Jackscrew Yoke

I forget dosen`t the straight side of the yoke go on the top and the angled side go down toward on the bottom toward the pulley. Thanks Skip

It does on an 18.

This photo shows the initial trim set-up of my PA-12 with the yoke flat side up.



Stewart

I was under the impression that it depended on where the trim handle was located. Overhead trim aircraft ( L series, short wing etc) have the V pointed up and side trim models have the V pointed down. Correct me if I am wrong.

Bill

Bill is correct. If the trim handle is overhead the yoke points up, if the trim handle is on the sidewall the yoke points down. The Short wing aircraft have the screw in upside down from the Cub series. The Short wings can remove the screw and yoke without cutting a hole in the fabric unlike the Cub series. When you install your vertical stabilizer and the fairing that transitions from the center stringer to the vertical fin make sure the hole in that fairing allows the screw to come up through it so if you ever have to replace it after the airplane is covered you can without having to grind a new hole in it. Had to do that a couple of times. Takes more time and and a little uglier.

Stewart
I see your PA12 has steel tubing for the turtle deck fairing. Is that 3/8 center and 1/2 on the sides? I was planning on doing my PA18 project like that-is the PA-12 originally that way or is the Alum the standard way it is done?

Thanks
Jim Miller

Jim Miller said:

Stewart
I see your PA12 has steel tubing for the turtle deck fairing. Is that 3/8 center and 1/2 on the sides? I was planning on doing my PA18 project like that-is the PA-12 originally that way or is the Alum the standard way it is done?

Thanks
Jim Miller

Click to expand...

It's part of Crosswinds STOL PA-12 gross weight increase kit. It takes the gross weight of a PA-12 from 1750 to 1935lbs.

Don't do it on your PA-18. It also adds weight.

Crash

Steve Pierce said:

When you install your vertical stabilizer and the fairing that transitions from the center stringer to the vertical fin make sure the hole in that fairing allows the screw to come up through it so if you ever have to replace it after the airplane is covered you can without having to grind a new hole in it. Had to do that a couple of times. Takes more time and and a little uglier.

Click to expand...

I cover the hole on the fairing with .016 aluminum riveted in place. I do this so there isn't a dip in the fabric where the jack screw removal hole is. If you ever need to remove the jack screw just take a step drill and drill it out.

Crash

That area always bugged me. Don't ask me how I know, but you could leave that aluminum spoon out of there entirely and have a very graceful fabric fillet if the covering method includes a blanket rather than a sewn envelope.

The other area back there are those two pesky rib stitches. CC leaves them off - next time I will put them in there conventionally, and when they break I will have two dollar patches in their original location, but nothing inside to ruin my finish except some polyester string.

I yanked my yoke and screw today. Needless to say, the pulley fell before I got a look at the cable routing. I thought I'd be searching for days for a picture like StewartB posted. THANKS STEWARTB!!!

Joe