View Full Version : A List of Supercub gotta-haves
Having just bought a tack-welded SC fuselage from Robert Spraker, I am about to begin an experimental Supercub project. I would like to hear from a few of you guys about your top 2 or 3 must-have mods. What I am looking for most of all is short field performance. I know in advance I will go with 150 hp. Thanks Joe
08-17-2003, 02:52 PM
Be sure to check all your dimensions. I bought a tack welding PA-18 fuselage from Mr. Spraker and I found a few areas that were not correct that I had to correct before finish welding. I have spoken to him about them and he was very receptive about making the corections to his jig. None were so major as to be hard to correct. You can see pictures of my project in the Photo Albums section of SuperCub.org under Northland cd experimental.
08-17-2003, 03:50 PM
The top three mods for short field are easy.
#1 Build it light.
#2 Keep it light.
#3 Fly it till jumping in it feels like putting on a old, worn out pair of underwear.
Nothing else required. But if you must add things to the basic light Cub for short field performance...
#1 Borer prop.
#2 Micro VG's.
#3 Tall main gear/low tail wheel.
08-17-2003, 05:22 PM
Get your priorities straight Boz..........you listed the prop, vgs, and tall gear which all have their place. There is a new-to-me addition that I just recently became aware of......and I'm sure you know of it also. Are you being selfish in not telling others? It was tried and tested at 8D1 and performed brilliantly. Although it was an addition on the C-185 I'm certain that it's application would be identical in a cub. Cheers........ :drinking:
How is a blender going to help short field operations??? :roll:
08-17-2003, 06:45 PM
If you are tearing your engine down, step it up to 160 HP.
And, unless you already have a stock exhaust, put a tuned exhaust on. It will get you 5+ hp and you will have more room on your firewall.
Weld fueling steps on your landing gear.
Shoulder harnesses..!! a must
Consider a slot in front of your ailerons (from Dakota Cub).. or the full wing. They will really make the wing perform slow.
Most important, if you want short-field performance, keep the aircraft LIGHT.... heavy Cubs are sick cubs.
08-18-2003, 01:13 AM
If short is your goal, contact Jerry Burr, or use the search on this site to read his opinions. He has data to back it up, too.
08-18-2003, 01:18 AM
A note on the 160 upgrade- If you are running around AK or anywhere that higher octane auto gas isn't readily available I would pass on the 160.. I like mine but I am not sure that I would do it again if I had the choice. The price difference between auto/avgas would have paid for a mess of shiny cub parts.
Also- the leading edge exhaust rocks. I have picked up about 100 rpm static and am really happy with the HD risers. Tere really isn't any more room on the firewall but there is way more room everywhere else. I was able to replace a starter wo pulling the exhaust.
The Bijou Boys
08-18-2003, 08:29 AM
I am considered building an experimental Super Cub but in the mean time I decided to do as many mods to mine stock 150 as possible. The first thing I did was to get the Borer prop. BIG improvement in performance here at 7000'. I decreased my takeoff roll by about 20%.
I would agree with Mark, the main thing is keep it light for short field performance. You can always add the goodies but you can't take much off the basic airframe once it's built.
One improvement I would make on the Piper trim system is to use the cable drum system that the Northstar uses. The cable winds up on a drum instead of going threw the pully wheel so it won't slip.
One more thing. I would put in an extended baggage system from the beginning. You won't need it for short field performance but when you go on that hunting, fishing or skiing trip you'll be glad for the extension.
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