat out of it. Would appreciate any suggestions.
 
Call Atlee Dodge and order one of their heat robber, aka back seat heat kits. That will help.

also, check the heat shroud and verify there are no leaks....if there are, seal em up. Then, verify you have good flow into the heat shroud. If not, figure out a way to improve flow through the muff. This may be as simple as verifying that the cabin heat valve is actually moving full travel.

MTV
 
Cliff, the idea is to slow the air down going through the muff enough to allow heat to build, not too slow though. You might experiment with restricting the exit side of the muff to see if it helps, assuming you have enough airflow to begin with. Also maximizing the surface area to heat up will help, some do this with a stainless spring wound around the pipe or stainless wool stuffed inside the muff.
Dave
 
Do what Mike says - I have FAD's back seat kit in mine... down to 10F so far I only run about half pulled running approx 2350 rpm and very little original front heat (heats feet too much).
 
Cliff, you're experimental, you could just add another heat muff. It looks like that's all the Dodge set up is. Look here robbinswings.com. $110.00 for the set up.
 
One thing to do is to move the air inlet to the lower right front bafle like the Sutton exhaust it double the flow of air in, or use a complete Sutton with heat ribbond ,been working awsome with my bird.
 
Backseat kit is extra weight IMHO and costs money but mainly I believe it's not as useful as just running a longer piece of scat from pilots heat at the floor and run the scat tube to the rear pax--and their right foot won't burn off, i believe more user friendly for your pax and if u need additional defrost on the windscreen or side windows you can use that long scat to assist--then quickly remove for summer ops

I'm getting a new a fuse done now and will not put that kit in--I will be running the long scat like I currently have

for pilot to get heat you can attach automotive metal flex scat and attach that at firewall or get the standard scat and zip tie it so it point towards your feet--about 12-16" in length is all you need to attach it to firewall and make the bend so it points towards the pilots feet

i prefer when solo to keep the firewall heat off cause it works to good and heats my feet up so when I need heat my long scat that runs to the back runs to the under seat storage spot then I just fold it back to point towards the firewall and when folded back on itself it sits just below the lower door and terminates about the handle of door

my old standard muffler got compliments about heat and once I got the AD hot rod muffler it seems I barely I have the heat on and my door leaks fairly bad---I have zero need for anymore heat and about -25 is the coldest I've flown in and again that day my heat rocked it and was barely cracked open---I also wear a lot of clothes so that may help! My stylish green one piece winter nomex suit helps keep that chill off!

if you don't have the hole cut in the firewall and if it's a pain to cut on a flying cub and u have the defroster I would prolly only run one line to the defroster and rig some crazy thing to the other side of the Y to blow heat for your area and still run the long scat to the rear for the pax

on my current plane the previous owner only hooked up one of the defrost tubes (it appears due to rigging of panel getting that second line plumbed was impossible-so it's taped shut). I haven't felt the need at all for that second vent line for defrost so on my new fuse I am only going to cut one hole in the dash for heat and it will be as centered as I can get it---and if I need more I will use the long scat to assist

its what works for me....
 
Schnell,

I'm confused....not a challenge, mind you. The stock Cub heat system has ONE heat hose, ducted through the firewall. Stock cubs have no defrost, and the heat terminates at the aft side of the firewall. So, it sounds like you're describing something quite modified from stock.

In any case, as I pointed out, there is a lot can be done to tighten up the stock heat system, but the Atlee back seat heat system doesn't weigh very much, and it effectively doubles the stock heat system, by taking what would normally only be used for carb heat (when carb heat is in use, the back seat must be turned off).

I once flew a Cub with a stock heat system for a week doing moose surveys north of Galena. Temps were - 30 and colder (much colder on the flight home) all week, and that airplane was so cold I couldn't believe it. We duct taped ourselves in the thing to block drafts, but still cold. Some time later, the mechanics did a few mods to that plane, tightening up the heat system, and added the Atlee back seat heat system....toasty at very cold temps.

the big advantage of the rear seat heat system is with along hose, you can put that heat anywhere you want it...side windows, windshield, or pax.

MTV
 
MTV maybe I mis-described--I have heat that comes down at my feet-heat that goes up to the defroster and a hole in the firewall that is supposed to be used for rear seat--I use that for my feet/cabin area--I use the heat box at my feet to attach the long scat to and route that to the person in back---

-i believe what I have is the pretty much the standard--heat for my feet, heat for my windscreen and another hole in the top right of firewall for rear seat

except I do something different with the rear seat heat and I would CHANGE the number of vents on the dash for the defroster from two to one

sorry for confusing sentence structure--hung over from the ugly sweater party past night
 
schnell49 said:
MTV maybe I mis-described--I have heat that comes down at my feet-heat that goes up to the defroster and a hole in the firewall that is supposed to be used for rear seat--I use that for my feet/cabin area--I use the heat box at my feet to attach the long scat to and route that to the person in back---

-i believe what I have is the pretty much the standard--heat for my feet, heat for my windscreen and another hole in the top right of firewall for rear seat

except I do something different with the rear seat heat and I would CHANGE the number of vents on the dash for the defroster from two to one

sorry for confusing sentence structure--hung over from the ugly sweater party past night
Click to expand...


