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Headliner curved window flange thingy

Iflylower

Registered User
Memphis, TN
I'm building the interior on my cub. How do you make or buy the curved flange for the rear windows into the headliner?? My first attempt doesn't look or curve to well.

Ideas welcome
 
Iflylower said:
I'm building the interior on my cub. How do you make or buy the curved flange for the rear windows into the headliner?? My first attempt doesn't look or curve to well.

Ideas welcome

You mean the rear "D" window frame whatzamathbackitz? Or the headliner oongledanfundez? :D
 
Take a piece of 016 aluminum and bend a short flange on one edge. Cut the width of the face to fit the depth of the D window. Cut darts in the flange/return to facilitate bending. Once you have the shape and proper fit you rivet the window liner to the side panels and hope the powder coat hides the imperfections. In my case I needed more dart cuts with closer spacing. In the attached pic you can see the bends. I remember that day well. At that moment what you see was good enough. It still is as far as I'm concerned.

April_23_06_015.jpg


SB
 
Consider putting stress relief holes at the notch on both sides of your bend points. Atlee does.

Jerry
 
I used soft alum. I made a plywood mold the shape I needed and bent two 1/4" flanges around the shaped plywood. I still see the trial and error pieces laying around after probably four years. But the outcome is very smooth and no relief holes to be seen. One of the flanges goes into the D-window along with the lexan. The other gets riveted to the liner.
Ron
 
I like the idea of bucking them to a form... I might try that next.

a few days ago, I built both sides out of aluminum and notched them every inch. When I bent them to fit the windows, they slightly bent or crinkled on the notches. I tried it with kydex today and they look better, and no rips or crinkles. May stay there and may try something else when I'm done with the interior.

I had a bunch of aluminum that I built the extended baggage with and up to the back seat. I also ordered some Kydex to try that in the front. Jury's out on it so far. But, I formed the d channel with Kydex and it turned out better than the aluminum one's that I notched.

My first impression of kydex is very easy to work with. Inexpensive compared to the aluminum (little less than half price.) Cuts easy. Looks good with a little texture. But, is a little nonrigid where you have few attach points. It looks like it could vibrate a bit. I'll continue and make forms. If I don't like it, I can always make them from aluminum.

Will update. Thanks for the input.
 
Measure the total length and cut a your metal accordingly. You may trim it for proper length at the end. Measure the depth of your D window. Drill holes one inch on center along the side at the depth dimension. Do this on each side of the strip. Then cut from the perimeter of the strip a straight line using a dremel with the cutting disk to the drilled wholes.This will allow the part to bend after you have bent the piece into a U. Then brake the metal down the center of the holes on each side. Your drilled holes should be half exposed after the bend. you will have a very flexible part that will fit into your window and bend around the D channel. One bend goes into the window and the other give you the face to rivet to. Does that help.
DSC01870.JPG
 
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