Solder for primer injector
- Thread starter JayH
- Start date
JayH
Registered User
NE Iowa
Well, silver solder did not go so well. Friggin destroyed the end. Solder didn't flow too well and once set.....IT'S HARD. I'll figure something out I guess.
On another note, in the experimental world, has anyone ever used flexable primer lines to the engine? In my quest to get these done, I figure that has to be an easier way to get the lines to the engine from the firewall through all the obstacles. Just brain storming here.
Ideas?
Thanks,
J
On another note, in the experimental world, has anyone ever used flexable primer lines to the engine? In my quest to get these done, I figure that has to be an easier way to get the lines to the engine from the firewall through all the obstacles. Just brain storming here.
Ideas?
Thanks,
J
Grant
FRIEND
At Work.....
I wish I'd seen this earlier. Silver Solder is a pretty high heat deal if your trying to work with copper. I don't know what the manufacturers use but I don't think its silver. I could be wrong.
http://www.copper.org/applications/fuelgas/fuelgas_faq_all.html
Any fuel gas lines installed using copper tube must be brazed using a filler metal containing less than 0.05% P (phosphorus) and a melting temperature greater than 1000 degrees F. The only filler metal (trade and industry standard) that contains less than the 0.05% P would be an AWS BAg type alloy (according to the American Welding Society’s AWS A5.8 specification). In no case should solder or “soft-solder” be used to join copper tube and fittings in fuel gas systems.
http://www.copper.org/applications/fuelgas/fuelgas_faq_all.html
Any fuel gas lines installed using copper tube must be brazed using a filler metal containing less than 0.05% P (phosphorus) and a melting temperature greater than 1000 degrees F. The only filler metal (trade and industry standard) that contains less than the 0.05% P would be an AWS BAg type alloy (according to the American Welding Society’s AWS A5.8 specification). In no case should solder or “soft-solder” be used to join copper tube and fittings in fuel gas systems.
Darrel Starr
Registered User
Plymouth, MN
There are purpose built primer injector fittings available. I used pt # 468-341 Jet-Primer about $15 each from Aircraft Specialties about 6 yrs ago.
Darrel
Darrel
Gordon Misch
MEMBER
Toledo, Wa (KTDO)
I think I've seen 'em in the AC Spruce catalog too.
JayH
Registered User
NE Iowa
That's what I bought was the primer fitting kit from Spruce. With that kit, you have to solder that union cone onto your prrimer line. Found out that is a pain in the a$$.
Grant, I agree, I don't think I'm going to try that deal again. Maybe the compression fitting option. Was also researching the AN fitting option, hence the flexible 1/8" line question, which would make running those lines a breeze.
Darrel, with those fittings from Specialties, how do you connect the primer line. I guess I'm a little unclear on how those will hook up being already built. Maybe I'm confused.
Thanks for the inputs,
J
Grant, I agree, I don't think I'm going to try that deal again. Maybe the compression fitting option. Was also researching the AN fitting option, hence the flexible 1/8" line question, which would make running those lines a breeze.
Darrel, with those fittings from Specialties, how do you connect the primer line. I guess I'm a little unclear on how those will hook up being already built. Maybe I'm confused.
Thanks for the inputs,
J
Darrel Starr
Registered User
Plymouth, MN
The fitting I mentioned above uses compression fittings -- no soldering.
Darrel
Darrel
Bugs66
Registered User
Spokane WA
I think you have to learn the sweet spot of being too hot and not hot enough. Really baby the flame around being careful not to burn it. When right temp the flux should flow clear followed by the the solder. Then you pretty much remove the flame immediately. It took some trial and error for me, and I also used SS line, so might be a different process.
Fortysix12
Registered User
RanchAero Grand Vista, Brooksville
Piper primer originals are all compression farrels. Didn't even consider soldering up primer lines. The entire assy. can be bought at most Ace hardwares. Wicks sells all the components including the primers injectors for around 7 bucks,nuts, line and farrels. . If you want to go high end contact Aerosport, they offer an awesome Stainless kit which includes the transition t fitting for the primer feed line. Talk to Bart.
solder the thing. use some emery cloth and clean the copper line real well, dont touch it with your fingers. Then dip the whole end of the copper line in some vaseline looking flux then slide the nozzle on. then set it at a nice angle and warm up the nozzle a little with the torch dont melt it. Make sure you genius a way to hold the nozzle all the way on. then drip a drop of solder right where copper ends that you can see and the nozzle starts. putting a little flame at this spot just bring the solder to it to get the drop. dont forget to put the nut on before you do this.
NimpoCub
Registered User
Nimpo Lake, BC . . . AKA "the Floatplane Capital o
Soldering? Heck, I don't think I would have thought to buy several "spare parts" but sounds like it would have been necessary!
I lucked out, Bart sent me SS lines with all the "ends" already fabb'd. That ol' boy knew just the right lengths & they came individually packaged, just needed to form 'em & install. Once again, I'm thankful for all my adult supervision!
I lucked out, Bart sent me SS lines with all the "ends" already fabb'd. That ol' boy knew just the right lengths & they came individually packaged, just needed to form 'em & install. Once again, I'm thankful for all my adult supervision!
JayH
Registered User
NE Iowa
Ok, I got the 468-341 primer fittings coming. That is actually a Piper part # I believe. These are the fittings that have the extension tube with the ejector ports(holes) out to the sides of the tube. And they are the simple compression fitting for the 1/8 copper line. One of the things I considered in going this route is, after my soldering fiascal, I thought about field repairs. If you crack or break a line, a simple ferrel from the parts store and you're back in business. All the other parts and soldering with the other model, you may be screwed, other than crimping the line to get home. But still a simple fix with the ferrels. Just some more info on my endeavor.
J
J
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