You could prove it with photos...

of the party I mean.

B.S. i've seen back seaters stuff the hose in their carharts.
 
Ruffair said:
B.S. i've seen back seaters stuff the hose in their carharts.
Click to expand...

Don't do that with the Sutton exhaust wit the extra heat option. My wife got her leg burned, it discolored the floorboard, and melted the under-seat storage. I now have a little difruser.

Also, if you are having heat trouble, check to make sure your mechanic did not switch the heat output and the carb heat output. My heat did not work for a year once...

sj
 
I guess I wasn't very clear either, but age, not a party in my case.....

The STOCK Super Cub had Nothing aft of the firewall for a heat system....no box, no windshield heat, no hoses, nada.

So, depending on what mods have been made to the heat system, improvements will vary. suffice to say that the purely stock heat system definitely is not an "arctic heat" outfit. And, as Schnell says, with that system, all the heat in that system dumps out between you feet in front. The rest of you freezes.

I have trouble believing the Atlee back seat heat system weighs more than a couple pounds, depending how long a hose you put on it. I put this system in my Cessna 170, and it basically doubled the amount of heat available....in that case, we put the outlet for that system on the right side of the firewall.

MTV
 
My cub has the back seat heat run to the dash and stock system running with scat hose to the back seat. The scat hose to the back seat is so hot I can't hold it. I have been at - 30 with no problems and if it is above 0 the back seater is too hot with it open all the way. I ware big boots in the cold so my feet are warm anyway.
DENNY
 
The Stock cubs have an airbox on the forward firewall. The Dodge defroster kit puts a airbox aft of the firewall, (directs cabin heat to defrost) The rear seat heat takes heat off the muffler tailpipe which is also where carb heat comes from.
 
I had to have a defroster in mine. You get in a cold cub after skiing, snowshoeing, getting un-buried on skiis and you are instantly fogged up from the inside. Too cold up here not to have a defroster setup.
 
I had the same problem in my last cub. Plenty of flow but the air was like warm at best. The type of muffler can make all the difference in the world. You may need to stage it. Intake on aft baffle will capture some warmth from engine= stage 1. Muff 1= stage 2 and a second muff for stage 3. Or purchase a whole different exhaust, but that is pretty expensive.

Bill
 
Bugs66 said:
Wow, that looks effective Glenn! Good idea!
Click to expand...

Stock Pa11 exhaust. Works so good that when I first hooked it up I had one hose under the center of the panel dumping on the grip on the stick, I had to move it because it was so hot it hurt my hand ( 10F outside ) Bottom Y fitting has a damper valve I made that I can open with my foot if my feet get cold or someone is in the back.

Glenn
 
Spell check on a cell phone. Was supposed to say luke as tepid as in friggen COLD.

LOL.

Bill
 
Many, but not all Cubs have a "pre-heat" shroud around the front exhaust crossover pipe. Inlet air goes through his shoud, hen flows into the main heat shroud. I've flown a couple hat didn't have that shroud, and they were cold....

MTV
 
Glenn you takin' credit for someone else's work? That looks too neat to be yours. Got a part number on the that scat three-way?
 
cruiser said:
Glenn you takin' credit for someone else's work? That looks too neat to be yours. Got a part number on the that scat three-way?
Click to expand...

I picked that up at the aeromart at Kosh about 5 years ago, finally found a use for it.

Wagaero page 54 bottom left for the flange and the Y to split the hose http://onlinecatalog.wagaero.com/WebProject.asp?CodeId=7.7.4.1&BookCode=aro13flx

Or Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=2+"+diameter+90*+tube&x=13&y=19

Glenn
 
My PA-12 has a Crosswinds 180hp conversion that uses Cherokee-style dual mufflers. There are two heat boxes into the cabin. It puts out so much heat, I fly in short sleeves & window open, even in winter. I call it the "sauna Cub" ;-)
 
I used to have great heat when I ran the stock exhaust. I put the leading edge system on because I had too much money in my wallet and needed a tighter more cramped work space in the engine compartment. Now that I'm out of money and my wife has to time my mags I don't get near the heat from the LES that I got from the stock muffler. It's ok heat but not very warm below -10 or so. Not sure if others have had the same observation.

Jerry
 
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