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alternater ?

c180

Registered User
lone grove okla
which alternater do you guys recomend for the o320 narrow deck ?
 
The INTERAV system is complete,STC'ed for many a/c types, and available. Aviall distributors usually have them in stock, or can have one for you the next day.

I've used this kit to install them on types other than those covered by the STC, and sought and was granted field approval.

If 50 amps is enough for you, this one will bolt right on. I've considered one of the tiny 25 Amp units with the regulator inside it for use on a light experimetnal a/c equipped with no more than a radio and nav lights, but haven't done it yet.

Hope this helps you.

Dave Calkins.
 
The alternators used on Piper Cherokees are Chryslers in 40 to 70 amp variants. The press-on pulley that is used to make them compatible with Lycomings costs about $27.
JimC
 
alternator

I have the Interav alternator in my PA18-150 with a narrow deck. Works great, although a bit of a pain to install. Had to do some work on the front baffle to clear the belt, also replaced all of the wires back to the battery as the gauge is too small for the 50 amp alternator. (as per AC43). 50 amps is way overkill for most cubs, mine included. It would be much easier if you could get a STC'd alternator installation the was around 30 amps. I just wanted to get rid of that old noisy generator.
 
alternator?

where is the best place to get this interav alternator and what does it cost and you guys say that it is stcd for the o320 narrow deck ?
 
Interav alternator

I got mine from Aircraft Spruce, 01/02 catalog shows $635 US. CC also sells the Interav.
 
Aviall, and they stock the kit.

If your local Aviall distrib. doesn't have it, he can have it the next day.

Dave.
 
Anybody have a DIRECT contact for Interav? Phone #, e-mail, or something?

(Edit) www.inter-av.com (Thanks DJ)

The Interav system does show up in the PA18-150 parts, so tecnically, it is PMA'ed.
 
Alternator

The Interav is too heavy. Go woth the B&C 40 amp front mount alternator with LR-3 electronic regulator with built in overvoltage. The Interav was the hot set up about 5 years ago but no one up here is using them on new rebuilds or conversions. Crash
 
I agree with Crash..........and B&C makes excellent products and supports them well.
 
Any additional information on the B&C alternator. The generator on my PA-12, O-320 A2B is on the way out and I was thinking of replacing it with an alternator. Is the B&C STC'd or does anybody have a 337 for this application?
 
cubdrvr are you experimental or did you do a 337 for your installation? The link was great, but shows only for experimental use. Maybe they don't update the website frequently so I will call for the latest info. Thanks
 
Hi folks --
I know this doesn't help the "certificated" folks -- but I put a $25 Subaru alternator on my Long EZ with an 0-235 and it has worked great for years. 50 amps, internal regulator, simple wiring, --- simple all the way and flawless operation. I just wish "they" would let us do that on our cub series without going experimental. ---- same comments on the simple electronic ignition.
Mark
 
B&C suggests filing a 337 before purchasing. I asked my FAA inspector, who said he'd field approve a B&C without hesitation. Like Crash said, the L-40 with the LR-3 regulator is the hot set-up. Hey Crash, did you go L-40 or the 8 watt gear-drive on the 18?
SB
 
Stewartb answer

Stewart; I went with the L-40 on the PA-18. I ran the load calculations and could not get under the FAA's 80% of load rule with landing lights. The 20 amp vacume pad mount B&C alternator, like I have on the PA-14 is a pain to work around, is $300.00 more and half the output of the L-40 so I just went with the L-40. In my opinion "todays" hot set up for a Cub is the L-40 with LR3 regulator. Crash
 
alternators

I need to bite the bullet and switch to an alternator system on my 150hp sc. I asked my mechanic to put on the B&C L40, but he called back to tell me that it wasn't stc'd yet (in progress no guess on when that will happen). He asked the FAA guy and was basically told, "don't hold your breath waiting for a field approval." I know, it's approved for sc's all the time but this is the east coast not AK.
So, it looks like I need to go the Internav route. My mechanic asked me to find out from you guys if there are any pitfalls to look out for installing the Internav. Specifically, he wants to know if it fits under the cowl ok, or do you need to get creative?
Thanks
Ken
 
The InterAv goes on easy enough. There is some baffle trimming to allow the tension arm boss on the alternator case to poke through the baffle a bit, and most guys add a little doubler to strengthen the baffling at this point....No problem at all there.

A problem I've had with at least three of these InterAv systems, including one on a late model Cub, factory-equipped with the system, is the things going off-line every 15 minutes, or so. On systems with servicable alternators, replacing the overvoltage relay, or substituting a servicable regulator has usually solved the problem.

On mine I've just been cycling the master switch and the alternator will come back on-line.

