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New Exper.Cub Stol Device Thread

Wayne Mackey

Registered User
Miles City Montana 406 232 1370
Hi folks,
I'm restarting this thread so I don,t have to wait 10 min. every time I bing it up on my
old comp. I have really injoyed the in put you have shown. I have learned some new
things and met some good peaple. Hope we can keep it going. Many thanks to Steve
and SuperCub.org. Wayne
 
smiles

Diggler,
I also have a post on the old thread for you. I do like to hear what you or anyone else has to say. I don't disrespect anyones thoughts or knowledge on aircraft. I don't
always agree with them and I don't expect everyone to agree with me. Thats why
I signed up with supercub.org. I like to here what is being done and why.
Again I a'm interested in thoughts Low and slow Wayne
 
I was also signed in as guest on the other thread. I too love low & slow. Wish I new more about all this stuff (and had more money to throw at it).
All the best,
JimC
 
Diggler,

From what I can see the only 'specification' that has been written is measured using the Factory determined degree of washout (2.5 degrees) measured at the aileron bay rib? with extended wings the total washout would be considerbly more for the (whole lifting surface) Also the addition of VG's makes the stall characteristics totally different as well?

(Wayne and Jerry) what is your experience on the subject??

Diggler, what have you done on the cubs you have worked on and flown??

Tim
 
Twist again.

Hi . The factory measured the twist at the farthest semi flat point on the outboard end of the span. (ie from one end of the wing to the other) It just happened to be the outboard aileron rib. If you have round tips it is the end of the wing. And you measure it there. If you have square tips you measure from the new end of the wing. If you have long ailerons it is also the aileron rib. If you don't have long ailerons, you should have. :D Jerry.
 
Jerry excellent point and I will check all long wing cubs that I see. I just drafted a letter to the MIDO in Renton to address this issue with the various STC holders. diggler
 
Rigging

I installed at least a doz. sets of the hot tips while working for the company that made
them, in fact I was biulding the kits. I was told to install them and rig them just as Jerry
has said. Low and slow Wayne
 
rigging

While we are on the rigging kick, I have seen a lot of cubs with the ailerons rigged at
a slight droop. I have been told it was to make up for the cable stretch when in flight.
what are your thoughts and what do the regs. say on this. When I played with this
we saw that the ailerons had more affect when a little positive and lost affect if
rigged negitive. Wayne
 
I was told by a former employer that you rig some droop in the ailerons to improve the visibility over the nose. They played with this on a Pawnee. The problem is that you run out of up travel if you get carried away. The above mentioned Pawnee they kept adjusting in the droop until the pilot came back quite pale and requested that everything be restored to origional. Seems he thought the visibility was great until he couldn't turn. :eek:
Lug
 
Droop

Lug,
The ailerons I have seen and flew a few of where only drooped about 1/2 to 3/4
of an inch. They flew good and didn't have any turning problems.
Wayne
 
If memory serves that is about right for "stock" on alot of different working aircraft (cubs, 188's, etc.) that need a little over the nose visibility. Just be careful if playing with this droop setting because you can run out of up aileron.
Lug
 
Stuff.

Having about as many mods as anyone, I think I can truthfully say that every mod should be flown with a large degree of common sense and prudence until it becomes natural. I have found quirks with mods as much as a year and a half after they had been fully tested and approved. To me ailerons are as much science (black magic) as propellers are. No two work the same. For instance with my ailerons at full droop (with full flaps) the (up) aileron, when in the full roll position is 1.5 inches below normal level position. The (down) aileron is then in the same position as the flap. It is a lot harder to fly than, say Waynes slat in the same configuration. The pawnee pilot no doubt got a large surprise. When you choose to play test pilot you take the whole job. The results are not always good. On the other side of the coin, just because the mod has a STC and your AI signed it off doesn?t mean that you are qualified to fly it. The same goes for large tires. :) Jerry.
 
flaps

A while back I said somewhere in here about a exper. cub going together with pa18
ailerons in there stock form being used as flaps. also used aileron falsespar. It is
flying and works well. The wings are 16 feet so it still has full size ailerons farther
out the wing. There is a cable pulling the flap down on the lower bracket and a
return spring on the upper. Had to make a new up stop system. Just an update.
Low and Slow Wayne
 
I'm rebuilding my wings on my PA-18 after my mishap on the Texas Cavecade. Elswhere on the site I saw someone is selling metal flaps and ailerons. Since I have to replace both I was wondering what you guys thought about switching to the all metal control surfaces (weight, performance, legality, etc.)
 
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