• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

First attempts at tig welding

Larry G

Registered User
Minocqua WI
This is one of the first joints I did. Miller Diversion 180 with 4130 tube 3/4 x .035 It seem to hold together good. I would like to now what you think is it ok or do I need to change anything.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1491.jpg
    IMG_1491.jpg
    502.5 KB · Views: 235
  • IMG_1492.jpg
    IMG_1492.jpg
    544 KB · Views: 213
What does the inside of the tubing look like at the weld? Any burn through or distortion?
 
Left side of first picture looks great, right side touch cold, and work on not leaving crater at end by backing off slow...

Try cleaning you tubes first with sand paper then wipe with acetone or such.....

But that is a perfectly good weld that won't let you down..

Excellent for a first try!
 
The pictures of Larry's destructive test brings up a question I've had for a long time; how does Joe Schmoe working in his home shop/garage test his welds? I asked an old timer 40 years ago how to know if your welds were good and he answered "Clamp 'er down in a vise and beat the live'n tar outa 'er and if it don't break, she's good to go."

I guess I understand the basic principal in that illustration; You join one tube to another tube (with a weld) and if you can hold one tube and then exert enough energy to the other tube to distort both tubes without compromising the join (the weld) then the weld is stronger than the tubes which is what you want. But is there an even more clever way to perform your backyard test than just beat'n the smithereens (spl.) out of it?

Mike you usually have clever alternative ways of skin'n a cat?
 
D.A.
Destructive testing; so much fun. Before I started welding my fuselage, another build who I trust completely (he offered to test fly my plane when I am finished) came over to check on my "coupons"; practice welds. He did the sledge hammer thing and he also cut across the welds and polished them and looked at the cross section under bright light. I had tagged each weld with specifics such as tip size, pressures, rod size, etc. He pointed out what welds were "A+" and ones that would work just fine and some re-do's. His efforts gave me a lot of confidence and helped me to repeat the good welds and avoid the bad ones. Worked great.
Marty57
 
I will try to cut it apart and post the results later. I did not clean like you are saying Mike I will next time. Looking through the tube you can see some penetration going on. I have people coming over now for the game.
 
...repeat the good welds and avoid the bad ones....

Thanks for chiming in here Marty. If you don't mind, could you expand on "The bad ones" please. What made them bad? What do you do differently so that those specific issues aren't repeated? Thanks for sharing, otherwise I'm sure I'd go right down the same path. Thanks to Jason Gerard, I too have begun a dialog with a respected welder here in the Seattle area and I plan to do the exact same thing with him as you did with the guy you trust.

Speaking of welding, check out the latest update: http://davidadamflyingcircus.com/137.html

Thanks in advance.
 
D.A.
The few bad welds I had starting out I was able to look at and cast off with out subjecting to much of a test. The "bad ones" were cold welds; not enough heat. On those the rod was built up as filler but I didn't get the parent metal hot so it just built up on the surface. On the other side of the spectrum, burning through 4130 is pretty easy but at least you know you have the heat range where it should be. Something to keep in mind when scratch building vs repairing existing is that scratch builders will do hundreds of tack welds before any final welds. So, when you are at the "good" stage start welding. A scratch builder will get a lot more practice before any final welding is done. Like anything, more practice and you will get pretty darn good.
Marty57
 
One more thing; I still have all the cut up and tested practice welds with info and dates written on them. If the FAA designated inspector wants to know about my welding I can get out the "coupons" and show them what I did before any welding on the fuselage.
Marty57
 
D.A. Some one probably told me that the airworthiness inspection might include a look at the welding; can't remember for sure. In any case, I kept my welding samples for some reason. Bugs recently had his exp. inspected; he could better answer the question. I bet it is up to the individual inspector.
Marty57
 
IMG_1495.jpgThis is what the inside looks like.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1495.jpg
    IMG_1495.jpg
    523.3 KB · Views: 123
From what I can tell from your photo the area on right looks pretty good. As others have said good welds are mid way between being too cold (not enough penetration) and too hot (burn through and distortion). Practicing on scrap the only way to find out. And for pieces of small diameter tubing I sometimes run a rat tail file inside the tubing. It will show any high points (distortion) and make inspection with a flashlight easier. Cutting the tubing apart, as you have done, an even better way to see what's going on. And besides the appearance of the weld bead try to match the color of your good welds.
 
I doubt anyone will look at your welds. Inspection is largely paperwork and looking for any obvious problems. I think you are doing the right thing by practicing and doing some desctruction tests. Weld failures are extremely rare in homebuilts.
 
Back
Top