A friend suggested I remove the overvoltage relay from the system temporarily. The overvoltage relay is NOT a necessary part of the system for operation, except to be compliant with the STC. Actually, an overvoltage warning light would be better. Anyway, removing the overvoltage relay solved my problem.

It's likely that my regulator is set so close to the overvoltage relay cut-out voltage that any slight system voltage spike was knocking the system off-line.

I've had this experience with other a/c, but have had to play the remove and replace game with components to solve their problem. Just a heads-up on what has helped me with my personal a/c.

Consider asking your mechanic to document a deviation from the STC in the form of overvoltage relay removal and installation of an overvoltage warning lamp in the system.

Dave.
 
I have the same proble that Dave described with my Interav system, although infrequent it always seems to happen at the worst possible time (ie short final at night on an unlit runway). I havn't removed my over voltage relay yet but that sounds like a possible solution. Dave can you provide any details on how to switch to an overvoltage light?
 
The solution may be easier. I fought the same problem on my Cessna for years, until John at Fish Creek explained what was happening. You get some corrosion on a terminal, like at the regulator. The regulator senses a voltage drop, and tells the alternator to increase the charge, and the overvolt relay responds by shutting the system down. I solved my problem by cleaning up the contacts, and cutting all the zip ties loose, and re-tying them in slightly different locations, in case a shielded wire was being pinched allowing the shielding to steal some current. I've never had an overvolt shutdown since.
SB
 
The overvoltage light used on later model (post mid-70's) Cessna aircraft is most often controlled by the "I" terminal of the Voltage regulator.

The light illuminates when the "magic" voltage regulator box tells it to. Interesting to note that the overvolt relay on this type system is inside the voltage regulator as opposed to the InterAv's additional external box for the overvolt relay. The early model Cessna's had an external overvoltage "relay"-that little cardboard "tube tyrapped to the wire bundle.

An "overvoltage relay has tripped" light could be installed by just wiring it across the terminals of the overvoltage relay. But, it would allow a small amount of current to continue to "excite" the field.

The simplist way to get an overvolt light in my system would be to install one of the commonly available "overvoltage lights" available from Aircraft Spruce, Chief, or whoever. These things are wired simply between the aircraft's power bus and ground and will sense an overvoltage at the bus and light themselves.

DMC(Dave C.-incognito)
 
Dave,
So if you remove the overvolt relay and add a light, what do you do when the light goes on? Shut the alternator off manually? What gain is there to that? Or is the idea that the overvolt isn't real, and the light won't come on?
SB
 
Yeah, it just puts more control in the pilots hands.

I hate it when I scan on over to the ammeter to notice a discharge, then have to cycle the master.

I'd rather notice a "highvoltage" light and pull the field circuit breaker for a REAL overvolt, that I'll probably never have, instead of cycling the master every 15 minutes I fly as it has been.

My preference. I don't recommend this to anyone. In fact, I recommend you all sell you a/c and take up some other activity.

DMC
 
alternators

One thing not to overlook with the interav( used to be alcor?) the ground reference point for the regulator is where it is attached to the firewall. Corrosion loves to form there, when it loses that ground, it will spike the system.
 
OK, so I bought the Internav and had it installed. Guess what? Its kicking itself offline pretty frequently. Called Internav and was told it must be a problem with my airplane. Sounds to me like they need to make that overvoltage relay kick in a couple off volts higher than they've got it set. So anybody got a solution that doesn't require stripping every piece of existing wire out of the plane, or trying to get a field approval (apparently they are extinct), or becoming an outlaw?
Thanks
Ken
 
I've got the same problem. I'm going to take nanooks advice and make sure the the regulator and overvoltage are well grounded. I'll let you know the results. If any of you guys find a solution let us know.
 
I should know the answer to this question, but I don't. So, HELP!
O-235 Supercub, 12 amp generator, in apparently working condition, with new, fully charged battery. But at idle, voltage goes so low the radio stops working. I know the master relay draws current, and we have an older Narco transponder and Com 122, but it's hard to believe that these are sufficient to pull a good battery below 10 volts. Is it possible that the generator itself is drawing current at engine idle?
We have an O-320 with the same generator, but more modern radios, and it seems to do fine.
Anybody out there have this problem? Any fixes short of fighting the B&C 337 nightmare? (yes, I believe the days of simple 337s are behind us)
 
Bob,
I spoke to Bill at B & C few weeks ago. He said that they would get the STC for the L-40 the day after, so the 337 fighting days should be over by now.

Good luck
 
Generators don't work at low RPM. I had a Clipper with the O-235 and a 20 amp gen. At towered fields I would have to run the rpm up to talk. Inter Av is STC'd alternator. Just installed one with good results.
 
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