Jim Miller
Registered User
Normandy TN
I am ready to built the front cowl for my cub project. It will be a open J3 style. I plan to use 2024-t3 .032 for the eyebrows and either .025 or .032 for the rest. Which would work best .025 or .032?
Metal for J3 style cowl
- Thread starter Jim Miller
- Start date
cubunltd
Registered User
Belle Vernon,PA
2024-T3 will crack under vibration especialy on the eyebrows. It is also harder to work and shape. I use 3003H14 .032" for both the eyebrows and rest of cowling. The original eyebrows had a wire embedded at the leading edge. So did the cowl at the side openings. The H14 forms over the wire easily.
John
John
tophand
Registered User
Northwest South Dakota
bob turner
Registered User
I did mine in 1965, using the only thing I could afford - surplus 7075-O. I read everything about lead shot and wooden hammers, then wound up with a concrete form for the noses and a steel hammer with polished head. Rolled edges were done with clamped- on plywood forms and a wooden hammer. .032 for the cowl and .040 for the eyebrows. That was 3500 hours ago, and so far so good.
you cannot see the rolled edges, but they are all there, and look as good as the original. I left out the wire. I do not look as good as the original me, though.
you cannot see the rolled edges, but they are all there, and look as good as the original. I left out the wire. I do not look as good as the original me, though.
JohnCFord
Registered User
I'm kind of surprised that the eyebrows are only .032 thick, rolled edges and all. Good to know though, I thought they would be around .060.
~J~
Dan Gervae
FRIEND
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Wow....beautiful....mine have no rolled edges.
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cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
Rob the eye brow guy adds a 3rd attach point and no wire but rolls a bead into the top edge. Metal prop beats the crap outa eyebrows.
Glenn
Glenn
behindpropellers
Registered User
NE Ohio
Rob the eye brow guy adds a 3rd attach point and no wire but rolls a bead into the top edge. Metal prop beats the crap outa eyebrows.
Glenn
He also takes your money and does not make the parts.
bob turner
Registered User
They are not hard to make. The back half almost never goes bad. Rather than going the non- original look above, I just use steel ears and five rivets for the cylinder screws. Drill them out and replace about once every couple thousand hours.
My originals were.040. The back ends are original Piper with over six thousand hours.
My originals were.040. The back ends are original Piper with over six thousand hours.
cubdriver2
FRIEND
upstate NY
He must not like you. He took our money and disapeared, but a year and a half later he made and shipped our eyebrows.
Glenn
Jim Miller
Registered User
Normandy TN
Thanks all for the advice. I was also thinking 2024 T3 might not be the best choice when I made the post. My cowling will be only an approximation of a J3 cowl as I will be using a 0235 C1 engine and a 4 inch prop extension to allow for starter ringgear and flywheel. The posted photo's will be very helpful. I have a fiberglass nose piece as a starting point. Jim
Jim Miller
Registered User
Normandy TN
Larry I could send you some pictures in near future or post here. I have a question for Bob Turner and others concerning 3003-H14 and 7075-0. I need to order soon and was wondering the advantages of one over the other. Bob's 45 years of use is impressive with the 7075 and the cost is about the same. My major concerns is workability and resistance to dents. For some reason my computer doesn't let me do a enter to get to another line on this site recently. I have to type all the way to the end and get the automatic line change. Thanks Jim Miller
