Replacing Cleveland Brake Pads

Tip: When replacing brake pads on Cleveland disk brakes with a driver style replacement tool, always use the knock out pin to drive the rivets out of the mounting plates. Never try to drill the heads off the rivets. It is very easy to go off to one side of the rivet and ob-long the holes. When you set the new rivets, hit the rivet set pin until you get a bounce back on the hammer, then stop pounding, the rivet is set. Crash

cleveland brake pads

cash it only takes about a box and a half of brake pads to learn no to hit it to hard at 6 or 7 bucks each its not a very expensive education

cleveland brake pads

crash it only takes about a box and a half of brake pads to learn no to hit it to hard at 6 or 7 bucks each its not a very expensive education

Just make sure you do not put the rivets in backwards....i don't know who would do a thing like that.
Tim

I used to use the knock out tool but switched to the screw in. Works better taking out and installing rivets for me.

Crash brought up using a squirt bottle to bleed his brakes in a previous post on brake boosters. Made me think of my simple pressure bleeding method so thought I would pass it on. I use a common garden sprayer with a shut off valve and a female air hose fitting on the end. I have a clear piece of hose on a male air hose fitting which I safety wire to the brake bleeder fitting after I crack it open. Pour the 5606 hydraulic fluid in the pressure sprayer and pump up. Connect the two air hose fittings together and now your pressure pot is connected to the brake caliper. I used an old AN fitting that fits the filler plug on the Scott brake cylinder with a hose on it and run it into a jar. Turn the valve on the pressure pot and the fluid will run up and fill the brake cylinder and then run into the jar. When the clear hose doesn't have any bubbles turn the valve off and tighten the brake bleeder fitting. Put the plug in the brake cylinder and pump the brake pedal a few times, remove the plug and top off the fluid. Sometimes you have to pump the pedal and pump more than once but normally once works for me. You should now have a nice firm brake.

I have linked pictures below.


http://www.supercub.org/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Steve-Pierce-Photos&id=aaf

http://www.supercub.org/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Steve-Pierce-Photos&id=aag

http://www.supercub.org/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Steve-Pierce-Photos&id=aak

http://www.supercub.org/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Steve-Pierce-Photos&id=aal

Idea

Steve, that is a great idea. A guy could do it alone. I pondered the thought about being able to over flow the masters into a jar so you could see the bubbles stop and you knew you had all the air out of the system. The garden sprayer with a "Y" fitting to get both masters at the same time, that sounds good. After the bubbles stop, I think you could cap the masters then add some back pressure with the sprayer another pump then close the bleeder valves. On the booster brakes you want to take the slack out of the system by "back pressuring" the pistons in the calipers so they are not dragging but "right up there". Crash

You can push the brake pedal after bleeding and pull the parking brake valve. Then remove the fill plug and top it off. Sometimes this procedure has had too much pressure when I have done it. I don't push the pedal very hard.

Wow! I had no idea bleeding brakes could be so complicated. I have brakes that are almost identical to 30-19 Clevelands; the bleeder screws are on top of the main casting. As all air in a brake system gathers in the top of the cylinder/chamber, all I had to do was un-cap the master, then open the bleeder screw 'till all air was out. Didn't take much. Then, with a pump oil can and a length of model airplane fuel line, I attached to the bleeder and pumped carefully until master was again full. Then I capped the master, gave the oil can another pump, and my brakes were hard at 1/2" pedal travel. On reservoir-type master cylinders, like the Decathlon, it is even easier. Different oil can, since the Dec. takes 6606, but all I do is pump from the bottom. There is supposed to be an overflow, but I never pump it that full.

brakes

I also have had better luck with cleveland linnings than rapco. the rapco seem to be harder than cleveland and glaze easy also they don't stop as well

Brakes

Bob, most "Bush" Cubs have the pressure line going into the top of the caliper and the bleeder on the bottom so brush and rocks don't knock the brake lines off. Crash