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Excessive Yaw, AKA Skidding. Remedies

Fortysix12

Registered User
RanchAero Grand Vista, Brooksville
I've seem to have a little more counter yaw than I had hoped for and at cruise the plane requires left rudder trim. I rigged up a spring and rope kind rudder trim, talked with Clyde Smith Jr. but I'd like to know if anyone as actually installed a rudder trim and if so what type. The spring worked very well, thinking a verier mixture control but a lever I could just knock back to neutral would also work. She's a half to 3/4 ball out. Any ideas. I haven't tried to take some of it out with by bending the vertical, uncharted waters for me and don't want to do something that might need to repair.
 
Fortysix12 said:
..... I haven't tried to take some of it out with by bending the vertical, uncharted waters for me and don't want to do something that might need to repair.


That's how you fix it...

Also loosing right top tail wire and equally tighten left top to move rear of fin left a bit also.... Make sure you have enough threads in wire still...

Should fix you right up....

You may need to redo some of the wing stuff, because you should have fixed this first, then had gotten the wings level part rigged......
 
Surprised, it's usually right rudder that is required. If you don't want to bend the vertical stab put a trim tab on the rudder.
 
Are your wings rigged to fly hands off? Start there and then address the rudder. A good starting point is to aim the vertical stabilizer 1 1/2" to the left of the center of the windshield strip.
 
Steve Pierce said:
Are your wings rigged to fly hands off? Start there and then address the rudder.

We used to do the wings first, but took many more flights, now it's very quick.... I had learned it takes many less tries if you get the ball part right first then address the wings... (Or I guess I should say it this way, I don't care what it takes to make wings level, unless ball is centered). To make it have a good personality in stall/landing without falling off..... Also don't nessisarilly believe the ball, it may need to be rotated if it drops a wing when centered at landing...
 
I'm still in Phase I of the experitmental flight testing. the airplane does not fly hands off. It turns right as expected. I rigged a spring and rope rudder trim and once the ball is centered it is almost hands off. Not to say I dont' have a wing with a little two much wash. Im still trying to understand all the dynamics. I should note that my stick ends up slightly left of center with wings level. I'm going to level the plane and recalibrate the ball on the DYNON. Perhaps adding another inclinometer is in order. I'll get it.
 
Fortysix12 said:
I..... Perhaps adding another inclinometer is in order. I'll get it.

This is a half hour to one hour job.... IF you do it in order, logically, don't make it into DAYs of work....

Reposted from other threads
This is the order I rig... (hope i haven't forgot anything..easier for me to do than to type up)

This way it's quick and keeps the chasing things to one or two adjustments usually, and you are Done...(unless its really bent, but this will average that out also...)

Basically do what the books says, with a few extra checks/averages....

FIRST! make sure.. or at least an attempt at the bottoms of flaps and ailerons being level with bottom of wing using a strait edge...... don't care if the ends don't line up on side of fuselage or tip, we only care how it will fly.( they will line up if the tip and fuselage gingerbread are in right place)

Set fin so if you were to look forward at where top of it points, it would end about 1 inch to left wing side of center skylight Chanel at front spar.

Do the string and get the dihedral height right...

Set up plane to approx level flight for now..

**Then use level on fuselage side to side..find happy medium, across: spar attach points, gear fittings, engine mount studs.. sometimes you need to look behind gear area to find a untweaked area.... just find what you will now on call level, it may have to be an average... and adjust plane to it..

**This is now where you note how much T&B bubble is off... write this down... half bubble to the left or whatever... you could set plane down and adjust this now, but I wait till I have the plane down for another step.....

Now use the level at about strut attach area on leading edge bottom..... set plane down, turn one front strut in same amount as you turn other front strut out to make level read same amount off level on each wing..

**Now to set plane up in level flight, I use 1 degree trailing edge down at root rib(which I got off a virgin piper fuselage), check both root ribs, and split the difference. there are other thoughts on where level is..... but this has always worked great....my $0.02....... note. Univair rear PA-18 spars have wing attach holes about an eighth inch to high or low...cant remember which...

Check twist with the 3/8" block and adjust with rear struts as needed...
.....
As for what to fix/chase FIRST after test flights, we know the ball is telling the truth now, so adjust fin to make it right( use top wire to move tail post some, bend fin some also)
only concern yourself with which wing is heavy when ball is centered... (by foot pressure or rigged right), for rigging we don't care what it does when the ball is not centered....

**Sometimes its nice..or scary to measure from rear strut attach bolt ends on wing to the tail spring mount bolt to see how crooked wings are on plane, bent, or trammed wrong, if you are still having trouble..... have seen 5" & 6" difference side to side on a few flying planes.... but it does make the rigging rules kinda moot making one of these behave... a little over 1" is about normal... have only seen 1 plane in almost 20 years with no difference....
 
I rig both of the outboard aileron ribs with a digital level where they are the same and I might have to tweak half a turn for wings level. Then adjust the vertical stab to make the ball center in flight after and checking that the ball is centered on the ground and aircraft level.
 
Also check the horizontal Stab and elevators to make sure they are square to the fin and have no twist.

Was going nuts trying to rig out a friends ultralight one time. Same problem in flight as you describe. Was not till we had the plane leveled in the hangar and came back from lunch did I see the problem.

As I walked in from behind the plane I saw that there was both a twist in the elevators, and one side of the stablizer was lower than the other. fixing that got the plane flying straight.
 
How do you physically bend the top portion of the vertical stab without wrinkling the fabric after the plane is already flying? I'd like to get rid of my rudder trim tab. My IA has offered to do this but I'm very hesitant.
 
Put the palm of your hand at the upper front corner of the vertical stabilizer and push the opposite direction of which rudder you are having to hold. Watch the fabric to see if you are going to far.
 
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