?? Covers for floor hardware ??
- Thread starter cgoldy
- Start date
Fortysix12
Registered User
RanchAero Grand Vista, Brooksville
I fabricated mine. Both for the aileron pulleys and the front rudder pulley. Within the last month I fabricated a composit FOD escutcheon for the rear stick by first using cardboard and masking tape creating a removable conforming cover than covered the model in epoxy and glass. Then contact cement and left over leather. I made it in two halves. I'm now working on the below the rear seat. You can purchase them from Univair but they won't necessarily fit. Go to Christain Sturms Web site for the drawing on the covers and start from there. Who's top wing pulley covers did you use, I went with Wag Aero's. they very inexpensive.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Do you have a Super Cub parts manual?
Ruidoso Ron
Registered User
Alto, NM
The new Top Cub has some very nicely made covers. Don't know if Cub Crafters will sell them, or for what price. I know they have their seats made locally by a sub.
S
StewartB
Create your own!
I had a couple of awkward pulleys that needed covers so I made my own from Kydex. It was fun and easy and I got precisely what I wanted. They look pretty darn good. Look at Mike MCS Repairs' thread about forming Kydex for helpful info and pictures of what's possible. He's demonstrating fabrication techniques that are really impressive. http://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...rming-Interior-Panels&highlight=forming+kydex
For the gap in the floor at the rear stick Mike used brush seal from a door or garage door. I posted a link on the other current thread about sealing up a Cub. Install one piece from either side with the bristles overlapping slightly. It seals the gap and allows the controls to operate freely.
http://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?39348-sealing-up-Super-Cub-for-winter
SB
I had a couple of awkward pulleys that needed covers so I made my own from Kydex. It was fun and easy and I got precisely what I wanted. They look pretty darn good. Look at Mike MCS Repairs' thread about forming Kydex for helpful info and pictures of what's possible. He's demonstrating fabrication techniques that are really impressive. http://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...rming-Interior-Panels&highlight=forming+kydex
For the gap in the floor at the rear stick Mike used brush seal from a door or garage door. I posted a link on the other current thread about sealing up a Cub. Install one piece from either side with the bristles overlapping slightly. It seals the gap and allows the controls to operate freely.
http://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?39348-sealing-up-Super-Cub-for-winter
SB
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
easiest is kydex... form it by hand into shapes you never could do in aluminum or steel by hand this quickly....
done, no painting.. no fuss.... if it get scratched it same color all the way through....
done, no painting.. no fuss.... if it get scratched it same color all the way through....
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
one of the other guys on here from down there delt with this a month or so ago, maybe he will chime in with what he found... he ordered a free sample kit from http://kydex.com
S
StewartB
I don't know much about Australia but I found this easy enough. These guys are authorized factory-direct distributors and have offices in several big cities in Australia. Look at the contacts link. Good luck. Kydex is fun to work with.
http://www.mulfordinternational.com/ProductIndex/Kydex Sheet.htm
Stewart
Mi. ( Yooper)
pittsdriver
MEMBER
Bugs66
Registered User
Spokane WA
I have patterns for the stock covers on my site. they are squared off instead of rounded but work great.
http://www.supercubproject.com/links.aspx
http://www.supercubproject.com/links.aspx
Darrel Starr
Registered User
Plymouth, MN
I made my pulley covers out of fairly thin mild steel then had them powder coated. I wanted them to take up a little less space than the originals. I first experimented with folding poster board then found the shape I wanted. I cut the flat pattern and bent the two flanges with plenty of access metal first. Then I bent the middle over a fairly large tube, 1 to 11/4 in. diameter. Then I carefully hammered and rounded the end around to finish the part. Last step was to trim the flanges.
Darrel
Darrel
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Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Darrel, Will you quit posting pictures of your beater. Makes the rest of us look bad. 
Nice installation, I like it.
Nice installation, I like it.
Darrel Starr
Registered User
Plymouth, MN
8) Thanks Steve but I must say, I've seen your stuff -- and your advice, always the best!
Darrel
Darrel
